Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: crashwg on January 29, 2010, 10:57:05 pm
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Following (mostly) Jim's book that he posted about (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97891.0), I'm going to try my hand a building a CNC machine.
The book is extremely informative and combined with the forums they have (RIGHT HERE in case you are wondering) (http://www.buildyourtools.com/forum/) I thing I should be able to get this done with not much trouble.
I will warn you all now that this will most certainly be a slow build. In order to keep the wife from blowing a gasket things will have to be purchased a little at a time.
So here's what I've done so far:
I picked up a 4x8 sheet of MDF that the Home Depot employee was so kind to cut into 4 pieces for me. For some reason one of the pieces seems to be warping much more than the others. I am going to try and cut the smallest pieces of the CNC from that piece.
I started to lay out the cuts today and even did a little cutting which sucked very much since the wind chill was below zero today. Unfortunately I screwed some stuff up so I'm abandoning the straight edge and circular saw to use my father-in-law's table saw on Sunday.
I've ordered: Bearings for the bearing rail assemblies and for the lead screws. The couplings to join the lead screws to the motors. The "cross dowels" and some hex head bolts to go into them. The plans of course call for pan head machine screws but I like the idea of being able to crank down on the bolts which is something that might be a problem with the philips heads.
I have spent $135
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That's going to be one of the coolest projects :notworthy:. Ive been thinking about taking my cabinet to a shop with a cnc machine to make one the absolutely flawless. I can't wait to see your progress post pics of progress please when your ready. :cheers:
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This is on my radar for next year. I am in the process of trying to find a different job in order to work closer to where I live in order to free up some 'me time' for stuff like this.
I'll be following your progress with great interest, good luck!
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Good luck with this. I built mine a year ago and must say it is the most satisfying project to date. However, it is also the most frustrating. I don't know how many times I have thrown my hands up and slammed the garage door behind me in disgust! There is a learning curve for sure, the build is the easy part. Have fun! :cheers:
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That is a cool project.
How much do you think it will cost to do all that?
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Jim (the books author) claims it can be done for less than $800 and some other people who have built it have reported doing it for less than $700. I'm hoping to keep it as cheap as possible of course.
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Whaoa.
*Santoro watches this space*
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I got a chance to use the in-law's table saw this weekend. Now all the pieces are cut to width. He didn't have the t-square for the table saw so I'll be going back over there next weekend at which time he will have borrowed his boss' compound miter saw which should make short work of cutting everything to length.
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Nice. Like others, I am watching this build with great anticipation. I've watched the videos up on their site and like mountain said, it looks like building it isn't too terribly difficult. But then again, those pro golfers make that game look easy too. :laugh2:
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Me and my brother-in-law made a cnc machine a few years back (http://melarky.com/?page_id=351 (http://melarky.com/?page_id=351)), it's been great (really is a fun project to build and even funner to use after it's built). Someone just asked me where we got all of our CNC info and parts and I sent him an e-mail, I'll post the contents here in case it can help anyone else as well:
http://www.cnczone.com/ (http://www.cnczone.com/) - The forums here is where you'll probably want to start. Just go register (it's free) and cruise around, the people here are friendly and there is tons of good advice and tips etc... It's been a while since I checked on this site for plans, but when I was looking before, there was a user named Joe that had popular diy plans for a wood machine, called something like "Joes 2006 Design" or something like that.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ (http://www.mcmaster.com/) - I'm sure you know about these guys already, but this is where we got much of our linear motion stuff (ball screws, pillow blocks, couplers, etc...). Pretty spendy, but you can't beat their quality. Also, our original (and expensive) couplers from mcmastercarr pooped out on us. We didn't line our rods and motors up quite close enough that it created quite a bit of wear and tare on the couplers and they ultimately didn't hold up. My cousin who made a machine as well found some couplers at some industrial place close to his house (he's up in Canada so I don't know the name of it). He said the place sold tractors and such, and they just had them in stock, he sent us those and they have held up WAY better. Doesn't show any wear and have run them much harder than the others.
