Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: MK3FAN on October 07, 2009, 06:43:59 pm
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Hey guys. I got a K7000 series 25" chassis that I just capped. Worked fine before, but now there is no picture. Comes on just fine, but the screen is dark and there is no image. The screen pot turns up the screen, but still no image. The brightness and contrast pots don't work either. Any ideas? All my caps are in correctly and this is the 5th cap kit I have done and the first issue I have ran into. Thanks - Mike.
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And you carefully checked for bad solder joints ? (high heat components, header pins, etc)
Plugged the video cable back in ? (have seen this happen)
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And you carefully checked for bad solder joints ? (high heat components, header pins, etc)
Plugged the video cable back in ? (have seen this happen)
I re-flowed EVERY joint I compromised and re-verified all the caps are in the correct locations and polarity correct. The video cable is hooked up correctly. I installed a different chassis to rule out the video cables and the machine, and it checked good, so the problem is with the K7000.
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I re-flowed EVERY joint I compromised
Was more concerned with other common joints that can be flaky, even on the header pins where the video cable plugs in. (and others)
Just something I always go through and double check, regardless of what I'm actually doing to the chassis.
There's also a couple common traces that will lift and break near large resistors in close proximity to caps that get changed.
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I re-flowed EVERY joint I compromised
Was more concerned with other common joints that can be flaky, even on the header pins where the video cable plugs in. (and others)
Just something I always go through and double check, regardless of what I'm actually doing to the chassis.
There's also a couple common traces that will lift and break near large resistors in close proximity to caps that get changed.
I have neck glow and a stable, dim blue screen. No game images. All the remote controls work. I am pretty sure I didn't create any bridges. I metered all the header pin pathways and they check good.
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Oh man. What a dumbass. Turns out that it was simply the sync wire was on the wrong header pin. Usually, you can use the last pin on the first set for the sync, but on the K7000 series, it seems you have to use the most forward one on the set of three. Works fine now. Thanks for all the suggestions. I appreciate all the help.
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Ah yes .... that'll do it. :cheers:
Yeah, the negative composite sync is the last pin on the three pin set.
Honestly, can't say I've seen a K7000 wired for anything else, so I do it almost habitually now.
Gotta love it when those little things "get ya".
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Ah yes .... that'll do it. :cheers:
Yeah, the negative composite sync is the last pin on the three pin set.
Honestly, can't say I've seen a K7000 wired for anything else, so I do it almost habitually now.
Gotta love it when those little things "get ya".
Oh yes, I love it.