Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: electreffects on August 20, 2009, 03:11:26 am
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I'm installing a couple of lit Atari cone buttons in my control panel, and I don't know how to wire them up. First, does anyone have a pinout of one of these buttons? I've had no luck finding one on my own. I've attached a picture of the buttons so you know what I'm talking about.
Second, The button is labeled +2V max. I've got 5V going to my control panel, does anyone know or have a schematic to something that will step it down to 2V?
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I've done this, with my mini-pac. You need to use resistors to bring down the voltage, or you'll blow the LED's. My post addresses the minipac, but there's lots of good info about the buttons that should be useful. Check out the thread I posted in for info, and feel free to ask me any questions you might have.
Wiring lighted Atari volcano buttons with the mini-pac. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=88685.msg956528#msg956528)
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I've done this, with my mini-pac. You need to use resistors to bring down the voltage, or you'll blow the LED's.
How is it possible to not love a forum where the most obscure information is committed to memory by it's members.
I love this place. ;D
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Thanks, smalltownguy. Just what I was looking for.
It looks like my buttons are a little different than yours. Mine aren't cherry switches, they're made by Licon. I've got 4 tabs in one row and 2 in another. I think the row of 4 was for the light and the row of 2 is for the switch, but I'm not sure. Time to dig out the multimeter.
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Yep. Multimeter is the way to figure it out. Continuity checks will determine which terminals are for the switch, and a diode check will determine which are for the LED, and the direction of current flow for it.
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For anyone searching on how to wire an Atari Volcano Button (like I did) hopefully this picture helps.
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Invest in an auto ranging multimeter. You will use it more than once.
Switch to ohms. Low resistance means electricity can flow easily. Less than 1 ohm is a direct path. Higher ohms is a coil (led in this case), or deteriorating wire. Too high resistance in a coil can mean deterioration. OL means open loop, no continuity at all.
This fluke 101 is a hell of a deal at $50.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-101-Multimeter-Equipment-Industrial/dp/B00JT5RUUU/ref=asc_df_B00JT5RUUU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763068717&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3630658625094162298&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003270&hvtargid=pla-491901502034&psc=1