http://igus.com/ (http://igus.com/) - We tried some linear motion stuff from these guys (they had some ceramic bearings, the pillow blocks were metal, but the inserts instead of being ball bearing were ceramic tiles kind of, sounded great in theory, but we have since replaced them with ball bearings, the ceramic worked great if the rods were greased, but the sawdust created by the machine would land on the grease and soak it up, so the bearings would stutter too much, ball bearings just need to be cleaned out every once in a while when they get packed with crud, but run much smoother). We also got some cable carriers and stuff like that to clean the machine up from these guys, but not a total necessity.
http://www.vxb.com/ (http://www.vxb.com/) - We got our hardened steel rods from these guys, and I think we may have gotten some other linear motion stuff from them (possibly some pillowblocks etc...). They have been fine, no complaints. I think I found them through ebay, so I was a little unsure, but if I recall, they shipped quickly and their stuff has been good.
http://www.hobbycnc.com/ (http://www.hobbycnc.com/) - This is the place where we got our first board and motor kit, it was good high quality with good documentation, we just quickly outgrew it. There site is different now and it looks like their offering is better now, but just click on their "CNC Packages" link and they have board/motor combos there. I see they sell plans for router tables there, but I wouldn't bother if it were me, that cnczone.com site has tons of plans for free and they are probably comparable.
http://www.vectric.com/ (http://www.vectric.com/) - This is the software that I mostly use to create my g-code, just can't beat the simplicity of their stuff, I really like it. My bro-in-law used to work as a machinist and knows mastercam really well, but has almost completely switched over to this software now (unless he needs something super accurate, but even still, you can do accurate machining with the vcarve stuff). I haven't used their new "Aspire" software, we use the suite of programs V-carve, Photo V-carve, and 3DCut.
http://www.machsupport.com/ (http://www.machsupport.com/) - This is the site for the controller software that we are using. We have the Mach3 software (we started with Mach2, worked great, but Mach3 is much nicer). They have other options out there, but this was a nice economical option that just works well. You'll obviously need a computer to run this on.
http://www.homeshopcnc.com/ (http://www.homeshopcnc.com/) - This is where we ended up getting out bigger stepper motors. They also sell the geckodriver boards through their shop, and by themselves they about the same as everywhere else, but I contacted the guy before we purchased and got him to throw us a deal for buying the driver boards and motors all at the same time (I don't think he gave us a huge discount, but it was still better than no discount). The motors have been rock solid and we've been very happy with them.
http://2linc.com/ (http://2linc.com/) - This is a nice place to get bits. They have both end mills and v bits, and we have gotten both from them. They have great prices, ship quickly, and the quality has been good. The 1/8" bits are cheaper, and so I tend to like those more (plus you can fit your parts closer together on your tool paths with a smaller bit). Just need to have a rotozip adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/Roto-Zip-Roto-Zip-Chuck-Adapter/dp/B0000TIFOY (http://www.amazon.com/Roto-Zip-Roto-Zip-Chuck-Adapter/dp/B0000TIFOY) - This is the 1/4" to 1/8" adapter mentioned in the section above. I would just go to Lowes and pick it up though, I don't remember how much it was, but I don't think it was much (maybe a little more than the site, but no shipping etc...). It works awesome and has helped a ton.
http://mtm.cba.mit.edu/machines/mtm_az/index.html (http://mtm.cba.mit.edu/machines/mtm_az/index.html) - just saw this on a blog, kind of on the small side, but he gives you all of the needed materials plus the DXF or shopbot files to cut your machine out (fun desktop sized machine).
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First picture!
Here's pieces A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H,I,J,K,L,M,N,O,P,Q,R,S cut to their proper widths but not to length as I explained three posts up.
Pieces T,U,V,W,X were not cut because they were not on the cut grouping layout in the book like I had assumed they were. Y and Z are what the X-axis table consists of and measure 24x49. Yep, I said 49... For those who don't work with MDF a whole lot, it comes in a standard size of 49x97 (1 inch over 4x8 in each direction) because, well I don't really know for sure but I would assume to have something to cut off when the edges are damaged in shipping.
Sunday I will hopefully be cutting every piece A-X to it's finished dimension. After that I'll have to get my hands on a 45° chamfering bit for my router to move much further. Harbor Freight has one for less than a dollar believe it or not but the shipping is something like six dollars so that's kinda frustrating. I'll have to find some additional stuff to make the shipping worth it.
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any update on this project ?
