Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: RedSquirrel on July 22, 2003, 11:10:54 am
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I have just got my sticks and buttons etc for my CP. However, i have come to realise that I will need to do some work to get the joystick right. (Its a t-stick from ultimarc).
I am using 3/4 MDF for the CP. How exactly do I go about fitting it in?
The only thing I can think is if I cut a square into the mdf, just big enough that I can mount it from the top down. This however is going to be a little awkward because it can not be a straight square because the screws won't have anything to attach to overwise. (Or should they be bolts).
I don't have access or the money to buy a router either..
Thanks in advance.
EDIT: Or do I actually just mount the joystick from the understand, and not actually make a complete hole? You know, so I actually attach the screws from the mdf above? As well as this if I do mount from the underside, how do I get the actual stick/ball through the mdf from underneath (the hole will be too small, and I tried removing the stick/ball but it wouldnt..
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I don't remember exactly but I'm sure you have to remove the handle from the rest of the stick. I think you have to remove the microswitches and a nut in the base of the handle. The point is that the handle must be attached to the base passing through a hole in the wood (a hole of 30mm should be enough. My advice is: disasemble the whole stick and asemble it again. Then you will learn how it's built and you'll also learn how to install it.
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Mouting from the underside of the panel will be far easier as long as you can live with the resulting reduced height of the handle.
However, in order to fit the joystick you must first dismantle it by removing the nut at the bottom. The nut is a lock nut so it will be fairly tight.
I would strongly recommend that you save up for a Router. They are not as expensive as you would think. I bought mine from Argos for
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Mouting from the underside of the panel will be far easier as long as you can live with the resulting reduced height of the handle.
However, in order to fit the joystick you must first dismantle it by removing the nut at the bottom. The nut is a lock nut so it will be fairly tight.
I would strongly recommend that you save up for a Router. They are not as expensive as you would think. I bought mine from Argos for
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Mouting from the underside of the panel will be far easier as long as you can live with the resulting reduced height of the handle.
However, in order to fit the joystick you must first dismantle it by removing the nut at the bottom. The nut is a lock nut so it will be fairly tight.
I would strongly recommend that you save up for a Router. They are not as expensive as you would think. I bought mine from Argos for
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I doubt you'd have a table saw if you don't have a router... but just in case you do have access to one, I think you can do the slot cutting with a saw blade instead of a router. Either use a saw blade the right width, or get one of those that wobbles back and forth and cuts a slot the width you adjust on the saw blade itself.
I've also had success using my dremel as a router. More difficult, especially if you don't have a "router attachment" thing that gives it a flat router-like surface around the bit. Freehand worked ok for a lot of things though, and you could maybe rig something Macguyver-ish to give it a flat surface using duct tape, wild plants and household chemicals.
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I used a hammer and chisel to make the holes today. The panel is pretty much complete, just gotta paint it!! ;D ;D
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I have heard of people routing out ("scooping out") some of the panel from underneath to gain some height on the joystick. The joystick base is mounted on the bottom, but it is now recessed up into the wood some. This makes the surface holding the joystick base a bit thinner.
Anyone know how thin you could go before you risk breaking the wood when using the joystick?
Another option is to cut the square hole as you mentioned above, but then use a joystick mounting plate (see the Oscar Controls (http://www.oscarcontrols.com) site). However this will cost you as much as the joystick itself.
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I'm using 3/4 plywood for my cp joystick....
and I have routed out 1/4 inch.... so far... so good....
(and I'm an intense player....)
so....half inch should be fine for you...
actually.... I also route a little bit down from top so that the screw head will sink into the wood... (then my lexan will cover the screw head and will show a clean top !!....
so... offically... I'm a little bit thinner than 1/2 inch....
YMMV.... good luck....
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I have heard of people routing out ("scooping out") some of the panel from underneath to gain some height on the joystick. The joystick base is mounted on the bottom, but it is now recessed up into the wood some. This makes the surface holding the joystick base a bit thinner.
Anyone know how thin you could go before you risk breaking the wood when using the joystick?
Another option is to cut the square hole as you mentioned above, but then use a joystick mounting plate (see the Oscar Controls (http://www.oscarcontrols.com) site). However this will cost you as much as the joystick itself.
I am using 3/4 mdf. I imagine i left 1/4 left for bolting it down. To me, it seems fine. I haven't tested it on games, but i tested it just by moving and it all seemed fine to me. I am still a bit annoyed I don't have more shaft on the joystick, but its better than mounting it from directly underneath and losing nearly the whole stick!