Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Arcade Collecting => Miscellaneous Arcade Talk => Topic started by: Beretta on July 26, 2009, 05:32:37 am
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bought a few machines the other day.. im going though them one by one..
right now im looking at a mutant fighter that was stuffed in a centipede cabinet (a i know it's a crime)
anyway the board does'nt seem to do anything.. im running it without a monitor as im gonna yank the monitor out of the cab.. can't really get to the monitor but it looks like a coil is loose on it so i figured it best not to power it up till i can get a look at that..
anyway running it headless i have no sound.. playing it in mame i know it takes roughly 70seconds for the attract to kick in.. and i've waited that long..
hitting coin does nothing as well..
the board it self is in good cosmetic condition.. although it was mounted using wood screws loosely and a few staples was behind where it was mounted.. god only knows what could have happen.
the voltages on the power supply was a few volts high so i adjusted the knob, i've got the voltages pretty close now, but still nothing.
there is what looks to be a POT on the board that says VR1, im thinking voltage regulation? perhaps.
anyway im looking for
1. manual (only paperwork in the cab was a quick jamma pin out and dip switch diagram.. thats it, i have verified that attract sounds are on, and pin out is wired correctly)
2. pictures of the PCB to compare mine to.
i checked google and came up empty on both counts.
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You need to check to make sure the board is getting power. Check the power supply.
You also NEED video. No other way around it.
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You need to check to make sure the board is getting power. Check the power supply.
You also NEED video. No other way around it.
the voltages on the power supply was a few volts high so i adjusted the knob, i've got the voltages pretty close now, but still nothing.
the power supply appears to be good, but i'lll swap with another when i get a chance.. i dont think it's the power supply.
it would be nice if they had some power led's on the board, i could'nt find a single one.
i intend to try and get some video to it, but i still need manual to find out wth VR1 is, so the following still applies.
1. manual (only paperwork in the cab was a quick jamma pin out and dip switch diagram.. thats it, i have verified that attract sounds are on, and pin out is wired correctly)
2. pictures of the PCB to compare mine to.
i checked google and came up empty on both counts.
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If VR1 is on the board, I'm betting it's volume.
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the power supply appears to be good, but i'lll swap with another when i get a chance.. i dont think it's the power supply.
What Peale is referring to is to check power at the power supply AND at the game board.
You can have a good power supply, but if it isn't getting to the board then it's useless. ;)
So best to check both and be certain.
And the VR1 is most definitely volume.
PCB pic : http://www.crazykong.com/pcbs/G%20-%20O/MutantFighter.pcb.html
Didn't see a manual floating around for it, but it's basic JAMMA anyways and with the dipswitch settings you already have there's not much more needed.
(found one on ebay though)
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the power supply appears to be good, but i'lll swap with another when i get a chance.. i dont think it's the power supply.
What Peale is referring to is to check power at the power supply AND at the game board.
Yep, that's what I meant. Sorry for not being more clear.
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just a update i was looking over some of the other machines i got and one has a working wg 4900.. or was it a 4600 can't remember now anyway oddly it ALSO has a crumbling thermistor for the degauss wire.
none the less it powered up with a clear image, the machine had pit fighter in it which seems to work, i swapped for the mutant fighter it does power up and play but has snow on it picture (not monitor related) the game does'nt seem to have any service menu, so i can't tell which chip is bad.. perhaps they just need reseated i'll try that in a day or two when i get a chance..
NO sound, i wanna be sure before fiddling with the pot.. but i bet you guys are right volume makes sense.. that pcb you found looks EXACT like mine.. odd that dataeast did not label it anywhere besides their name.. there is no way to know it's mutant fighter till you power it up.
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I just checked the picture (I hadn't before) and can 100% say that VR1 is the volume pot. Note how it's in the sound amp section?
As for no sound, make sure you have all your voltage, esp -5VDC and +12VDC. Failing that, the amp chip may have blown.
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ok you guys was right, it was the volume and yes it was turned completely down.
i previously i tested the board in a cabinet that had WG 4906, and it displayed ok other then snow.
i've since taken the monitor out, as well as a bezerk that had been converted into street fighter 2 with an electohome g07.
im planing on selling the cabinets, so they're pretty gutted now except for marquee and speakers.
anyway i made me a little test area and was testing out the g07, the SF2 had squiggly lines when i tried it in the cabinet, long story short i found the problem there.. loose connectors on the jamma, on green and sync, so the SF2 and electrohome both work fine.
anyway i pulled all the chips off the mutant fighter and reseated them.. this fixed the snowy picture, so it appears to be working fine now.. except.. i have a kinda curve at the top of the picture.. this happen even before i pulled the chips.. im thinking this is a monitor adjustment?
like i said other then the snowy picture it displayed fine on the WG but that was about a week or so ago before i pulled the monitors, i've not tested it on the WG again yet.
the pit fighter and sf2 i tested on teh electrohome both display fine.
any ideas before i hook up the WG to try?
(http://i29.tinypic.com/10fnas4.jpg) (http://i27.tinypic.com/33xbg90.jpg)
(http://i25.tinypic.com/33eil2d.jpg) (http://i31.tinypic.com/28lz7v6.jpg)
fixed, pulling and reseating chips worked.
(http://i27.tinypic.com/2hn04fr.jpg) (http://i27.tinypic.com/2me1hfl.jpg)
(http://i31.tinypic.com/2le4i9x.jpg) (http://i31.tinypic.com/wwj0k4.jpg)
(http://i31.tinypic.com/2lxfds5.jpg) (http://i31.tinypic.com/34qp6di.jpg)
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Has the sync mod been done to that G07 ?
Have you tried adjusting the Horizontal Frequency Control on the chassis?
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you'll have to educate me, sync mod?
i have made no adjustments to the monitor yet, im not even sure what to adjust.
like i said pit fighter and street fighter both display fine on it, i figure it's a monitor adjustment but did'nt wanna mess with anything till i got advice.
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The first thing is the mod to the G07 chassis that upgrades the sync circuit to handle the newer PCBs eliminating top curl in the pic. The way the instructions were written seem to be hard for some to follow, so I'm going to put my own notes on it as posted in RGVAC in 1998 here & hopefully they will be easier to follow. To make the upgrade do this:
o -First.. remove C501 & chuck it out.
o -Second.. remove C303 & place it in the holes for C501 & solder.
o -Third.. clean the solder from the hole between the 2 holes where C303 was removed & fill in the one furthest from the chassis edge with solder.
o -Fourth.. put a 10 to 22uf @ 25 volt minimum in the now closer together holes at C303 with the longer positive lead going thru the hole closest to the edge of the chassis PCB & solder.
o -Fifth.. after reinstallation of the chassis adjust the H hold for a center point without the curl.
So basically if you see an electrolytic type capacitor at location C303, then it has already been done.
If you see a largeish "bubble gum" shaped capacitor there, then it has NOT been done.
C303 is located way back in the corner near the video input connectors.
C501 is located about dead middle of the chassis.
And it is very common to have to do some adjustments on an arcade monitor when changing boards out, even if they are all "JAMMA" type boards.
Tweak on the Hor. Freq. (VR504) a bit and see what happens.
Do NOT touch the B+ adj.
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ah, i see, that sounds exactly like what im seeing.
i'll have to take a look at it later, if i had to guess though i bet it has'nt be modded... interesting that this would needed for some boards.