Author Topic: Crackington Centipede Restoration Project (Read 17786 times)

rchadd · « **on:** May 16, 2005, 07:50:32 am »

Just purchased this half completed restoration project on ebay.co.uk

I now need to organize means of

rchadd · « **Reply #1 on:** May 16, 2005, 07:51:30 am »

more pics

HoopstarsGarage · « **Reply #2 on:** May 16, 2005, 09:32:28 am »

Nice project..!!

Any chance of a shot of the BACK of the cabinet..?

rchadd · « **Reply #3 on:** May 16, 2005, 10:00:01 am »

Quote from: HoopstarsGarage on May 16, 2005, 09:32:28 am

Nice project..!!

Any chance of a shot of the BACK of the cabinet..?

will post more pics when i have picked it up

AlanS17 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 16, 2005, 12:47:10 pm »

Well that CP is shot. I wouldn't waste my time trying to cover it up. The cab, itself, looks pretty good though!

rchadd · « **Reply #5 on:** May 18, 2005, 12:35:57 pm »

yesterday i saw another centipede machine (caberet style) on ebay.co.uk and contacted the seller on the chance that he might have some parts.

luckilly he has passed me onto another guy in the UK that has:

- perspex bezel with scratch

- blue cardboard monitor surround
- control panel
- leafswitch fire button

its a shame about the bezel being scratched - i thought the bezel would be glass anyway.

he has advised that should be able to polish the scratch out of the perspex. Is that true?

I'm still looking for a trackball and a CPO.... so contact me if you have one!

roast · « **Reply #6 on:** May 19, 2005, 05:39:41 am »

looks like a good project.
you might get the scratch out with jewelers rouge but don't take my word on it lol.hope to see more pics when you start project.

rchadd · « **Reply #7 on:** May 21, 2005, 02:46:52 pm »

Quote from: roast on May 19, 2005, 05:39:41 am

looks like a good project.
you might get the scratch out with jewelers rouge but don't take my word on it lol.hope to see more pics when you start project.

i might just get repro bezel graphics shipped from aradeshop at same time as CPO and the source glass locally here in the UK.

new glass has got to look better than polished out scratched perspex - and no chance of more scratches in the future.

rchadd · « **Reply #8 on:** May 23, 2005, 06:44:55 am »

ordered a 2 1/4" imperial trackball from ebay seller for $49 shipped

rchadd · « **Reply #9 on:** May 31, 2005, 08:04:53 pm »

Quote from: HoopstarsGarage on May 16, 2005, 09:32:28 am

Nice project..!!

Any chance of a shot of the BACK of the cabinet..?

heres some pics

rchadd · « **Reply #10 on:** May 31, 2005, 08:08:16 pm »

HoopstarsGarage · « **Reply #11 on:** May 31, 2005, 08:31:03 pm »

Heehee.. you knew EXACTLY what I wanted a picture of didn't you..!

Thanks for that rchadd

rchadd · « **Reply #12 on:** June 02, 2005, 06:30:09 am »

Quote from: HoopstarsGarage on May 31, 2005, 08:31:03 pm

Heehee.. you knew EXACTLY what I wanted a picture of didn't you..!

rchadd · « **Reply #13 on:** June 05, 2005, 05:03:03 pm »

today i made myself a new paper bezel

i managed to acquire an original one but it was in rather poor state - i had a go at making a replica using posterboard that i purchase from a local art supplies shop.

unfortunately there is not a colour match with the original bezel - wrong shade of blue and matt not glossy. i am thinking that i might try and find a suitable spray paint (gloss royal blue). or i might just leave as it is because it look ok in my opinion - if 100% authentic

i was really surprised how well the bezel came out - i will now have a try at making one for my cocktail cab. much cheaper than a plastic one from happs.

you can see my new coindoor in the background - it looks great but need to get some UK coin mechs and better reject buttons

rchadd · « **Reply #14 on:** June 05, 2005, 05:05:23 pm »

here is the plexi bezel - artwork is good but there are scratches in the plexi that needs to be polished out.

also the original monitor surround - i disassembled it to act as template for my reproduction one

rchadd · « **Reply #15 on:** June 05, 2005, 05:08:00 pm »

here is the back of the original centipede coindoor

currently has 1 & 2 deutsche marck mechs (now defunct coinage) - need to get current UK coinage mechs

has slam switch, lamps and coin counters

Minwah · « **Reply #16 on:** June 05, 2005, 06:37:11 pm »

Good project rchadd, nice to see you are restoring it!