;)
I'm thinking about one.... although I would like to build one that can handle a 4 x 8 if possible....
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Cash flow issues. :'( Will be a month or two before I can make any more purchases...
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Like I said, this project is going to take a while! It's actually taking a bit longer (at least between updates) than I had originally hoped but c'est la vie.
In the first picture you'll see all the tools I've bought specifically for this project. Costing nearly $100 for the lot of it, it is certainly adding it's cost to the project. Fortunately it's all stuff that I would have liked to buy eventually although I probably would not have bought a 'SKIL' brand router bit nor the single 7/16ths drill bit that cost $7.77.
The second picture is an overview of the state of the project. Yep, it's standing on it's own two legs, hooray!
The third picture highlights the profile of the edges of the table. As you can see, there is a 45° chamfer on the top and the bottom to make a 90° for the aluminum angle (resting on the table) to fit against. Soon it will be bolted on and will act as the rails for the gantry ride in the X-Axis. It will look something like the fourth picture which is just me (and the wall) holding the aluminum angle on.
Funny story about the aluminum angle. Well maybe not funny so much as a ridiculous example of how much you pay for the convenience of a big box store... Following the book, the table's dimensions are 49" long because MDF comes oversized and you might as well get all the travel you can get out of the thing right? So I made it that way. Then I head out to get the aluminum angle from Home Depot and wouldn't you know, the only size they have it in is an 8 ft length. So if I cut that in half, I'll get 2 - 48" pieces leaving a half inch on each end not covered by the aluminum which wouldn't be the end of the world but I had already drilled the holes that will attach the aluminum to the MDF and they would be right at the tips of the aluminum and I figured that wouldn't work so well. Did I mention the aluminum was $30? So the other option from HD was two pieces for $60! Calling on my days as a purchasing agent for a company that worked in metal, I called up the local supplier and asked for a quote. They said they couldn't sell me just the two 49" pieces but I would have to buy a whole 20 ft stick and they'd cut off the pieces I need and I would take them and the "drop." Price, $30! So now I've got the pieces I need plus a ~12 ft leftover. Maybe the next revision will have a 6 ft table?!?
The last picture is of the Y-Axis (bottom), the Y-Axis reinforcement (with the holes) which will be bolted to the Y-Axis, and the Z-Axis on top. As you'll notice, there's some more chamferred edges for some aluminum angle. I'll be calling up my local metal supplier when I get to that part (it's a different size of aluminum angle.)
Oh yea, and I picked up the first piece of the dust collection system... While I was out looking for the forstner bits that I ultimately bought at Lowes, I couldn't resist the 50% off of the shop vac that I picked up at Sears. It's from Sears' new "evolv" line and it's a fairly small one at only 9 gallon capacity and 8.2A but I think it'll get the job done once I put a cyclonic separator in line with it. Heck, it was only $30 so worst case scenario it will be used for cleaning the car... It's also helping me keep the "play room" clean while I'm working on this project. You see, I friggin hate bringing projects in and out of the apartment all the time so I set up shop in my children's play room and put a closed sign on the door for a couple weeks. I drill a few holes then vacuum up, drill a few more... You get it. It takes a bit longer but I'm checking measurements ten times before I drill a hole anyway so in the scheme of things it's not taking too much longer.
So don't be surprised if there's no more updates for a month or so. Money is tight (heck I sold my bass guitar to afford the progress I made these past weeks.) Believe me, nobody wants this project to be done sooner. As much fun as it is to build it, I'm looking forward to a time when it helps me build instead.
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To anyone who was looking forward to the completion of this project I'm sorry it's been taking so long. Believe me, no one wants it done sooner than myself.
This "update" could have been posted a few months ago but wasn't/isn't all that important of an update.
I found the brains to the CNC machine sitting next to a dumpster. If I had to guess why it was there I'd go with the power supply being switched to 240v and the original owner (a recent refugee immigrant judging by the pictures I found on the HDD) couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work.
I don't remember the specs off the top of my head but it's something under 1ghz with 256megs or less of ram. Everything was working right after I switched the power supply back to 120v and a fresh install of TinyXP handles pretty well.
I installed the Mach3 and ran a test on the system and it passed with flying colors so I think I should do alright with it.
I'm not sure it would have passed the test without it's new paint job though, what do you think?
