Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: rampy on July 09, 2003, 02:20:30 pm
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What do most folks do in this case?
Do they just use the 3/4" t-molding and center it for/on the 3/4" wood and let the top clear 1/4 inch "show"?
Or do you buy 2 feet of 1" molding and offset it so the t-molding goes "up" to the top of the lexan flush and covers the wood too.
Other options? ideas? Just looking for suggestions/standards... i.e. what YOU did...
Of course 5/8" or 1/2" cp wood woulda made the whole question negligble but that's not the boat i'm in =P
Thanks!
Rampy
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It depends on the application. For instance, Golen Tee machines simply let the plexi rest on top and bevel the edge so you don't hurt yourself on it. I'm pretty sure they use 1/4" thickness. That's what I plan on doing with my CP, too. (Except I'm only using 1/8" lexan.)
I wouldn't try to center it halfway up. I would say all or nothing. Either leave the plexi resting on top or get t-molding large enough to cover the edge completley.
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Could somebody please explain to me what "Lexan" is? The T-Molding I've figured out is the black plastic that goes "into" the wood but I'm lost when people talk about lexan ..
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Lexan is a sheet of plastic you can use in place of plexi glass. It's something like 25 times harder so it's easier to cut, drill, etc. It's more expensive, though.
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Typically the only time lexan (or plexiglass) is used is to cover the monitor, right? ...or do people use it to cover the control panel as well?
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especially the control panel so you can put art under it and cover screw holes and such
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Plexi is acceptable for covering the monitor, but lexan is probably preferred for the control panel since it requires more precision cuts and drilling. Unless you plan on surfacing the thing with formica or some sort of heavy duty vinyl you are going to probably want lexan or plexi.
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HEY! don't hijack my thread ! =P
*cough* still looking for opinions...
Rampy
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*Official Opinion*
Rest the plexi on top and bevel the edge.
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HEY! don't hijack my thread ! =P
*cough* still looking for opinions...
Rampy
HIHI
(http://ebaumsworld.com/forumfun/misc5.jpg)
for your question.
No,I don't use 3/4" wood+plexi and let the plexi "show".
I use 5/8" wood and 1/8" plexi and change the router bit's height.
look carefully..
(http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid68/p3f5a8318f64d95a6d9deb240649e819a/fbc14d22.jpg)
Typically the only time lexan (or plexiglass) is used is to cover the monitor, right? ...or do people use it to cover the control panel as well?
Yes,plexi is typically used.
Lexan is not used for monitor glass as it scratchs easier.
and cost a lot.
Yes "people" use lexan for control panel.You can treat it like wood and drill all you want no problem.
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Well it's too late for that. He's already got the wood and plexi and together they are too large.
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I'd say just get some 1" t-molding. It'll only cost an extra couple of bucks + shipping. My second place vote goes to covering the wood completely and just rounding off the edge of the lexan so there're no sharp corners to cut your hands on.
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if you have router.. maybe you could try route a round edge on the lexan....
but with 3/4 + 1/4... will that be too thick ???
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*BRAIN STORM*
Check your PM, rampy...
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My vote would be to center the t-molding on the wood, ignoring the added height of the lexan. I would think that having 1/8 of uncovered wood would look kinda goofy.
(http://ebaumsworld.com/forumfun/misc5.jpg)
GET...OFF...MY...PLANE!!!
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Outwater plastics sells 1" in black,white and :P brown :P if you're not in the market for some funky color. What color are you looking for ? or are you already stuck with a bunch of 3/4" :-\
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Ok from my experiance, i would say T-molding is on the wood and lexan is by itself. But do make sure you break the edges some how. at first mine was not broken and i kid you not we were playing some active Golden Tee (the only way to use those controls) and no BS here, the guy i was playing with hit the panel wrong and sliced open the palm of his hand! It wasn't like blood was gushing everywhere and mass panic occured, but it still sucked. I would at very minimium use a 13 degree beveling router bit if not a Chamfer (45 degree). Roundover bit is going to be silly cause the radius is so small due to the thickness of lexan (generally 1/8"). When you are done cutting the lexan you can use some fine steel wool and smooth/soften those edges, but don't go sloppy here, if the Steel wool is too coarse it will leave marks in the face...