Good luck

OT there is a nicely restored Centipede cab (although running Millipede IIRC) in a nightclub in Brighton, looks like it has repro artwork etc...dunno why I mentioned that, other than because it is unusual to see a classic restored cab in public use nowadays...

rchadd · « **Reply #17 on:** June 06, 2005, 04:33:33 pm »

Quote from: Minwah on June 05, 2005, 06:37:11 pm

Good project rchadd, nice to see you are restoring it!

Good luck

OT there is a nicely restored Centipede cab (although running Millipede IIRC) in a nightclub in Brighton, looks like it has repro artwork etc...dunno why I mentioned that, other than because it is unusual to see a classic restored cab in public use nowadays...

thanks

i always wondered whether there was a demand for classic cabs in pubs and clubs these days. Does it get much use? (or abuse???)

I've got a track and field pcb and was thinking about building a repro 4 player table and approaching a local pub/club owner on 50:50 split basis. figured it might go down well being a competitive group game.

Minwah · « **Reply #18 on:** June 06, 2005, 04:55:45 pm »

Quote from: rchadd on June 06, 2005, 04:33:33 pm

i always wondered whether there was a demand for classic cabs in pubs and clubs these days. Does it get much use? (or abuse???)

I've got a track and field pcb and was thinking about building a repro 4 player table and approaching a local pub/club owner on 50:50 split basis. figured it might go down well being a competitive group game.

I think it got a fair bit of play judging by the hiscore table (there were some good scores on there too). That said I didn't see too many people playing on it, but then I have only been there once!

I reckon any tabletop would go down pretty well in a pub for the right price...I'd love to see a T&F in my local!

rchadd · « **Reply #19 on:** July 02, 2005, 07:41:30 pm »

control panel stripped and primed, painted down sides and around holes that might be visible when cpo fitted with satin black

rchadd · « **Reply #20 on:** July 02, 2005, 07:43:51 pm »

fitted cpo from arcaderenovations.com (fantastic quality and only $30!)

fitted new trackball, fire button and start buttons

looking good

rchadd · « **Reply #21 on:** July 02, 2005, 07:51:41 pm »

purchased complete wiring harness from US after posting message on usegroup rec.games.video.arcade.marketplace

will try and test ar2 power board tomorrow

CJK · « **Reply #22 on:** July 03, 2005, 12:29:24 am »

Keep up the progress reports! I have always wanted a Centipede, and when I finish my current cab, I might just pick up a "project" like yours! (Definitely more affordable than buying a restored or reproduction one!)

-- Chris

tbombaci · « **Reply #23 on:** July 03, 2005, 02:28:31 am »

Could you post a low res scan of the blue bezel? I would like to make one as well but I am having trouble finding a source to copy.

Thanks!
-Tom

rchadd · « **Reply #24 on:** July 03, 2005, 08:45:42 am »

Quote from: tbombaci on July 03, 2005, 02:28:31 am

Could you post a low res scan of the blue bezel?

rchadd · « **Reply #25 on:** July 03, 2005, 01:14:01 pm »

here is a photo of the bezel

here are the measurements. sorry dont have anything to measure the angles. if you want amy other measurements please let me know.

note that you need to score the card either on the front or the back in certain places in order for it to fold correctly to give required shape. pay attention to photo above for idea on how it should look.

