Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: xerox4100 on August 14, 2009, 10:51:21 am
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im using mdf in a apartment cutting the pices on the floor with a saw"aka use what you got, But i ran into this problem i cant get the mdf from splitting, and i put like 50 holes in the side panles to try to get it to not fall apart but im missing somthing PLESE HELP
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predrill your holes will help.
Use glue and clamps.
Use a tack strip with glue and screws.
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couldnt you borrow some power tools?
jigsaw,circular saw.a router would be great for trimming the edges up.
i will give you 10/10 for trying with what you have.
:)
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how can glue help it out? and how do i repair the holes freom the screws is there some kind of wood filler? trying to clone the neon mame with my own flave and what are tac strpis i dont want to use tacs becouse semes like they would just come back out, and the screws dont get enough of a bite to stay in and just come back out,
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i have a circuler saw, a drill, screews and money i can buy some more the router was the next toy i was going to buy but right now im just having a hard time geeking it togeather,
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MDF holds way better using glue instead of screws. The tack strips are strips of 1" x 1" wood or whatever that you can glue (or screw, I suppose) to the interior of the side panels that you can attach the cross pieces to. Like this:
(http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/992/1469/1600/P1010022.jpg)
(http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/992/1469/1600/P1010024.jpg)
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I want to see those Pictures but i just get a red x
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I want to see those Pictures but i just get a red x
Have a look HERE (http://bellasarcade.blogspot.com/2006_11_01_archive.html). It shows how I put my MDF cab together.
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BELLA!!! my HERO thats exectly what i needed anyone have any ideals to fix my mistake's with the holes?
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how bad are the holes? wood filler would probably do the trick...if you ripped out chunks of MDF, then you might want to try Bondo
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screw holes so not bad cople nicks with the mdf also
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what kind of Glue Do i need to buy? and how long do you need it to set?
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i've always used elmer's wood glue. that stuff is ridiculously strong once dried. i think it sets in 30 minutes...i'd probably keep it clamped for an hour or so, then try to to put too much stress on it for 24 hours
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what about that gorilla stuff?
polyurathane.
:)
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Elmer's wood glue is fine (the brown stuff not the white stuff). It dries incredibly strong. I would not use gorilla glue - that stuff expands as it dries and makes a mess. It dries fairly quick (30 minutes to an hour) but I'd keep everything clamped up over night at least.
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Yellow glue has been my poison of choice...dont even bother with screws...unless its to help with the glue setting...with MDF I only use glue now...so much easier and nicer.
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Im using the Elmers wood glue as well and I can say that this stuff may look like kiddy glue but it is strong as can be. Im also using a nail gun to help hold the thing together. Dont know that I would trust just using glue. Would definitely worry me.
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maby i dont have enough fath in glue lol i bought a clamp yesterday after work and im going to redue the middle pices recuting them and replacing them. and i got wood filler to fix my 30 screw holes i put in it, i am not able to fine the right size wood to put on the inside tho i bought some 2x4 and the scre eather goes into it onaly in lenght or if gors thro it and the mdf....... im anoyed
Ps thank you all so much for helping me out with this i dream of having a neon mame so bad :notworthy:
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Every last one of us screwed something up on our first cab. My attempt at a candy cab looks like swiss cheese on the side where I drilled so many holes for the monitor mounts.
Bondo and wood glue are your dear dear friends.
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:badmood:
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Every last one of us screwed something up on our first cab.
True that. I remember working on my first cab in my parents' driveway. Went to Home Depot for half an hour and came back to find my dad accidentally caught the rear door on fire while welding nearby :laugh2:
And my CP looked godawful since I'd never used a router before, I literally burned the MDF because I didn't know the bearing was stuck :dunno
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Dont know that I would trust just using glue. Would definitely worry me
I felt the same way at first but honestly try this...take 4 scraps of MDF...two of them join with screws. The other two with yellow glue.
