Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Elerium-115 on December 09, 2009, 12:13:00 pm
-
I recently acquired my very first Air Compressor (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=100063473). I don't have any tools, hoses or accessories for it yet. The main reason I bought it is for painting (HVLP&other), nailing and general cleaning of items. Its rated at 6.5CFM@40PSI and 5.5CFM@90PSI. Not the most poweful, but best I could find at 110Volt.
I am wondering what tools you guys use the most and what you recommend for a first time user (tools, advice, etc.)
Hyperlinks would be very helpful if you have any tool recommendations. I do mostly online shopping because the information available is far superior than going to retail stores.
Thanks for your advice and your time!
-
I have 3 Porter Cable Nail Guns and 1 Porter Cable stapler and I seem to find reasons to use them all the time.
-
Finish nailers, brad nailers, and staplers are always useful. I trimmed out a basement and a chunk of a loft with a brad nailer and finish nailer, and it's WAY better than trying to hammer all that stuff. I've used my brad nailer on an arcade cabinet, too, and I've been meaning to acquire a stapler for that purpose.
I'm a fan of Bostitch (Stanley Fastener Systems) brand tools, but pretty much any name brand is likely to be OK. Harbor Freight sells some really cheap air tools if you only plan on using them a little bit.
Don't cheap out on your fasteners. I really would just recommend buying whatever brand your tool is. They are far less likely to jam up that way.
You'll also want a blow gun. No more buying canned air. Yea!
I'm a fan of the Goodyear Pliovic air hoses. These are actually currently on sale at Harbor Freight if you've got one nearby. They're rubber, but they're rated to 300PSI (most are only 200PSI, not that it matters) and remain very flexible down to lower temps than standard rubber air hoses. I don't recommend PVC hoses unless you're going to be doing roofing work. They just aren't very flexible and won't lay flat creating a tripping hazard.
And of course, get yourself some quick connectors. Can't live without 'em.
-
Nice that you found a 110 oiled. I have an oil-less and its obnoxiously loud. Is that one pretty quiet?
Sounds goofy, but what I use my compressor for 70 percent of the time is cleaning stuff out. I got a kit of like 3 different air guns and also the stuff to inflate tires and balls.
A nailer/stapler kit like Karpro mentioned is really handy for arcade projects. You can make some glued/bradded stuff that is really strong and do it quickly.
-
Nice that you found a 110 oiled. I have an oil-less and its obnoxiously loud. Is that one pretty quiet?
I haven't turned it on yet. I have no tools, haha. :D
-
I haven't turned it on yet. I have no tools, haha. :D
You don't need any tools to turn it on. Just flip it over and rub it for a few minutes.
-
You don't need any tools to turn it on. Just flip it over and rub it for a few minutes.
. . . thats just not right.
-
Do you keep pressure in your tank? Should I be releasing pressure after every time I use it?
-
Do you keep pressure in your tank? Should I be releasing pressure after every time I use it?
I keep whatever pressure is left in mine after shutting it off. It typically bleeds down over the course of a few days.
I undo the valve at the bottom every few uses to get the condensation out. If you see the water coming out really rust-tinted, you might want to drain it every use.
-
Elerium-115,
Make sure you do the break in period. Oil to the full level, 20 minutes running with valve fully open, close valve while running until cutoff, shut off, open valve to drain all air and any water, close valve. You will extend the life by a lot if you follow the right break in period. As for tools, chisels are always good to use, especially to get large hardened globs of glue off.
Herk
-
For the love of the computer gods do not use the air from your compressor to clean electronics unless you've got some super duper moisture remover hooked up to that thing. I've seen water shoot out of the end of an air hose like a squirt gun!
Along the same lines, that moisture does bad things to your tools if you don't lubricate them regularly. Most of the time it is as easy as a couple drops into the air inlet before you start shootin.
-
I've been cleaning electronics out for like 7 years with a compressor. No line dryer and the only death they've experienced is obsolescence. Three of them live on in MAME cabs, all the way back to the Pentium 3 I have in my bartop.
If I'm filling a tire or blowing something off, I always hit the gun for a couple seconds before actually starting. Sometimes the air feels cold, but there has never been discernible moisture. I think if someone has water coming out like a squirt gun, they have major issues. They are either never venting the tank or storing the hose very poorly.