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A more recent update (just started today as a matter of fact) is that I'm building it's home in a closet in my bedroom. Boy is the wife excited!
Here's the current state of that part of the project.
Construction is 2x3s with 3" screws holding everything together. I plan on lining the top of the joists with some foam before installing the deck to attempt to isolate sound as much as possible.
As you can see I wasted no time filling in the space under the shelf and even putting most of the CNC machine's parts on the unfinished shelf.
I plan on getting most of what's missing of the project with my tax return so hopefully updates will come quicker in the months to come!
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I received the electronics today. This was by far the largest purchase that will have been made to complete this project. The total (incl. $27 shipping) was $433!
I've set up a little test area on my kitchen table and connected everything as it should be only I'm only using 1 motor (and motor controller) and I'm keeping the wires short seeing as though this is only a test...
As far as I can tell everything is working as it should. When I plug it all in the stepper motor jumps a tiny bit and then holds strong so that I cannot turn it manually.
Unfortunately I'm a complete idiot and I cut one end off of the parallel cable I bought from Goodwill a couple months back. I don't know why I thought I needed to wire that manually but whatever, I guess I'll have to keep my eyes out for another!
Here's a pic of my test setup. From left to right, power supply - breakout board - stepper motor driver - stepper motor
p.s.
Sorry about the picture quality. I can't seem to find the camera so I used the webcam on my netbook...
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I know you're already buying, but for others that might be looking at building their own...
I converted my Sherline mill to CNC using a 3 axis kit from http://www.xylotex.com/ (http://www.xylotex.com/). Mine is several years old, but I have been very pleased with the results.
For doing full sheets of ply or MDF, my coworker and I have been looking at http://www.mechmate.com/ (http://www.mechmate.com/). Lots of VERY cool Mechmates have been built.
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The total is now $649 in parts. I believe the total for the tools I've had to purchase is still about $90. I still have to get a router ($100 +/-) and the lead screws which are just going to be 1/2" threaded rod for now. I think I'll be up and running with that.
A couple things that are planned but not essential are an enclosure for the electronics and a cyclonic separator.
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Things are coming together now, albeit not as fast as I would like. I had a couple days to work on this and have made some progress. I'm working on it in a relative's woodshop that is not very well organized so that has significantly slowed things down. Add to that not having a few things I needed requiring me to make some trips to the hardware store and you'll understand why I'm a little frustrated. Oh and my wife just told me she needs the car today so I can't work on it right now! :hissy:
Anyway, here's what it looked like before I left last night. It now can be pushed in the X-axis and goes rather smoothly I might add. The Y-axis is next. Currently it's just held there with a clamp but it too travels nicely. I'm getting excited! Provided nobody snipes the parallel cable I currently winning on ebay I think I'll have movement in two weeks or so!
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Provided nobody snipes the parallel cable I currently winning on ebay I think I'll have movement in two weeks or so!
If not, there's always Monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10212&cs_id=1021201&p_id=1592&seq=1&format=2) (I picked a DB25 M/F cable at random, search Monoprice if that's not what you need).
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I got the parallel port cable today and here's the first test! I still only have the one stepper hooked up. The stepper "hisses" when power is applied and I'm waiting on verification that that's normal before I hook up any more.
Stepper First Movement (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGM7C7PiWJg#)
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I got the confirmation that the noise I was hearing is normal so I went ahead and hooked up the other two steppers. Here's a video of me running my very first G-Code on the electronics!
All 3 Steppers Going (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbzHL-UPzj4#)
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For those more interested in the non-electronics, here's the current state of the table.
X & Y Moving By Hand (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhROibFVn8s#)
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I love the sounds! It's looking great!
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wow!
awesome project! :applaud:
sorry if i missed this part, but what ya gonna build when it's done???
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what ya gonna build when it's done???
I have plans to build a couple bar top arcade machines, a fancy wooden sign and some holiday decorations so far. I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to producing G-Code though so who knows how long it will be before I produce anything!
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I'm almost done!
So I've been able to put in a respectable amount of time on this project lately and have made some good progress. The "mechanics" would have been complete tonight if I had remembered to pick up some bolts that I need on the way home. ::) All that's left to do is attach the motors to the lead-screws and wiring for it to be a functioning CNC machine!
