Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: syph007 on August 24, 2009, 03:49:45 pm
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Any online place I can order from, that will deliver to Canada? I can't seem to find this locally, when I ask at stores I'm either not explaining what I want correctly, or they don't carry it. I keep getting directed to the kitchen areas in stores where they sell laminate countertops, but not the stuff in rolls you glue on.
Any help apprecaited.
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Loews didnt have black, but they ordered it for me.
Do you have a loews or home depot?
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goggle wilsonart distributor
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In Home Depot in Edmonton Alberta it is usually at the back of the store just beside the premade laminate counter tops. The kitchen counter area usually has samples of laminate that can be ordered. Black is one of the colors that I have found in stock in the stores in Canada. The rest of the colors are usually counter top flecked colors.
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I went to my local home depot at lunch, and they don't carry it. I'll have to order some.
I noticed on the way by the wood area that they had 5/8 inch black melamine. Anyone use this? Seems like a cheat since its already got a nice surface, would it be a bad idea to try using it?
(http://www.pdainitiative.com/pics/IMG00033-20090825-1155.jpg)
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I went to my local home depot at lunch, and they don't carry it. I'll have to order some.
I noticed on the way by the wood area that they had 5/8 inch black melamine. Anyone use this? Seems like a cheat since its already got a nice surface, would it be a bad idea to try using it?
I've used their 5/8" white melamine, with good results. I wish my local store had black, lol.
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only downside is that it's particleboard, which I find kinda weak
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I agree with Bender about particle board. Its hard to cut out fancy shapes that we have to do in this hobby, because a thin cut tends to want to crumble.
Plus it dont take much moisture at all to ruin it.
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I've used the Wilsonart black laminate before, and that works pretty well. Most any place that does kitchen counters will have it or be able to order it. That stuff is pretty good and durable but it's not cheap.
I've never used the melamine but I wonder about the durability of it. If it's just a super thin veneer on particle board do you need to treat it with kid gloves when you work with it? I would also wonder about the edges, since it's particleboard would it chip away when you route it (do you get a rough edge?)
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Ya I was really close to picking some up, but it's the particle board part of it that I don't like. If they made a real wood product coated in that stuff, I'd buy it for sure. Decided to just go with regular 3/4 plywood for weight reasons, and I will have to order some of the laminate. I love the look of the laminate so the extra hastle will be worth it in the end.
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Success, went to a different home depot and found some. Holy $ batman. 50 bucks canadian a sheet. Oh and if you wonder if you can fit 2 rolls of this stuff in a civic the answer is.... kinda!
Should I be applying this to 5/8 ply now since it will add to the thickness, or will it be ok to use on 3/4 inch and still use 3/4 molding?
(http://www.pdainitiative.com/pics/laminate1.jpg)
(http://www.pdainitiative.com/pics/laminate2.jpg)
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I did a mini-mame for my kids and used 3/4" plywood with the laminate from HD.
The t-molding I bought was good with it, but I can tell that it is maybe a little too thin.
Since you are using black, you could just paint the grooved edge of your wood a similarly sheened black before installing the t-molding to hide any overhang.
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I just used wood glue.... and it worked great. Just be sure to spread it evenly over the surface of the wood before you put down the laminate.
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how big are those rolls? i figured 4x8 feet but they look like they'ed be longer then that unrolled
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Ones I got from HD here in Vancouver, BC looked like that rolled and are 4x8...On 3/4" CPs you will have to bevel the bottom a bit if you offset the slot cut to cover the laminate. With 5/8" you are pretty close and have just a wee bit of overlap on the bottom but hardly noticeable...I would imagine the same for the sides.
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ya they are 4x8 sheets. Ya 5/8 seems fine to me then, and best of all now i dont need high quality stuff since it will be covered. I really love the finish of this stuff, looks exactly how I wanted. Also i get to skip the painting step which is honestly the only part of the build process I've been dreading since I know I'd never be satisfied with how it turned out.
