Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: SirPeale on January 31, 2010, 09:16:48 pm
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I'm working on a 25K7000 series. I'm fairly certain the CSC is bad, as well as D18.
What are the parts and values for these? In addition, C36 and C38? Figure to pick up several of each to have on hand.
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Schematic is here:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Wells%20Gardner%2025K7191.pdf (http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Wells%20Gardner%2025K7191.pdf)
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What kind of diode is @ D18?
Looks like C36 and C38 are polypropylene general purpose caps @ 200V?
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That schematic had values missing from it. This manual shows them.
http://dosmame.mameworld.info/images/other/wg-k7000.pdf (http://dosmame.mameworld.info/images/other/wg-k7000.pdf)
Page 13. Still don't know what kind of diode D18 is.
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Is this acceptable for C36? LINK (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/BFC238350622/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvCt%252bwg%252braTupkFHBUhDp%252b8JuLvY7ZtLBs%3d)
It's 6200 instead of 6100, but I can't find the 6100 on Mouser.
=http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/BFC238320394/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvCt%252bwg%252braTuuxZALPKPUSzP7Wi2C9CfsM%3dC38 (http://=http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/BFC238320394/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvCt%252bwg%252braTuuxZALPKPUSzP7Wi2C9CfsM%3dC38)?
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Bump. Want to place an order for parts very soon.
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C36: .0036 uf @ 1600 volts Polypropylene (Vishay # 715P332516LD3 is close enough)
C38: .39 uf @ 200 volt Polypropylene (Vishay # 715P33452MD3 is close enough)
C69: .0061 uf @ 1600 volts Polypropylene (Vishay # 715P682516LD3 is close enough)
D18: Sanyo # GFE10R substitute NTE558
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Is there a non-NTE sub?
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And thanks for those numbers...they're way off the values I was looking at.
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Is there a non-NTE sub?
The NTE number is the only thing I've found that will sub for the original. Otherwise, you have to order the original diode from Wells-Gardner's parts department.
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I see some references to that diode on a different WG monitor (P717 board, K2193 and K2391) also accepting a Sanyo DFH10TR. Given the part number similarity, it may or may not be another name for the same part and may or may not be a direct cross in this application as I can't find a datasheet for a GFE10R.
The DFH10TR is an ultrafast 1500V diode. The Vishay BYS459 series looks pretty close, but the package is a much larger TO-220. You should be able to leadform it to fit, though, unless vertical height is very limited in that area of the board.
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What about this (http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/ROHM-Semiconductor/1N4004AT-82/?qs=4kLU8WoGk0vIzJJ7IDI8EQ%3d%3d)?
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That's only a 400V diode, and the reverse recovery time is also probably way too long (1N400x series is pretty much only suitable for use at 50/60Hz).
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The high speed diode is a must. 1N400x is only standard speed and won't work in this application.
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those diodes are a pain to try and source originals.... I've had mixed results with the NTE ones. sometimes they are fine...sometimes within a month they're blown again.
but ken is right, you need a high speed fast switching diode, like a cheetah eating Superman...and then the Flash killing that cheetah and drinking it's blood kind of fast.
okay maybe not that fast.
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That's only a 400V diode, and the reverse recovery time is also probably way too long (1N400x series is pretty much only suitable for use at 50/60Hz).
How much voltage are we talking here?
Ultra Fast Recovery Diode (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Taiwan-Semiconductor/MUR440/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtEwUVCuofpuCGjuOaS4rFtLVjo0EpIdAs%3d)
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They are 1500v 1 AMP forward voltage 1.5v
and the reverse recovery time we are talking about is 0.3 MICROsecond (µs)
0.3 microseconds is 300 nanoseconds. so 50 nanoseconds would do it, but you need more voltage
like i said..... Diodes > Cheetah > Superman > The Flash
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The NTE558 is far cheaper @ MCM than @ Mouser.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/NTE558 (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/NTE558)
I've got to get some other things there as well, so I'm tossing it on the pile.
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ya you could give those a try, but like i said, i personally haven't had the greatest of experiences with NTC parts...most times they work great but some parts work for a few months then they're done gone again.
it appears they meet or exceed the original parts, so give em' a shot, and let us know how they work out in the long run too.
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I'd be happy to use OEM parts, but I'm not going to pay WG prices for them. If Ken thinks these are the ones to use, I trust his judgment.
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I'm not going to pay WG prices for them
+1
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Question: I know that newer K7000s have two caps in place of the 1 CSC, are they both the same cap? I don't have mine here to look at it.
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You should be able to place one in there and jump the wires forward to the next hole. (The original cap the 2 wires on the short side of the cap are connected together.)
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You should be able to place one in there and jump the wires forward to the next hole. (The original cap the 2 wires on the short side of the cap are connected together.)
That's not my question - I know on the older K7000s the CSC was a specialized component. Newer K7000s have /two/ caps there - are they both the same cap?
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The 25" k7000 might have two seperate caps at that location especially on a P538 main board. One will be C69 which is 6100 pf. The other is C36 which is 3600 pf.