Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Arcade Collecting => Restorations & repair => Topic started by: Luigi on March 02, 2009, 07:36:32 am
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Hi everybody.
In the next monthsI will try to restore our Berzerk, that was turned into a generic cab.
I already purchased a marquee, turned and repaired the monitor. I ordered the plugs I need and I bought a PCB set (no idea if it works).
I downloaded the awesome bezel from Mr.Do's artwork site and had it printed in UK. Seems to be great but until now I refused to attach (and ruin?) the sticker to the new glass I bought :-\
However, can somebody with a Berzerk provide a picture of the PCB-board? I mean the wooden "drawer" where the PCBs are mounted to.
Thanks.....pictures follow (some can bee seen in my Blog): www.thludwig.de
:)
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I can do that. I'm surprised there isn't a suitable pic out on the net someplace, though.
Tried to find a pic on the web for you, didn't, but found this one.
(http://spyhunter007.com/Images/berzerk_women_play_too.jpg)
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Chad, I prefer dark hair but thanks a lot for trying and this is a very nice pic :cheers:
I guess this is the wrong section...can somebody of the admins or mods please move this over to "Restoration"??
Thanks :)
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Thanks for moving :)
Now in the right section.....IS THERE ANYBODY OUT THERE with a Berzerk upright cab who can send me a picture how the PCBs must be arranged on the pcb-board???
:'(
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Easy, man... I'll do it as soon as I have the chance. I work a lot of hours right now. My berzerk is sitting right next to my workbench at home and the ZPU is actually sitting next to the soldering iron.
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OMG...I completely missed this
I can do that.
...I'm....sorry :-[
I guess my eyes were pulled to the picture like a nail towards a magnet ::)
OK, no need to hurry....I will wait for the picture....btw. can you tell me how the PCBs are mounted to the board? Screws with separators I guess...
Thanks! :cheers:
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BTW, here is page five of the manual. It tells you everything you need to know about the layout. If you don't have the manual you really do need it for this game as the self test procedure is critical for getting it going.
The boards are mounted with metal rails. The layout could be approximated with spacers or angle aluminum.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119202;image)
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Yeah, I know the manual, already printed out. And I think the layout of the PCBs is given with the connectors to other PCBs...but I wanted to be sure...so if you don't mind..... :)
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I can still get the pics. I'll take them with the ZPU out so you can see the brackets. Do you need pics of the drawer sliders too? That appears to be standard cabinet hardware you could pull from a piece of old furniture or pick up at a hardware store.
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After cleaning and giving some oil the sliders work perfectly again, thanks, no pics of them needed :)
Don't know if you saw the pictures in my blog. Here's what I am starting from:
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Your blog is offlimits to me - plus many people don't often surf off of a project thread onto a blog. You'll get a whole lot more help around here by posting the details in this thread. The game title is the only reason I'm following it...
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Do we agree that this is the best freaking set-up for a cab ever ? I mean, not having to get the machine out of it's row, turn it around, open the back and reach in. Instead simply draw the entire electronics section to the front. I love it.
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It's great for the PCBS... but I haven't seen a way to get the effin monitor out without laying the cab down on its front and pulling it up. Tell me that doesn't even things out!
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Do we agree that this is the best freaking set-up for a cab ever ? I mean, not having to get the machine out of it's row, turn it around, open the back and reach in. Instead simply draw the entire electronics section to the front. I love it.
+1 :)
BUT Chad is right.....the monitor has been turned to run vertical games and I :censored: before I had it turned back to horizontal :banghead:
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Didn't know that part.... as the most famous Dutch soccer player ever always says: "Every advantage has it's disadvantage." :laugh:
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Your blog is offlimits to me - plus many people don't often surf off of a project thread onto a blog. You'll get a whole lot more help around here by posting the details in this thread. The game title is the only reason I'm following it...
I think you're right.....so I will show you all what happened 'til now.
This is how I received the Berzerk: tube rotated to vertical position and not running, yellow marquee, joystick replaced, Mr.Do (bootleg)-PCB installed, all original PCBs gone, almost all of the original wiring gone :'(
Sideart is good on both sides, no reason to repaint. I'm still surprised that the panel is in original shape (no addition holes ::) )
(http://www.thludwig.de/arcade/pics/berzerk/berzerk_marquee_1.jpg)
(http://www.thludwig.de/arcade/pics/berzerk/berzerk_pcb-board_1.jpg)
(http://www.thludwig.de/arcade/pics/berzerk/berzerk_1.jpg)
I rotated the tube back to horizontal and repaired it, bought a marquee and an original Joystick...I have no idea if it still works.....we will see.
