Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: jackspicer on August 16, 2009, 06:52:33 pm
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First i ordered the K7000 cap kit from the Mouser Cap Lists at the top of the page and it was missing 3 cap's
The one's i replaced have blue tape on them, The ones that didnt get replaced are 10uf 25v. But i put it back anyways and the monitor looks awsome.
(http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq276/fast_67ford/SDC10669.jpg)
(http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq276/fast_67ford/SDC10671.jpg)
Next what model is this?
(http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq276/fast_67ford/SDC10704.jpg)
(http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq276/fast_67ford/SDC10705.jpg)
(http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq276/fast_67ford/SDC10707.jpg)
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imo you never have more than about 3 caps bad on a chassis anyway-capkits are a shot gun job for people that want an easy fix
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I disagree with grant - to a point. On a K4600 those caps are 30 years old. They're not getting any better, replace them! K7000 are ~20, they'll have less bad caps, but their value have definitely strayed. Replace them. Something like a 7500 I'd go with troubleshooting which are bad, but often you can guess which might be bad based on where they're located on the board. Say...next to a nice hot resistor. Replace it, and bend the replacement as far away from the resistor as you can.
As for what that other chassis is, it is also a K7000. It says the model number on one of those pictures.
Thanks for your feedback on the cap list, were all three of those caps 10@25V?
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Yes, and i think there needs to be 5 total
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19K7901 (K7000)
The three caps C4, C5, and what looks like C6 (view blocked) are 10 uf @ 25 volts BI-POLAR (non-polarized).