Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: crashwg on November 30, 2009, 09:45:25 pm
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I can't wait to play some Time Crisis on this mofo but it needs a little work and since I know nothing about this sort of thing I'm going to be posting exactly what I'm doing and probably a few questions and hopefully those of you that have a clue can keep me from killing myself! ;D
What I've got:
Mitsubishi VS-50707
What is supposedly wrong with it:
When you press the power button it makes the startup noise but turns right back off. Now when I say "supposedly" what I mean is that I just picked this thing up from this seemingly moronic stoner who did some research which brought him to this thread here:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t435285-mitsubishi_vs_50707_shuts_down (http://www.fixya.com/support/t435285-mitsubishi_vs_50707_shuts_down)
The planned fix:
Replace capacitors 411 and 412 as described in the above thread.
The capacitors in question:
C411 = 2200µF 35v
C412 = 10µF 50v
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For my first question I will ask... How do I go about discharging the anode(s) without having access to the anode caps? I recognize the thing in the pictures as having 4 wires that look like those that would go to the anode caps, not to mention the "Caution High Voltage" printed on the top of what looks like some sort of distribution block... Can I discharge them/it at that point. I've attached a picture for clarity of what I'm looking at.
Oh, and if I can discharge them from that point, do I discharge them to the chassis around the tubes or to some part of the PCB that the parts in the picture are attached to?
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can't say for the mitsubishi rptv but toshiba you remove the ht leads from the flyback end by twisting and pulling up
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If you cant get to where it hooks to the CRT`s then you need to let it set for awhile <---- like a week at least to let the charge disapate. Then you can carfully remove those caps. Be cautious it can still have a residual charge, so I would remove the wire with gloves and a rubber handeld plyers, then ground it to the chassis to remove the remaining voltage. I had to do this to a 50 inch emerson not too long ago.
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...
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The anode cables have been removed. Good news, I'm not dead! So I drilled three holes into the top of a glass fluff jar and stuffed them in there then removed the boards from the back of the TV.
I've got it out and I'm going to try and replace the caps soon but I'm not sure I'll be able to find them locally and would rather not pay more in shipping than I do on the actual product so either I find them locally or I wait until I have a larger order for Mouser...
Looking at Radishack's website they have this that looks promising:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103621 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103621)
but as for the other one, all I could find was this:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102481 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102481)
and not knowing much about capacitors I figured I'd find out what you all thought before I went out and got it. They both look like the 35v one on radishack's site.
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FYI, Digi-Key now has no minimum order, and they'll ship USPS 1st class w/o tracker for a couple bucks. It's actually cheaper to do small orders from Digi-Key now than Mouser.
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FYI, Digi-Key now has no minimum order, and they'll ship USPS 1st class w/o tracker for a couple bucks. It's actually cheaper to do small orders from Digi-Key now than Mouser.
Holy crap this is cool! Technically, at $2.41, it's still costing more for shipping than the $1.50 in parts but over all I think it's still cheaper than driving a half mile to radioshack for the parts.
Thanks MonMotha for the sweet info.
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Caps are on the way! :)
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If it turns out anything like the one I've been working on (60705, similar chassis) expect to find a lot more bad caps. (speaking of which, I need to update that thread)
But obviously you won't know more until you get it to turn on at least.
Definitely read up on any and all possible reasons to cause that non-startup situation. I've seen many different things that can cause that, including bad convergence IC's and pico fuses, power supply caps, etc.
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generally, the anodes are sealed w/silicone rubber and are not to be removed . there is an internal bleeder res in the hv distribution block for self discharge.
so, be sure to reseal the anode caps !!
projos have numerous safety shutdowns
loss of sweep . either h/v or both
xrp
various voltages from smps/scan supply
syscon, etc...
qrz
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If it turns out anything like the one I've been working on (60705, similar chassis) expect to find a lot more bad caps. (speaking of which, I need to update that thread)
But obviously you won't know more until you get it to turn on at least.
Definitely read up on any and all possible reasons to cause that non-startup situation. I've seen many different things that can cause that, including bad convergence IC's and pico fuses, power supply caps, etc.
Honestly, replacing these capacitors is as far as I'm willing to go in trying to fix this thing. If this doesn't work I'll probably try and get rid of it on craigslist or something first then if that doesn't work it will probably end up in the dump.
The capacitors came today though... They're installed and I'm ready to reassemble. Unfortunately I'm not sure when I'll get to since the rest of the TV is at the in-law's which is 25 minutes away and not necessarily worth a trip just for that. It may be Christmas before I get to it. :(
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There's a good chance that I've fixed the TV, yay!
I managed to hook all the wires back up where they belonged last night. When I first turned it on it gave me a little bit of a fight, doing exactly what it was doing before I replaced the capacitors which was, press the power button, it makes noise like it's going to start up then it would shut right back down. I even did the self diagnostic check which gave me the same error code. In frustration I pressed the power button about 10 times within a second or two, then it powered up! A couple times throughout the night I had powered it on for a little bit played some NFSU2 on the XBOX then powered it back off with no issues. I ran the self diagnostic again and it gave me a "12" code which means "everything fine."
So the thing that's got me a little worried though is that I've heard that the cold can keep the deflection problem at bay and it's got to be in the high 40s or low 50s in the in-law's basement where I'm keeping the TV for the time being. Is there any truth to that? I don't know. I guess I'll just assume that it's back to good and if it fails at some point in the future all I will have lost is the effort I've put into moving it from place to place and the <$5 I've invested in capacitors.
Looks like I'll be getting myself at least one Guncon2 in the near future! ;D