Once the glue is dried try to break it apart...then try the same thing with the screws...you will be suprised. I was.
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At this point i am just going to use glue
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I've glued and screwed but used waay too many screws. I'm now only using screws to held hold because getting clamps in some spots was too hard.
The glue is stronger than the screws. I've got several screws that have broken due to the glue drying and sucking the thread in.
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For gluing MDF I only use 'yellow glue' or AV180 as it's referred to (at least in Australia) it's specifically designed for MDF.
You can still use screws with it as well, make sure to clamp the work and let dry overnight. Once you've successfully joined your work, fill over any damage with "Bondo' as you guys call it ;) and sand smooth.
(http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/ss251/Ond_photos/AV180.jpg)
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not just bondo, but your crazy bondo in a spray can, which I have never seen before.
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not just bondo, but your crazy bondo in a spray can, which I have never seen before.
:lol "Crazy Bondo" heh heh I don't know why but that reminds me of 'Silly String' that liquid string in a can! Tip: do not use silly string to patch holes in cabs ;D
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I bought a clamp and got wood glue because you all told me to and WOW what a difference it now stands on its own and dose not fall apart never thought that glue would be that good now im just looking at ether
1 building the control panel
2 painting the cab wanting to get a mirrored black colour for the sides not sure if control panel going to have design
3 start buying pats for actual pc "expensive part"
4 finding the right monitor or tv to use, because i want to use hyperspin not sure if i should try a 3d one or just get something nice, becouse pc games are also going to be on this cab
give me input guys it is greatly Greatly appreciated
PS.. so not having a table saw you would think every cut would be in a strate line but not realy just about every cut is fubbared in some way the only thing keeping my amazing cab together is the power of pray to god and a lot of glue once i found out how to use it that stuff rocks. now a nice sander i think to make everything look look good to be honest this project make me fell great
:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: THANK YOU ALL please give more advice
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if your after a mirror finish i suggest you use wet sanding technique.you wont get it from just paint or spray,you need to get the paint/spray smooth,that means sanding,wet sanding being the best.it removes the shine you get as normal with glossy paints but,it gets the surface smooth,you just use something to put the shine back afterwards.
i am currently sorting the cosmetics out on a cab i am maming,i got another that is jamma.it is just taking me a while thats all,every coat of paint takes a day to dry so when you put like 3 coats of paint on it takes nigh on 3 days just for waiting for paint to dry.then its wet sanding,have a go here then have a go there.trouble is if your not carefull like i was not,you find you sand it that smooth that you start showing the undercoat so you end up having to paint again and it gos round and round.
i found best technique is to put 4 coats of paint (i am using enamel) dont sand inbetween the coats,just roll it on and get it so it aint got roller marks all over it,then on the 4th coat,when thats dry use 240 grit wet and dry silicone carbide paper.just get a bucket of water,use a sponge to splash water on the surface,dip your paper in the water (use a sanding block) then sand back and forth in the same direction,dont swirl it.always back and forth on yourself.
then when you think you wanna check it,wipe the residue of it and wait till it drys,if you see lots of little dots,thats the top coat of the paint,where the shine was,try to get rid of it.then check out the smoothness.
when you have it wet it will shine and it will reflect everything,that is what will happen once you put the shine back.its like piano finish.
i have had to just put 4 coats on my cab side (again) cos i sanded it down too much,when i wet sand that,i will be carefull this time not to take it too far down,then my sides will be done.i will post pics in my other project thread.it will give idea of what happens when you wet sand.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=94827.0
this was the first side of the cab i did,i noticed i went a bit too far in parts,i went and did the other side and same happened (white blemish's and patchs) i just put 4 coats on and wet sanded and its looking better than before.this side in the pic i am just having go with again,4 coats of paint,then wet sand it.
so yes,it takes quite a lot of paint,time and pastience and knowing when to stop sanding,just that little bit too far and its back to drawing board.