To be honest I have mixed emotions on coming to an end with this project. The closer I get to completing it the more I dislike the design. There is definitely room for improvement, that's for sure. Hopefully it will be accurate enough to use to cut the parts for my second go. Yep, already thinking about upgrading! :P Don't tell my wife. ;)
Here's the current state of affairs.
Z-Axis Moving (Drill Power!) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuRPrEm516A#)
Y-Axis Moving (Powered by Dewalt) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKEwX3UbjrE#)
X-Axis coming at ya. (Powered with drill still) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_a9VviQj4vw#)
First Cut (Sorta) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uFmXGSFc48#)
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Looks good!
I gotta make one now..
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Looks awesome! Even though I purchased a CarveWright recently, I'm already planning for my CNC machine. I'm planning a large footprint system - with a cutting area of 48" x 96" - and judging by the interest in your project, I'll be certain to post it up here as well!
I really like the way everything came together! Congratulations.
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This is really cool.
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Crash did you put any grease or lubricant on the lead screw?
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@crashwg - i plan on building one sometime in the near future, what dont you like about the design of yours?
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Crash did you put any grease or lubricant on the lead screw?
Yes, Du Pont - Teflon - Multi-Use - Dry, Wax Lubricant
@crashwg - i plan on building one sometime in the near future, what dont you like about the design of yours?
The only adjustment you can make to most of the machine is "cut a little more off" and "add a washer as a spacer." The dowel nuts have an off-center hole which causes them to crush the MDF on one side when you tighten them. The nuts on the lead-screws are attached in a way that when you tighten them the bolts/nuts that hold them in place get in the way of the lead screw. I'm sure I could think if more...
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The stepper motors are now attached and after extending the wires with what I had lying around I officially have a working CNC machine!
Once the hardware was buttoned up a little software configuration was in store and after an oversight of a misplaced decimal all seems to be working as designed. The first thing I cut was a square by manually inputting the coordinates into the CAM software. After that I opened one of the files that come with Mach3 which is a 2D Roadrunner design. For some reason the code stopped mid way which has not been solved as of right now. Here's the usual videos and pictures:
First Computer Controlled Movement (jogging) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkNKG4UIKRw#)
First Computer Controlled Cut (manually entering coordinates) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1NGyJk4A90#)
First G-Code Cut (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j72_d-C0bzM#)
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Crash if you are using the demo version of mach3 it will only do 500 lines of gcode.... :)
heres a picture of the small and large machines i am working on..:)
had to stop for the winter sorry about the junk in the garage..
(http://)
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Crash if you are using the demo version of mach3 it will only do 500 lines of gcode.... :)
I was thinking that might be the case although I would have expected some sort of popup window saying "hey dummy, if you want to finish your project, buy the full version."
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ummm i learned the same way i thought mach3 was broken then asked that question...
but i asked it in a forum that just does cnc....boy did i get told to read the manual lol!!
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crashwg - load it up again and look at mach, there is a line counter on there.
Good job on the machine. swaggs over at CNCzone wrote a break-in wizard for mach3. It will generate gcode that will run the machine back and forth for hours. Very useful.
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crashwg - load it up again and look at mach, there is a line counter on there.
Good job on the machine. swaggs over at CNCzone wrote a break-in wizard for mach3. It will generate gcode that will run the machine back and forth for hours. Very useful.
Yep, line counter reads 490 something.
Why would one want to "break-in" a CNC machine?
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It will wear in all the mechanical parts(also spread the lubricant) also will let you see if there is some binding since the wear-in program should make so many repetitions through the complete x y z movement of the machine multiple times!
After you run the program and it wears in the parts then you should check for any slop or parts that wore them self loose ..(these are just some of the possible reasons there are more)..
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Seems like a cool project.
CNC DIY kits are about 100$-200$ here in China, for the dumb ones (i.e. they don't know where they are position wise).
eg http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=7104378566 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=7104378566)
I'm guessing yours has positioning then so the motors know where they are, is that why its so more expensive?
Mach3 controllers are relatively cheap, depending what inputs you need - 100rmb ish for parallel, 500rmb ish if you use USB.
How many I/O ports are you using?
What stepper motors are you using? the standard 57 ones?
