Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: hulkster on July 09, 2003, 06:58:17 pm
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my bolts are 5/16, and they are the right length and everything. so i practiced on a scrap piece of wood to see how they work and all that (never used them before). i used first a 5/16 drill bit for the hole, but the bolt wouldnt fit, unless i like hammered it in, so i wet to a larger bit and the bolt fit but was a little loose. anyway, i know im supposed to secure the bolt on the other side with a nut (heh) which are also 5/16, but they dont screw on by hand (all kinds of jokes could be made here) am i supposed to use a wrench or something? and how do i get the bolts to go in? am i correct using a 5/16 drill bit, or should i use the larger one? please help!
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You should expect to hammer it in. That's how you know it's secure. That square part just below the head keeps the bolt from rotating inside the hole. As for the nut, you should at least be able to get it on. Are you sure you got the right size of nut? Did you buy a labelled package or did you buy them individually from a hardware store. If you bought them individually then maybe they were mislabelled. Are they visibly smaller?
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i bought them in a package, 7 in each package. i guess i can try others, maybe one was messed up or something. and when you hammer in the bolt, the square part is to go in the hole as well correct?
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YUP! That's correct. The only part showing should be the head.
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what about using a carrage bolt with a lexan top? Can you still hammer it through the lexan?
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Chances are the lexan won't budge. If anything, it will probably give you hairline cracks. The stuff is strong, but it's not bullet proof.
The cracks wouldn't hurt the structural integrity of the lexan. It will look something like those stars you get when a rock hits your windshield. Happened to my first control panel when I tightened the bolts too tight and it started pinching the lexan. Wasn't really noticeable, though. However I think trying to hammer it on in is a totally different matter.
You would be better off using machine screws. They are countersunk. They would have a groove for a screw driver, but can sit flush with the lexan.
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re: carriagebolts and lexan...
1. you could use flat machine screws under the artwork/overlay/contact paper and not have any bolts show
2. if you wanted to put the carriage through the top of the lexan for that look... you'd simply get a small profile file and file the corners so the square parts fit in (or fit in "Better")
3 or you could tighten the shizit out of it and hope it doesn't crack like previous posters...
rampy
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so once i get my lexan, and cut it and everything, i can just drill holes and use machine screws to keep it bolted to the cp?
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so once i get my lexan, and cut it and everything, i can just drill holes and use machine screws to keep it bolted to the cp?
And then preferablly cover those screws with something (artworkd/contact paper something...) ... yes... (and nuts on the machine screws underneath the joystick base)
*shrug*
rampy
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First of all to answer the nut being tight/not fitting. Check to make sure you didn't get lock nuts (nuts with a white plastic insert)? If not then you may have grabbed the correct size but wrong pitch thread? If you did get the locknuts, that's not all bad, that way they don't fall off. If you decide to get regular nuts you may have to add lockwashers to keep them from coming loose.
I tried to put together a sketch of what Rampy is trying to explain? I think anyway. Hope this helps.
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I've heated up the heads of carrage bolts with a torch and then quickly/carefully pulled it from underneath with a pair of vice grips untill the square shank is fully sunken into the melted lexan, wait for the bolt and lexan to cool and harden and then put your nut on and carefully snug it up. Don't pull the hot carrage bolt too much or you'll end up with a melted ring of lexan oozing out around the sides of the bolt head. You may want to use a regular nut with a lock washer instead of a nylon lock nut. Lock nuts exert pressure on the bolt when screwing them on and you might crack the area where the square bolt shank grips into the lexan before you even get the nut fully tightened.
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Simplest option is to drill your wood at 5/16" and drill the Lexan at a 1/32" or 1/16" (11/32 or 3/8) larger so the square part of the carriage bolt drops down. The bolt will spin then, but that shouldn't matter and you won't crack your Lexan.
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Hey, hey.. let's keep our sketches in scale, thank you very much ;)
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I thought standard carriage bolts used on arcade panels were smaller than 1/4 (not 5/16)? 7/32's or something like that?
Wade
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I thought standard carriage bolts used on arcade panels were smaller than 1/4 (not 5/16)? 7/32's or something like that?
Wade
Now that you mention it, standards are 3/16th's. OSCAR is using 1/4-inch for his restrictor plates to eliminate play. 5/16 is probably too big.
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Nice sketch, nanunanu! It really does illustrate what I was getting at.
And good pickup: I glossed over when he said 5/16" carriage bolts (although he somehow got them to fit(?!) through the joystick holes apparently....
3/16" is standard (and of course harder to find =P)
*shrug*
Rampy
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i havent put any carraige bolts through joysticks yet. but im glad you said something. i guess i should use carriage bolts for joysticks too? or can i just use screws?
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i havent put any carraige bolts through joysticks yet. but im glad you said something. i guess i should use carriage bolts for joysticks too? or can i just use screws?
That all depends on what method you use for mounting. If you are flush mounting from the top you can probably get away with flat-head wood screws. If you're going from the bottom like that, though, you're going to want bolts or machine screws.
I've seen joysticks in arcades that were attatched with screws but the screw ripped away from the wood and the joystick fell down into the machine.
However, flush-mounting involves mounting from the top so there really isn't any pushing through that can occur. Fo this situation, you only need screws to hold it steady. You insert the screws below the artwork, though, just as the picture above illustrates for using machine screws. I'll try to post a picture.
P.S. I know it's not the prettiest flush-mount, but it doesn't have to be cuz nobody is gonna see it. Just as long as it's straight and sturdy.
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And with artwork and lexan on top to cover it... (I'm in the middle of a project so expect it to look unfinished.)
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alan,
you have any more WIP shots?
Is that 1/4" or 1/8" lexan?
Rampy
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Don't have any but I could take some. That's 1/8" lexan with the green protective film still on it.
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nah... well not just for me anyways.
I'll have already sealed my fate later this evening regardless =P
rampy
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It's not big deal. Got the camera and controller right here. Just tell me what you might want a picture of. My lexan is gonna be sitting on top of my MDF and t-molding cuz I didn't have the proper sizes and and I'm trying to use up all the stuff I have. It's a very straight cut, though, and sanding it would make it even straighter.