Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: javeryh on March 25, 2009, 06:15:54 am
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I need to buy something to fill in some holes/dings in the side of a cab - I notice that most people use bondo. Is there a reason for this? What is wrong with wood filler or even some spackle?
I will be sanding, priming, sanding and painting over top of whatever I use. I have A LOT of filling to do and from what I understand bondo sets very quickly which is why I'm thinking of not using it. Any thoughts?
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If I were you I would read OND's thread on his retro machine. He is using plastibond, and this crazy bondo in a spray can that just is mind boggling. I do know that there is a middle ground as my friend who is a house painter recommended, but I would say that plastibond stuff is the new wave.
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If you have a metal CP yes because Bondo, as its name says bonds well with metal (and wood).
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Hi Javeryh Spackle fine for nail holes as long as you do not use lightweight. I use epoxy filler for wood for anything larger. You have to make sure you mix it well and let it dry before you can paint at least over night . bondo is a pain in the ass very short working time. go to your local paint store and try Flex-Tex Hv it comes in a caulking tube and the two parts mix together as you squeeze it out mix it together more. it works great is stronger then Bondo. and I have carried a tube around for months and is does not go bad.
Hope that helps :)
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The only holes I had were from where I drilled screws in...I also had some spaces where I wasnt square with my cuts...I just went to Wall Mart and got that Miniwax Wood filler...worked fine on my wood cab....if you have metal...BONDO
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i'd say it depends on how big the holes are. i used wood filler on my control panel to cover crew holes and fill in some small gaps, and it worked great. i've tried using bondo in the past, but it is a pain in the
(http://www.hedweb.com/animimag/donkey.jpg)
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I used bondo on my cabinet and it couldn't have been easier. You just mix it, fill in the hole, let it dry, and sand. You can't even tell there was a hole there. heck, I rebuilt two bottom corners with it and it turned out beautifully.
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If I had to do it again I would have used Bondo.
Wood filler and putty seem to shrink and expand with climate changes.
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Bondo rules!
I leave a can of it open in my garage at all times, just to remind me how great it is :dizzy:
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bondo is BYOAC's best friend!
unlike spacle and woodfiller which are mostly water based, so shrink when they dry. bondo is an epoxy type thing that cures cemically so no shrinking
I chaged a 2 hole set up to 3 hole layout, in no time, don't think I could have done that with anything else
plus it's ready to work in 30 min. just awesome.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=118752;image)
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For dings and screw holes I use a high-density spackle. The brand is Crawford's and a comes in a green can at Home Depot. It is very durable and can be "sanded" with a dry rag or scrubber sponge.
I really had my doubts against using bondo until I saw Bender's picture...I will have to give it a try on my next project.
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Yes Bondo is a epoxy thing but with wood epoxy you get five times the working time with it. the down side off wood epoxy is it takes at least 24 hours to dry. I have painted for 25 years and have repaired many cabinets and rotten wood trim. epoxy is also much more flexable then Spackle. I also like that all I'm storing is a tube not a gal on can that you wind up losing the hardener for. take care :D
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It's all true. Bondo rips! ;D The stuff is amazing to work with. It's super fast setting, sands/drills/routs like wood and adheres very well to just about anything! Just use it in a well ventilated area or after long you'll be seeing stars. PU!
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bondo is BYOAC's best friend!
unlike spacle and woodfiller which are mostly water based, so shrink when they dry. bondo is an epoxy type thing that cures cemically so no shrinking
Good point. Anyone know of a UK alternative? Idealy from Wickes, B&Q etc
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bondo is BYOAC's best friend!
unlike spacle and woodfiller which are mostly water based, so shrink when they dry. bondo is an epoxy type thing that cures cemically so no shrinking
Good point. Anyone know of a UK alternative? Idealy from Wickes, B&Q etc
Go in and ask them for automotive body filler. Check your local auto parts store too.
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I guess I'm going the bondo route! Is it a pain to deal with a lot of little dings since the bondo sets so fast? I'll probably mark everything with a pencil prior to mixing the bondo but I imagine I'll have to go little by little. I'm really happy I can sand almost right away.
Thanks everyone! :cheers:
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Jav,
you can simply put a little less hardner in the mix aand it will take longer to setup.
On another note, shouldn't you be finishing that juke before starting another project?? ;D :cheers:
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im currently doing some work on a Double Dragon Cab for my brother. It has some bad spots on both sides and with the cab on its side, i cant get to them all at once. so what i do is just mix up a small batch on a piece of card board. fill in the areas i need to and then let it dry. then repeat with a new piece of card board. its not hard to use at all. dont worry if you mix to much the first few times. you can always mix more.
after mixing, work for a few minutes on the areas that need work and then stop. clean your tools and let it dry. if you try and work with the bondo when it starts to get tacky, you will not be able to fill in spots very easily.
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Jav,
you can simply put a little less hardner in the mix aand it will take longer to setup.