You can get USB controllers for Mach3 here in China cheap too, which may be of interest to you.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=219645281 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=219645281) (20$) basic
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=8826548289 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=8826548289) (50$) basic with encoder
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=8710079043 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=8710079043) (180$) wireless one
I've been looking at the laser based CNC's a little, but haven't jumped in yet.
I might order the little cheap PVC based CNC. Would be cool for doing control panels.
Also, what did you think of the book? Amazon reviews slated it.
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Seems like a cool project.
Thanks, I'm pretty excited about it. Now all I have to do is decide what program to use to create the G-Code and learn how to use it!
CNC DIY kits are about 100$-200$ here in China, for the dumb ones (i.e. they don't know where they are position wise).
eg http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=7104378566 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=7104378566)
That looks like a pretty good deal. A lot smaller than mine though. The cutting area on that looks to be about 6" x 12" or so. I haven't measured mine yet but I think it's around 18" x 38". The one in your link is most likely used for engraving small parts and PCB work.
I'm guessing yours has positioning then so the motors know where they are, is that why its so more expensive?
If I understand correctly, my machine is "dumb". Provided that my stepper motors don't "lose steps" it knows where it is but if it does lose any steps there is no feedback to tell the system. As for the price, I'll post a breakdown here soon.
How many I/O ports are you using?
What stepper motors are you using? the standard 57 ones?
Currently I'm only using 6 I/Os. Each stepper requires 1 step pin and 1 direction pin. The breakout board I'm using (C10 from kelinginc.com) has 15 I/Os. I still have to install limit switches (1 series for 1 input) and 1 touch plate for zeroing the tool. Other than that I don't even know what I'm going to do with the rest of the inputs. I'm considering where to install the E-Stop currently but I'm thinking the safest place to put it would be on the power line that feeds the motors...
You can get USB controllers for Mach3 here in China cheap too, which may be of interest to you.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=219645281 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=219645281) (20$) basic
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=8826548289 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=8826548289) (50$) basic with encoder
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=8710079043 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=8710079043) (180$) wireless one
Interesting indeed. The $50 I think would suit my needs the best. Most of that page is unreadable to me though. Assuming you can read the rest of the page, does it explain why it has USB and RS232 connections?
Also, what did you think of the book? Amazon reviews slated it.
I can't totally dismiss it, heck I have a working CNC machine because of it. The design is not great. There were many times during the construction when I would get frustrated that parts wouldn't go together well as I had hoped. There's no adjustability in the design. There's no bill of materials. There are a few areas in the book that are either missing or the wrong information is given. It has been said by many that the book is more of an account of the authors build rather than an instruction manual (even though it is sold as the later.) To sum up, you need to be of above average intelligence to complete this project with the instructions in the book.
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Thanks for the detailed replies!
Yes, the cheap kits are aimed at people doing PCB stuff. The better ones are aluminium based and have larger footprints (and cost slightly more - usually in the 2000rmb range for DIY'ers)
You could add a rotation bed also for rotating the piece being CNC'd
eg to rotate the piece around in its Y axis, or in the Z axis.
The Y axis ones are usually referred to as A axis
eg http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=6351134199 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=6351134199)
That controller says uses USB for power 5v, and serial for the connection.
They're made for Mach3 mainly, so works with that. I haven't tried them out yet. Quite a few people selling them, so I guess they seem to work, as lots of people seem happy in the comments for the shops.
You need the IO mods - Mach3 ModIO ( http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php?board=35.0 (http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php?board=35.0) )
http://www.google.com/translate (http://www.google.com/translate) is semi decent for translation - may need to cut n paste though.
Here are another 2 options for controllers.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=2335203490 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=2335203490) - rotation one.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=7372477262 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=7372477262) - has english explanation (I like the big red emergency stop button!, those definitely need to be part of ANY cnc build ;) )
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I'm producing G-Code on my own now!
One program (I'm not even sure program is the right term but whatever) I actually just typed out in a text editor. What I was doing was attaching a "spoil" board to the bed of the machine so that any mishaps that may occur would mess up the spoil board which could be replaced once it's real bad. So I would manually enter the coordinates of the hole then run my program which would make a dimple to locate the screws.