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If your laminating both sides I'd do 5/8ths, if only one side 3/4(especially if you can find 18mm)
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I would agree with the 5/8ths if you can find it. I did some custom shelving and desks with double sided wilsonart laminate and it adds about 1/16th per side. So starting with 5/8ths you will end up really close to 3/4ths if you do both sides.
You want to use contact cement to attach it. Super easy to use, just get a can of the stuff at HD or Lowes, and some paint rollers (you want as thin of a nap on the rollers as you can get - 1/8in is ideal). You can search the web for instructions, but this is how I do it:
First cut wood to shape. Then rough cut laminate using a sharp utility knife. I score the cut line with about 4-5 passes using the knife on the good side of the laminate (good side up) and then while holding it down snap up to break on the line (if you snap down you will splinter the bad (glue) side). Wear gloves if you do it like that, cut laminate is sharp. You want the laminate to overhang your wood by at least an inch on all sides (I usually do a couple inches).
Using normal paint rolling technique, roll the contact cement onto the wood and the backside of the laminate. Wait for it to dry on both. To attach you lay the wood horizontal across some sawhorses or such, flip the laminate and stick. But you don't want to do it quite like that, when the two contact cements touch they will be stuck permanently, so I learned a great trick from someone on how to attach easily.
Get a long electrical power cord, like one of the long orange utility ones. Place it in a "S" shape back and forth across the wood on top of the dried contact cement. Flip the laminate so it is glue side down and place on top of the power cord. Position as needed then start at one side, pull the cord out a little bit, press down to attach, then go across the piece pulling the cord out and attaching as you go.
Once it is all stuck down use a 3in J-roller to roll it all over to make sure it's stuck well. Then get a router or laminate trimmer, with a flush trim bit, and trim the edge.
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I would agree with the 5/8ths if you can find it. I did some custom shelving and desks with double sided wilsonart laminate and it adds about 1/16th per side. So starting with 5/8ths you will end up really close to 3/4ths if you do both sides.
You want to use contact cement to attach it. Super easy to use, just get a can of the stuff at HD or Lowes, and some paint rollers (you want as thin of a nap on the rollers as you can get - 1/8in is ideal). You can search the web for instructions, but this is how I do it:
First cut wood to shape. Then rough cut laminate using a sharp utility knife. I score the cut line with about 4-5 passes using the knife on the good side of the laminate (good side up) and then while holding it down snap up to break on the line (if you snap down you will splinter the bad (glue) side). Wear gloves if you do it like that, cut laminate is sharp. You want the laminate to overhang your wood by at least an inch on all sides (I usually do a couple inches).
Using normal paint rolling technique, roll the contact cement onto the wood and the backside of the laminate. Wait for it to dry on both. To attach you lay the wood horizontal across some sawhorses or such, flip the laminate and stick. But you don't want to do it quite like that, when the two contact cements touch they will be stuck permanently, so I learned a great trick from someone on how to attach easily.
Get a long electrical power cord, like one of the long orange utility ones. Place it in a "S" shape back and forth across the wood on top of the dried contact cement. Flip the laminate so it is glue side down and place on top of the power cord. Position as needed then start at one side, pull the cord out a little bit, press down to attach, then go across the piece pulling the cord out and attaching as you go.
Once it is all stuck down use a 3in J-roller to roll it all over to make sure it's stuck well. Then get a router or laminate trimmer, with a flush trim bit, and trim the edge.
Awesome thanks so much for the tips! I'm getting my plywood tomorrow, then I'll start a project thread.
Thanks again.
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Where is the best place to get a 3 inch j roller? Home Depot does not seem to know what it is.
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Where is the best place to get a 3 inch j roller? Home Depot does not seem to know what it is.
Ya I couldn't find one there either. I ended up just using a rolling pin from the kitchen.
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Where is the best place to get a 3 inch j roller? Home Depot does not seem to know what it is.
I got mine at HD
but I've seen them at woodcraft and rockler too