On another note, shouldn't you be finishing that juke before starting another project?? ;D :cheers:
The juke is operational but I need some help finishing it up. I'm not sure what to do about the back I/O panel I have planned (since I'm out of plexi and laminate) and I need to wire all of the plugs to one outlet which I'm scared to do. That's all that is left to do... oh, and I have to order a marquee (it's final) and polish out that scratch. But yes, you are right in that I really need to finish that up. ;D
im currently doing some work on a Double Dragon Cab for my brother. It has some bad spots on both sides and with the cab on its side, i cant get to them all at once. so what i do is just mix up a small batch on a piece of card board. fill in the areas i need to and then let it dry. then repeat with a new piece of card board. its not hard to use at all. dont worry if you mix to much the first few times. you can always mix more.
after mixing, work for a few minutes on the areas that need work and then stop. clean your tools and let it dry. if you try and work with the bondo when it starts to get tacky, you will not be able to fill in spots very easily.
Thanks for the tips! I am excited to start - I'll post pics and junk when I get going...
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(http://hacknmod.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/2428276475_78235e2875_o1.jpg)
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Any tip on sanding/finishing bondo without damaging the wood? what tools, grits, etc...?
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Just use your belt sander for the shaping then random orbit for 200- 500 grit, then hand sand/ polish 800-2000 grit. I use 100 for rough, if any chips re layer. Then for 250, then 500 and 1000-2000 depending on your desired finish. You will want to do a very high grit for glossy/ mirror finishes.
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Just use your belt sander
Belt sanders are evil! Throw them in the trash! :D
Seriously, I hate those things. If we are talking about filling several imperfections on one surface, do this.:
Apply the goods very thin, very fast. Use a palm sander to level the area and hit it again. Repeat as needed until it is smoooooth. Primer,Paint. Post :cheers:
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Anyone try "Wood Hardener" for soft corners followed by bondo on top ?
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The freaking, useless wood filler I used in my cabinet to plug up the lockbar holes have shrunk and are on the verge of falling out of their holes. It sanded flat and looked good before I painted it, but looked bad in the weeks after. I could see a blemish at first, now it's an ugly bulge that you can push in and out with your finger. Next build, screw the wood filler, I'm going bondo. :banghead:
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If working for a mirror finish, don't forget the glazing putty. Bondo will usually have some imperfections that are nearly impossible to get smooth, but a thin layer of glazing putty smooths it right out. :cheers:
(http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/2903/290336_300.jpg)
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Bondo filled 27 holes in THIS panel...
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/PapaFriz/williams%20multigame/CONTROLPANELHOLYHELL1.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/PapaFriz/williams%20multigame/CONTROLPANELHALFPLUGGED.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/PapaFriz/williams%20multigame/WOODCP6.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/PapaFriz/williams%20multigame/WOODCP2.jpg)
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Bondo filled 27 holes in THIS panel...
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/PapaFriz/williams%20multigame/CONTROLPANELHOLYHELL1.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/PapaFriz/williams%20multigame/CONTROLPANELHALFPLUGGED.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/PapaFriz/williams%20multigame/WOODCP6.jpg)
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/PapaFriz/williams%20multigame/WOODCP2.jpg)
There's not arguing with those results Friz ;D
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^^Damn! ^^
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Damn Frizzle. Looks like it may have quicker to just make a new one.
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Damn Frizzle. Looks like it may have quicker to just make a new one.
Sure...if you have the woodworking shop AND the material AND the knowhow, you could probably knock out Williams CPs in short order.
Or just fill some holes with bondo and sand flush. About an hour of work.
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BYOAC sponsored in part by Bondo!
They should give us some money for throwing so much business their way. :)
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Or discounts / freebies off their product.
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I just picked up some of this:
(http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/bondo/262.jpg)
They had a few different kinds but I went with this one because it looked to be the most generic (and it was the cheapest!). Did I get the right stuff?
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Also, is it necessary to sand first or can I just start filling and then sand everything smooth once it dries?
Bah, it's just too cold out today. It's about 47 degrees and it is windy as hell. I really wanted to get this done but I don't want to rush and I could barely feel my hands. I'll have to save it for another day. I'm not even sure I was doing it right - I mixed up the bondo, used a knife to fill the holes and then waited 45 minutes and sanded smooth. It's not coming out as nice as I want but I was rushing because of the cold. :angry:
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Thats the stuff. One thing I have noticed with that brand is if you don't mix the filler really good, the stuff just stays tacky eternally. Good luck!
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Hey if anyone has any left over bondo...send it my way...I have a 1972 Chevelle I need to restore!!!! :gobama
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Does anyone know anything about Elmer's brand "Carpenter's Wood Filler?" I have some small 1/4 inch holes where bolts were previously inserted that I want to fill in an attempt to improve where a joystick was mounted.
I may be drilling where it would overlap with the old holes, so I need something that can stand up to the drill and not crack or break up.
It looks like Bondo would do the trick, but I already have some of that wood filler around, so I thought I'd ask first.