Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: SirPeale on March 24, 2009, 08:00:00 pm
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Have a K4600 that WAS working perfectly. Right until somehow, someway, the neckboard got split in two. :censored: INSIDE a damn cab.
Tube is okay, so I attempted to put it back together. Everything /looks/ okay, I have continuity on all traces.
I've got high voltage, at least I'm pretty sure I do because the screen gets charged with static. No neck glow. I've checked and double checked the connections on the neckboard, all appear to be sound. R422 reads @ 1 Ohm.
I'd read the heater voltage except I've read that you need a true RMS meter to get an accurate reading, and of course I don't have one.
Any ideas? I'm clueless here.
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depending on the crt size/type , filament pins are 4,5 or 9,10
with "neck board" diconnected , u should read a low res across these pins on the crt .
with same condition above , u should also read a low res across the same pins on the skt.
if not , there is a break in the fil winding. note : usually one side of the winding is ground
qrz
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It ain't missing the ground somewhere is it ?
(on the neckboard itself)
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usually , there is a single ground pin on the fly.
several windings are then referenced to that pin.
removing the socket breaks the loop . so, u should read low res from either fil pin to gnd ....
qrz
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QRZ: define "res".
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sorry, been at this so long i tend to forget others are not so familiar with the technobabble. :-[
just another hazzard of being an " old fart "
low resistance. in this instance < 1 ohm
qrz
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I get the technobabble, but sometimes I have trouble with your abbreviations.
I'll check it out.
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Finally got around to figuring this out today.
When I said I had continuity on all traces, what I meant was all traces that were torn in two by the neckboard cracking.
There was one that I missed. You guessed it - one of the heater traces. I thought it looked iffy before, so I checked it and sure enough...zero ohms.
Hit it with a soldering iron, and it was sliding all around. Just a solder pad not attached to the trace! Hit it with my fibreglass pencil to bare copper and now it's working fine. Needs recapping, but working again.
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One recapping later and it's awesome. Didn't have all the caps to replace, but I got 95% with what I had on hand. Has improved things 100%. Amazing picture, considering the sheer amount of Pac-Man and Shinobi burn. The tube is brown from it, yet gives a great picture.