Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Arcade Collecting => Miscellaneous Arcade Talk => Topic started by: s34n on October 23, 2009, 02:25:23 am
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Hi There,
Im attempting to get my pads to work for my DDR Korean-Built Cab... so far I haven't had any response...
The Jamma looks as though its wired correctly, i'm getting lights, video and everything on the cab but the controls, control lights, nothing!
From the pads, some wires go directly into the jamma edge connector, which leads to an ITG-IO card, then into a PC. The Yellow and black wires (2 of each) go into a box which I haven't been able to identify... heres a pic http://i34.tinypic.com/m7ff2p.jpg (http://i34.tinypic.com/m7ff2p.jpg) it looks like it might be a transformer or something... model number is CR200, made by saewoo. It's set at 110v (but im in Europe!) but i dont want to change it because it worked before apparently... will i risk damaging anything if I change it to european voltage? or will it simply not work?
Is there anything else that might make these controls not register?
Heres a PDF of a similar japanese cabinet - http://www.betson.com/images/cms/amusement/c4e983654353f073634d4bd90b96fab3_DANCE%20DANCE%20REVOLUTION.pdf (http://www.betson.com/images/cms/amusement/c4e983654353f073634d4bd90b96fab3_DANCE%20DANCE%20REVOLUTION.pdf)
Thanks in advance
Sean
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thats a power supply,don't change the voltage as more than likely the cab has a stepdown installed
when you say controls do you mean floor pads or start buttons?
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What are you trying to do with this cabinet? If you have an ITG-IO board, you have a Boxor installed that would be running In The Groove, a Stepmania derivative published by a company called Roxor. You don't have the DDR hardware, anymore. DDR (up through Extreme) runs on something called the Konami System 573, which is basically a Playstation in a box with a JAMMA connector and some extra hardware.
I'm not sure if anyone has reverse engineered the ITG-IO board. Probably. There's something out there called OpenITG that is apparently taylored to run on ITG machines. It's even less legal that ITG was to begin with :)
If your goal is to run DDR, you'll need the hardware. System 573s running DDR show up on ebay occasionally and generally sell for around $350-500. Supernova, Supernova 2, and Dancing Stage Fusion (Europe only release) ran on a PS2 based system (really, it was a PS2 in a metal box with an I/O board). DDR X (latest) runs on a custom-ish PC and I/O board, but there are no conversion kits available in the USA at this time, and I'm not sure if it's even seen a European release.
If you just want to play random JAMMA games on it for kicks, link the black and white wires on the two connectors for the stage lights. This will hold the stage I/O board in reset (oddly putting it in a useful state) and allow the pads to act like 8-way joysticks. The start buttons are on JAMMA start, left select arrow is button 2, and right arrow is button 3 (button 1 is not wired).
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thanks for the advice on taking the cabinet further, ill definitely be looking out for a 573...
everything was working (inc buttons on the cabinet) but the pads... I found the problem was due to that transformer, the fuse inside was blown...
I replaced the fuse, set the voltage switch to 110v as it was when it was working in the UK... then plugged it into the power supply through an adapter... and presto, the LED came on! was just about to celebrate when the two huge capacitors emitted the biggest cloud of white smoke ever and the device shut down.
I then noticed that those capacitors only get used when set to 110v, so i flipped it to 230v and connected a UK plug to the device directly.
so as of yet, the pads are getting their power, but my machine now has 2 plugs...
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The Korean cabinets have very different power wiring from their Japanese counterparts, and this one sounds hacked up for the ITG Boxor conversion, too. I unfortunately haven't done much with the Korean cabinets as mine and most of my friends' are Japanese, but I know someone with a Korean cabinet if you need me to look something up for you.
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i've finally managed to figure what was wrong with the controls after a big session on it over the weekend. Two of the transistors in the power supply to the pads were shot. So the supply kept blowing fuses left-right and center!! the controls seem to be working okay now... thanks for the help.
I do have a question though, if you are able to ask your friend for me?
I need an original wiring diagram or any instructions/advise regarding the setup of a korean machine.... my cabinet came with a Hantarax Tri-Sync 28 POLO STAR monitor, this blew last week (it was very bad anyway!). but these are Italian, so i'm thinking it ran at 230v (which would explain why an extra supply has been mounted inside the cab)
I've now bought a 100v AC Sega 29" monitor and housing that i'm hoping to replace it with... but i need to know about the configuration of the existing setup.
i.e.
1. what is the voltage of the original screen it was shipped with
2. How was it wired up originally (earthed, supplied etc.)
3. I'm in Europe, but i guess the only difference is the 110v/230v switch on the exterior part of the cab near the power supply.
p.s. I've sent you a PM as well incase you missed this! took me a while to get a few free hours to work on this!
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No idea. I was of the impression that just about everything inside the Korean cabinets ran on 240V. All the ones I see in the USA have a giant transformer stuck in them wired for 120V in and I think 240V out, but that may be stock and people just move the taps when they move them to the USA.
Konami tends not to ground their monitor frames on the Japanese cabinets to prevent ground loops which can result in interference patterns in the video. No idea how the Korean cabinets were wired. They tended to no ground ANYTHING, so probably not grounded :)
No idea what the stock monitor would have been. I think there were several, and they just used whatever was cheap when they built the thing.
If you really need to know, I can email my friend with a Korean cabinet. My DDR cabinet and most of my friends with one have a Japanese version which is totally different in terms of wiring, materials, etc.