:)
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since we're talking about gluing, if you was to use glue instead of screws to modify a cab, and say you wanted at some point to remove said modification how would you?
also someone painted the inside of the cab im working on.. i dont think it came that way from teh factory.
do i need to sand any parts i wanna glue to? or can i just glue right over the paint?
and lastly i have been using elmers would glue, has a beige or tan look to it and it seems to do good on cracks i've been working on.. although most of the cab looks to be made of plywood not mdf.
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MORE pic's
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pictures are a bit dark and blury but it looks like it's coming a long pretty good.
is this your own design or are you working off plans?
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Borrowed these but there mostly not exect IE slanted a little and I have a cell phone cam thats it sorry for the low qualty but you can see my cat and meany meany IT computer books
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the cats name is NINJA btw
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since we're talking about gluing, if you was to use glue instead of screws to modify a cab, and say you wanted at some point to remove said modification how would you?
You cant basically, either cut it or bash it are about the only ways.
If you use screws you can undo it, but screws have a habit of busting MDF, and making a bulge on the flat side where they go into the end of a panel if you dont do it just right. Glue FTW...
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You cant basically, either cut it or bash it are about the only ways.
Why not use a flush cut saw or jamb saw? The blade is offset so you can cut right up to a piece of wood, which would take out the glue and just a little bit of the piece you want removed.
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flush cut saw or jamb saw never heard of ether of these before what are they?
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btw wood glue over painted wood, ok? or should i sand first?
sorry not trying ot hi-jack anyones project page just thought i'd ask since we was already on the subject of glue.
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flush cut saw or jamb saw never heard of ether of these before what are they?
It's a saw that has an offset blade, which allows it to sit flat against a surface.
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I will have to buy one
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http://www.happcontrols.com/amusement/acesor/49100000.htm
have any of you tried this?
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never heard of a jamb saw but i have heard of a flush cut saw.. if im not mistaken those are the saws where the blade is on teh very end.. sort of like a rotary tool with a cut off wheel is.
a circular saw would have it's guide and guard keeping it from going tight up against a flat surface.
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I understand not, maby I shuld watch some bob vila shows to get some wood tool guidance
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I went out and bought the monitor for my cab today. I currently have it hooked up to my laptop and cant believe how good this looks, launched hyperspin today and WOW it looks amazing,
Monitor type
23"diagonal idescreen Thin Film Transistor LCD active matrix
Native Resolution
1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz (recommended)
Contrast Ratio
1000:1 (typical) 3000:1 (dynamic)
;D
Brightness
300 nits (typical)
Pixel pitch
0.265mm
Response rate
5 ms (on-off) (typical)
Sound
Integrated speakers, 2W per channel
ENERGY STAR Qualified
Yes
Signal Input Connector
VGA and HDMI; Analog: 15-pin miniature D-sub (VGA cable included); HDMI: Version 1.3 (HDMI cable not included); NDCP
Tilt
+25 to -5 degrees
Detachable base (for mounting)
Yes
Dimensions
22.2" (w) x 16.3" (h) x 7.6"(d)
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Cyborg Keyboard
High-end, adjustable, gaming keyboard with customisable backlighting,
programmable functions and media keys.
* Multi-colour backlighting with Tru Vu illumination through keys (mix shades from Red through Amber to Green) and adjustable brightness
* Touch-sensitive, backlit dashboard control panel
* WASD, cursor, ‘Cyborg’ and NumPad keys can be lit independently from the rest of keyboard to highlight commonly used gaming keys
* Cyborg Mode – instantly disable the Windows keys and configure the colour and brightness of your gaming keys at the touch of a button
* Set and forget – persistent key illumination settings ensure colours remain even after a system reboot
* 12 programmable ‘Cyborg’ keys
* Hard wearing, metal-plated key caps in key gaming areas
* Pass-through USB, audio and microphone sockets
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* Adjustable wrist rest and keyboard rake angle (front and back)
* Gold-plated connectors for USB and Audio