A=56.5cm
B=54cm
C=19cm
D=49.5cm
E=16.5cm
F=16.5cm
G=4.5cm
H=56cm
i=54cm
J=16.5cm
K=49.5cm
L=19cm
M=19cm
N=12cm
P=14.3cm
Q=8cm
R=14.3cm

tbombaci · « **Reply #26 on:** July 03, 2005, 03:00:13 pm »

Thank you very much!

-Tom

tbombaci · « **Reply #27 on:** July 04, 2005, 12:25:23 am »

Could you measure the length on the inside corners? (the edge that is against the tube)

I guess it would be from the bottom of "L" to the bottom of "J", etc... With this measurement, I can get the correct angle. Also, I am assuming the lip is 2.75cm with the exception of the long lip that is 4.5cm.

Thanks again for all your help. For some reason, I just can't bring myself to buy the Arcadeshop repro!!

-Tom

rchadd · « **Reply #28 on:** July 04, 2005, 07:10:41 pm »

Quote from: tbombaci on July 04, 2005, 12:25:23 am

Could you measure the length on the inside corners? (the edge that is against the tube)

I guess it would be from the bottom of "L" to the bottom of "J", etc...

rchadd · « **Reply #29 on:** July 04, 2005, 07:11:46 pm »

fitted control panel and coin door

CJK · « **Reply #30 on:** July 04, 2005, 08:27:02 pm »

Wow -- looks great!!! It looks like your coin door might need a coat of paint, though. (Unless that's just the lighting in the photos.)

-- Chris

rchadd · « **Reply #31 on:** July 05, 2005, 06:29:17 am »

Quote from: CJK on July 04, 2005, 08:27:02 pm

Wow -- looks great!!! It looks like your coin door might need a coat of paint, though. (Unless that's just the lighting in the photos.)

-- Chris

its a rare stainless silver one! it needs polishing though

HoopstarsGarage · « **Reply #32 on:** July 05, 2005, 11:57:47 am »

Quote from: rchadd on July 05, 2005, 06:29:17 am

its a rare stainless silver one! it needs polishing though

Come to Australia.. there are stacks of them here - not sure why tho..?

Looks bloody awesome too btw..!!!

CJK · « **Reply #33 on:** July 05, 2005, 07:39:21 pm »

Quote from: rchadd on July 05, 2005, 06:29:17 am

its a rare stainless silver one! it needs polishing though

Wow -- that's cool! I don't ever remember coming across one of those! (But then, I was more concerned about playing the games in those dark arcades than in looking at the coin doors...)

-- Chris

rchadd · « **Reply #34 on:** July 10, 2005, 01:07:12 pm »

i just been testing my ebay untested AR2 board and happily it all seems to be working

rchadd · « **Reply #35 on:** July 10, 2005, 04:05:42 pm »

connected up the game board and tested the voltages

here are the readings

test point = reading
+5V = 5.10
+22V = 25.6
-22V = -25.9
-15V = -15.0
-30V = -26.8
-5V = -5.17
+12V = 12.32

not sure if these are ok (within acceptable range)

havent connected up to a monitor yet so unable to figure out if it is working ok

SuperGunGuru · « **Reply #36 on:** July 10, 2005, 04:19:09 pm »

You could try to tweak some of those adjustments to get them closer. The -30 that's only a -26.8 on your machine may be ok. Those numbers kinda bother me but I'm sure someone else will know for sure.

babydickonboard · « **Reply #37 on:** July 14, 2005, 12:17:16 am »

looks like your psu and boards could use a bit of a cleaning, and i would try to get the voltages as close as possible to what there supposed to be with a load on the psu.

HoopstarsGarage · « **Reply #38 on:** July 14, 2005, 04:45:20 am »

Those readings (under load) don't seem to bad but I would, as matter of course, replace all the electrolytic caps on the PSU board as they most likely be dried out by now..

The most important voltage is the +5 volt rail which can be adjusted via AR2.

rchadd · « **Reply #39 on:** July 19, 2005, 08:21:25 am »

Ripped out the jamma wiring/psu that was installed in the machine by previous owner.

Fitted the transformer, PSU and Game boards. Started to rewire using 100% complete wiring loom.


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