The other stuff I've done I used ArtCAM to make. I'm really just trying everything I can find to see what might work for me... The attached pictures are what ArtCAM let me do with an hour or so of fiddling with all the controls it has to offer. Honestly I have no idea what I'm doing. :P As you'll see in the first picture one of my axes was backwards but I swapped it to cut what you see in the second picture which is colored like it is in an attempt to make it stand out more. After a successful test of the G-Code produced by ArtCAM I produced what you see in the third picture. Originally I was going to go with my last name but Mach3's 500 lines of G-Code trial only got me 4.5 letters in to the 6 letters. ::) Sooooo I figured it would be able to handle "Will" (my first name, well, technically it's William but I'm sure that would have gone over 500 lines) and decided to cut that.
Mach3's trial limitations are really putting a damper on getting into this whole CNC thing for sure. I'm considering switching to EMC2 (which is for linux which I know nothing about) because it's free and there's no way I can afford $175 for Mach3 after the $700 some-odd I've put into building the machine... I've already downloaded the live Ubuntu/EMC2 disc and will be trying it out tomorrow.
P.S.
The gouge in the second "test" next to the "E" is user error. I forgot to turn the router on! :P Fortunately I didn't screw the board down so the machine kinda just dragged it out of my hand instead of breaking something.
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So far so good with Linux and EMC2! It was relatively easy to set up, the only problem I had with setup was when I was programming how many steps per inch were required, the machine would go twice as far as I was expecting. It turned out that it was traveling the correct distance then when it went the other way it would go the correct distance times two leading me to believe that it was going for instance -1" to +1" when I entered 1 inch as the distance I wanted it to travel. A confusing setting to say the least. I figured I'd skip that setting for the time being and if things were double sized that I would fix it later but everything seems to be cutting the correct size so all is well.
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First arcade related cut. :P Well, it has no particular value to the hobby but I wanted to see how cutting some 3D stuff would go so I downloaded a monochrome picture of the coin and used that to make this. Keep in mind the only ball end bit that I have is 1/8 and even with the design being enlarged to 4" in diameter there's only so much detail it can produce. This is a single pass and took 1 hour.
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Wow! This is really impressive work for less than two months effort. Good job!
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Wow! This is really impressive work for less than two months effort. Good job!
While if you were to remove all the time that I wasn't working on this project it would certainly have fit into two months, I started the build in Jan 2010. Thanks anyways. The book isn't perfect but until something better comes along (i.e. the design they're planing here (http://www.hightechdiy.com/)) I would have to recommend the book to anyone who wants a CNC machine of this size and doesn't think they could design one themselves.
I'm having a blast seeing what this thing is capable of. I'm definitely limited by my designing skills right now though. Most CAM software has a fairly steep learning curve although I think I've found one of the least steep with ArtCAM. I also need to get some proper end mills. Right now I'm using some cheap, old router bits that I got from my brother in law that he got from his grampie's basement when he passed away years ago.
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Now you can use the machine to build an even better Cnc machine :)
Now that's the problem lol!
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Am impressed with the output - well done!
Guess once I've finished the arcade machine I'm almost finished building, I'll have a go at making a CNC.
Would be cool to design one in CAD and have a machine do all the cutting for me ;D
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Am impressed with the output - well done!
Guess once I've finished the arcade machine I'm almost finished building, I'll have a go at making a CNC.
Would be cool to design one in CAD and have a machine do all the cutting for me ;D
If all the parts fit within my cutting envelope I might be able to help.
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First Upgrade! (in progress)
It's near impossible to change bits without removing the router from it's base so I'm cutting out a clamp system that will replace the router base as a holder for the router spindle.
Here's a video of the action:
Cutting Router Clamp (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFCGPd6IN7k#)
And in the pictures you'll see the first revision that I cut last night. The next picture is the clamp that was just cut in the above video. I just measured it now and it too is not correct. It turns out that the end mill I'm using is not .25" but ~.239" so there's going to be at least one more revision.
:angry:
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Machines building parts for machines.. isnt this the way the Terminator got started?
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Machines building parts for machines.. isnt this the way the Terminator got started?
I assure you that even though this machine doesn't always do what I want it to, it's entirely my fault for being a noob.
