Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: cmoses on March 12, 2009, 01:43:54 pm
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I am getting ready to work on my control panel and was wondering what the thought was on thickness for a wooden control panel. I initially purchased some 5/8" MDF, thinking that by using it and a 1/8" plexiglass top then I would be able to use 3/4" T-Molding on the side.
I have U360's and will be top mounting them on the panel. Routing out enough on the top to allow them to be flat with the panels. My guess is I will need to route out about 1/8" in order to do this, leaving 1/2" to mount the joysticks in. Is this enough material to securely mount them?
The alternative would be to get 3/4" MDF, still route out 1/8" to flush top mount them, but this would leave 5/8" for mounting. I would still use the 1/8" plexi and 3/4" T-Molding. I would just have to route the bottom with a 45 degree edge so that it is not noticeable.
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
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Can this be moved. I posted it in the wrong section. I thought I was posting it in MAIN section.
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1/2" is plenty to mount them in
I did mine the same way except mounted underneath
in other words 5/8" panel and routed out 1/8" underneath (I have the linger shaft)
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I think most users mount the joystick underneath the plate. This gives generally better view and you have only 4 visible screws. And place a plexiglass above is no big problem.
I do with my project:
================ <- plexiglass
---------------- <- paper or layer with print
================ <-- mdf plate
===== ===== <-- with routed part underneath
It's easier and it gives your a bit more freedom with prints above the plate.
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1/2" should be plenty. More importantly, where are you finding 5/8" MDF????
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I get locally from a place that specializes in plywood, they got 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 1", 1 1/4"
Maine coast lumber
Years ago I used to get from the lumberyard behind the Morris county Mall (seriously)
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I just mounted my JLF in a 12mm (1/2") panel. I recessed the top ~3mm deep for the mounting plate and screws. That leaves 9mm which should be plenty.
Im going to use 5/8" t molding. 12mm MDF and 3mm acyrlic will equal 15mm which will leave a 0.4mm t-moulding overhang.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/CP%20Builds/jlfmtng20.jpg)
I just finished that mounting guide btw cmoses. Its [here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90467.0)] if you are interested.
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That is exactly what I plan to do!!!
15mm MDF, 3mm lexan, thickness of CP art about 0.3mm using 3/4" t-molding (19.05mm) should leave around 0.75mm overhang at the most which will be on the bottom anyway.
I could even centre it and trim it from both sides just like Santoro did on his cab or I could even go for 4mm lexan if I really wanted to.
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I wouldn't use Lexan if I was you bud. Lexan is a brand of polycarbonate and although it cuts easier than plexi (acrylic) it also scratches much easier.
Acrylic still cuts very easily a router/forstner bits etc. I have cut/drilled/routed loads of acrylic and the only problem I have had was when I tried cutting some 3mm acylic with a jigsaw with a too low TPI blade. Apart from that it cuts like butter :)
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REALLY? Everytime I have tried to cut it it snaps! But that wasn't using a router, that was using a spade bit! :dizzy:
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Ive had no problems drilling it with a forstner bit + a drill press. It may be either or a combination of both that's giving me good results.
I'll try a forstner bit in my hand drill later and let you know how that goes.
At what point does the acrylic crack? If its near the start of the cut it may be due to the tapered lead of the spade bit pushing the acrylic apart rather than cutting before the spade starts cutting. Maybe try drilling a pilot hole the same size as the widest part of the tapered lead before running the spade bit down.
If it crack near the middle or end I guess the problem would be that the drill is not cutting at 90 degrees to the material (assuming you are not using a drill press). If you don't have the drill perfectly straight the bit will cut through the material at an angle and will break though on one edge rather than all at the same time. When this happens the bit can have a tendency to grab and then will crack the acrylic.
I would advise investing in a forstner bit and trying that. If you don't have or don't want to buy a drill press you can get a drill stand like [this (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-54488-Vertical-Drill-Stand/dp/B0001K9VJA)]. Obviously you will be limited by the throat depth.
The other solution would be to drill your MDF CP first, line up your acrylic and mark the center of the holes. Drill through the acrylic with a drill big enough to get a flush trim bit in (10-18mm depending on what size bit you use) and then use the router bit to interpolate the holes.
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I just mounted my JLF in a 12mm (1/2") panel. I recessed the top ~3mm deep for the mounting plate and screws. That leaves 9mm which should be plenty.
Im going to use 5/8" t molding. 12mm MDF and 3mm acyrlic will equal 15mm which will leave a 0.4mm t-moulding overhang.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/CP%20Builds/jlfmtng20.jpg)
I just finished that mounting guide btw cmoses. Its [here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90467.0)] if you are interested.
Damn thats one fine looking joystick,
I bet it lights up in many pretty colors too!!!!!! ;)
I Wants me one
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1/2" should be plenty. More importantly, where are you finding 5/8" MDF????
I picked up the 5/8" MDF at the local Home Depot. They only sell it in 4' x 8' sheets. I found a piece that was messed up on one edge and talked to a manager. He sold it to me for half price and I had them cut it down into 2' sections. I will use the messed up piece to do all my testing (first time using a router).
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I get locally from a place that specializes in plywood, they got 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 1", 1 1/4"
Maine coast lumber
Years ago I used to get from the lumberyard behind the Morris county Mall (seriously)
Wow really? I've looked all over for 5/8" MDF and no one seems to carry it around here. The best response I got was that I'd have to order a palette! I haven't checked that lumberyard though (it's still there). I might have to stop by one of these days after seeing my parents...
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Yeah, I've never seen 5/8 MDF at a Home Depot or Lowes...they just carry 1/2 or 3/4.
I've found one guy in the Seattle area that carries 5/8, but he is way too far to consider a trip in the gas sucking truck.
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If you are looking in the precut sections of Home Depot - mostly 2' x 4', 2' x 2', etc. Then all you will find is 1/2" MDF and 3/4" MDF. You have to go to the area where they have the 4' x 8' sheets.
Which if you are building a control panel is a lot of wood. Like I said I found a pierce that was damaged and got a good deal on it. My local Home Depot also has a scrap section, but I do not think that all of them do. The scrap section has pieces of wood that were miss cut or were what was left over after a cut that a customer did not want. They pieces in that section get a color code (little bit of spray paint to mark them) and sell for .50 to $2.00. Amazing what you can find sometimes in there.