-
Having used a compressor in the past for airbrush illustration I strongly recommend a moisture trap for any paint work
-
I've been cleaning electronics out for like 7 years with a compressor. No line dryer and the only death they've experienced is obsolescence. Three of them live on in MAME cabs, all the way back to the Pentium 3 I have in my bartop.
If I'm filling a tire or blowing something off, I always hit the gun for a couple seconds before actually starting. Sometimes the air feels cold, but there has never been discernible moisture. I think if someone has water coming out like a squirt gun, they have major issues. They are either never venting the tank or storing the hose very poorly.
Aren't most PC components washed in water at the manufacturers anyways? On top of that, my computers are more likely to die a horrible death from spilled soda, excessive cat hair or just being in the wrong place when the room floods.
Besides, I've got a 2 year old and a four week old. There is absolutely nothing a little condensation from an air hose will do that either the 2 year old or four week old can't do three times worse. ;D
-
Sometimes the air feels cold
Ah, you've met my friend the ideal gas law. Gas expands, pressure and temp drop. Often it'll get cold enough to condense the moisture right out.
-
Yep, you can put game PCBs in the dishwasher if you want. Just don't power them until your 100% certain it's dry. The amount of moisture out of that spray gun shouldn't be enough to worry about there. It's definitely safer than scrubbing the board.
NOTE: every PCB layout is unique... know what is on the board before getting it wet.
-
Almost all modern PCBs are washed in water or isopropyl alcohol to remove flux residue, especially that nasty flux that's needed for the crappy lead free solder you Europeans made us all use (sorry, had to say it :) ). They are usually then air dried but are sometimes baked at ~75C to encourage the moisture to go away.
However, new PCBs usually use LPI soldermask. This holds up to moisture well. Older PCBs used other kinds of soldermask which can, in some cases, cause the mask to fall off due to the moisture getting under it. I've never had this happen to me, but it can happen. You're usually going to be fine, though.
Be sure to remove socketed chips since moisture will get stuck around those sockets, and let things dry at least overnight (better for a couple days) before using again.
Yes, you can actually usually use a dishwasher if you want, but it's kinda harsh (but very effective). No detergent, turn off any extra heat during wash/rinse. Heated dry at your option; I recommend air dry. Keep the boards on the top rack.
As for air from an air compressor containing excessive moisture, I've never had a problem. I clean computers all the time. Heck, I do it while they're on sometimes, though that may be living a little dangerously. I've never seen water come out of my blow gun, but the air isn't "dry", no. A little water just isn't a big enough deal to care. You can get air line dryers if you want.
-
As far as the "washing a pcb board in the dish washer thing", I would be very worried about any electrolytic capacitors on the board. Or any electronic component that uses paper (or similar) as an insulating layer. I would also worry about any POTs on the board as well, as any moisture that can get into them will make them act really screwy if they dry too slowly and allow for oxidation (random levels of resistance as the POT is turned).
As far as spraying a PCB with an air hose and getting a little moisture on it, I wouldn't worry.
I wonder if the use of isopropyl is mainly to act as a quick drying agent to prevent oxidation, or if they simply add components that can be easily harmed by submersion after the wash... ?
-
If you don't use heated dry, electrolytic caps will probably be OK. Lifetime might be degraded a bit. They're usually good to at least 85C operating, and storage temps are usually a bit higher. They're also sealed pretty well. Mechanical components are another issue, but if you have clean water (big if), you'll probably do alright.
I still tend to stick to the good old water or alcohol and a soft instrument such as a Q-Tip or maybe a toothbrush if things are really bad.
Alcohol is used because flux is quite soluble in it. A follow-up step with water is usually performed to remove any residue that's left as the alcohol will remove bulk but can deposit a film over the entire board if allowed to dry since the flux will come out of solution as that happens.
-
Didn't we have this discussion about washing PCB's before?
-
Yep. We have.
-
Ya know, I thought it sounded familiar. I remember it now :)
All that aside, I wouldn't worry about some stray moisture from your compressed air causing problems. Just make sure to rinse it off if there's any crud expelled along with the moisture as it may be somewhat conductive (bits of metal, for example).