Speaking of which, AAAAARRGGHGHHH! Third time was not the charm. I did an all around comparison of the actual dims. vs. design dims. and it appears as though one of the steps along the way is adding .025" to every edge making IDs smaller by .05" and ODs larger by .05". I'm trying to track down the culprit now with the help of the experts at the Build Your Tools forums. Wish me luck.
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See if your router has a large run-out (how much it wobbles in the collet +/-)
And you might have some backlash in your system..
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See if your router has a large run-out (how much it wobbles in the collet +/-)
And you might have some backlash in your system..
You know, that's very likely the problem. The only end mill I currently have is 3/8" and seeing as though I don't have a 3/8" collet, I wrapped copper tape around the bit to make it 1/2". Unfortunately I don't have a dial indicator to check for run-out so I'm stuck waiting for the bushing I ordered the other day to see if that fixes the problem.
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On second thought, I don't think it is a runout problem. Runout can only increase the diameter of the cut not make it smaller which is what I've been getting. However, I've switched to a flute P.O.S. router bit I had lying around and it's closer to what I'm expecting.
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(moved to its own thread)
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You don't want to share the g-code for the coin test print?
I wouldn't mind doing one on my cnc to see how well it works.
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You don't want to share the g-code for the coin test print?
I wouldn't mind doing one on my cnc to see how well it works.
Also send it to Unstupid, with the Thermwood he has access to at work he'd probably be able to make a coin about 6 feet in diameter. ;D
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You don't want to share the g-code for the coin test print?
I wouldn't mind doing one on my cnc to see how well it works.
Sorry, I don't have it anymore. It was just to test the machine and I deleted it shortly after cutting it.
If you want to try and replicate it what I did was used the B/W mockup coin from the coin contest page in a program called ArtCAM although I'm sure there are many programs that could do the same.
Also send it to Unstupid, with the Thermwood he has access to at work he'd probably be able to make a coin about 6 feet in diameter. ;D
Now that I would like to see!
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While this thread is bumped, I'd like to offer my services. My machine (I should really name it...) has been getting no attention lately and that's a shame.
As should be obvious, I am not an expert. I have no formal training and am self taught (mostly through trial and error) in all the programs that I use. I'm willing to try just about anything and if I can't do it there would be no charge. Anyway, if anyone has something they'd like me to do just drop me a PM and we'll chat.
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Have you thought about CNCing arcade related signs? I got these last year from a guy over on KLOV (haven't seen his sale thread bumped in many months). Painted them myself and gave them away as Xmas gifts.
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Have you thought about CNCing arcade related signs? I got these last year from a guy over on KLOV (haven't seen his sale thread bumped in many months). Painted them myself and gave them away as Xmas gifts.
Those sure are neat with the T-Molding and all! I might just see what I can come up with. Thanks.
Of course I'm open to suggestions. Preferably simple designs like the MK sign.
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(http://inadawords.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/space-invaders-a-simple-plan.gif)
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but is your CNC machine still working? Do you have more photos of things you have cut/carved with it?
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nice progress, i see you are also using the Hitachi router as your spindle.
its great fun being able to produce things now. I built my current CNC at the end of last year. I'm now in the progress of upgrading it from a 4x4 to a 4x8. its come in real handy building the virtual pins this year, along with a lot of other bits along the way.
have fun with it.
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but is your CNC machine still working? Do you have more photos of things you have cut/carved with it?
Still working, yes. Producing anything, not so much.
I haven't had a whole lot of motivation to make anything but have made a couple of random things over the past year. The only thing worth noting is this project (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=111007.msg1197664#msg1197664) which I actually just brought back to life and started working on again a couple weeks ago.
About two weeks ago I posted in the BST section offering CNC services. No bites (that I can actually produce on it) as of yet.
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About two weeks ago I posted in the BST section offering CNC services. No bites (that I can actually produce on it) as of yet.
I'd love to get a panel CNC'ed, but shipping and duty fees will most likely kill the whole idea.
And since I'm also building my own CNC, the money has to go toward building my machine anyway. The list of things to do once my CNC mill is done keeps growing every month, I'm hoping to build my machine before fall 2012. The most expensive parts are already bought (router, motors) and my first few linear motion tests with custom low-cost electronics are going great (TIP120 for now, I plan on using IRLZ44 for the final version).
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Freaking cool, this is.