Do Berzerk-PCBs work with standard microswitch-sticks, too??
(http://www.thludwig.de/arcade/pics/berzerk/berzerk_panel_2.jpg)
(http://www.thludwig.de/arcade/pics/berzerk/berzerk_marquee_2.jpg)
That's it so far. I ordered all connectors to redo the original wiring as good as possible (and necessary). I'm now waiting for a pic to see how the PCBs are installed and will then start to rewire everything.....when everything is running again I will have a new CPO printed.
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Looks like you've got a Monroe joystick there. Does it rotate a full 360 perfectly smooth? If so, it's a Monroe, used in Time Pilot and Gyruss. Average Ebay price is about $30.
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Most Berzerks you'll find have the standard red ball Happ in them. They originally came with the spiffy optical stick but they were so unreliable Stern stopped using them and sent out replacement leaf sticks as a corrective measure. The original is expensive now but I prefer the Happ anyway.
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Looks like you've got a Monroe joystick there. Does it rotate a full 360 perfectly smooth? If so, it's a Monroe, used in Time Pilot and Gyruss. Average Ebay price is about $30.
Gyruss sticks are slightly different than the Time Pilot ones and sell for a premium over the TP ones.
(http://scoresaves.com/images/GyrussStick.png)
Time Pilot stick is much simpler with only 1 plate. They look identical from above.
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119360;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119358;image)
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Looks like you've got a Monroe joystick there. Does it rotate a full 360 perfectly smooth? If so, it's a Monroe, used in Time Pilot and Gyruss. Average Ebay price is about $30.
Gyruss sticks are slightly different than the Time Pilot ones and sell for a premium over the TP ones.
Time Pilot stick is much simpler with only 1 plate. They look identical from above.
Thanks! It's amazing what one can still learn. :cheers:
Now back to our regularly scheduled thread subject...
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Thanks for the pics Chad :)
I guess I will use the spacers instead of the metal brackets.
And I will try to run with the original stick. If it fails and I cannot repair it, I have a red ball leaf stick lying around :)
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So you have the optical stick? :applaud:
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So you have the optical stick? :applaud:
I think so :)
Got it from Ebay for 1€...no one else was interested....
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Happened to me with a G07 chassis. Also 1 euro as no-one else bid. I got a really big fat power supply on top of it ! Picked it up in Germany (was close to the border for work anyway) the seller said he was happy that someone who could use it got it. I recently put that chassis into operation in my Centipede and it's working great (even before cap-kit) ! :)
I really hope to play that Berzerk one day Thorsten, I've never played the real cab ! :D
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A g07 chassis is a little different than a $100 joystick!
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OK, how about a working Power Drift upright ?
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Got the PCBs on the drawer now....as you can see I need the transformer....search has started....
I used PCB feet....that thing with the alu brackets would have taken too long....
(http://www.thludwig.de/arcade/pics/berzerk/berzerk_pcb-board_2.jpg)
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I have an original Stern stick if interested ? make me a offer via PM if you want.
Can post up pics if needed.
Pics:
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll124/Atari_Fan/Berzerk/SDC11140.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll124/Atari_Fan/Berzerk/SDC11139.jpg)
Steve
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Thanks for the stick but I got one...maybe Chad is interested :)
Attached the printed bezel to the new glass today.....Nigel from UK did an awesome job with it :)
(http://www.thludwig.de/arcade/pics/berzerk/berzerk_newbezel.jpg)
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That bezel does look pretty good. :cheers:
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This thread _badly_ needs an update ;)
By the way, there's a really good restore/repair log here:
http://www.wowway.com/%7Eookpik72/brl.html (http://www.wowway.com/%7Eookpik72/brl.html)
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Oh, hey, I forgot about that offer for the stick above. I "bought it" from him. He ripped me off.
DON'T DEAL WITH THAT GUY!
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Indeed, he screwed me and some other people too.
To be clear, we talk about username "Steve" here and "Dexter" on Draigonlairsfans.com forum.
:
http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1007.0 (http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=1007.0)
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Then he need a negative Trade Count not positive (+6) like he have now...
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Then he need a negative Trade Count not positive (+6) like he have now...
He was talking about Steve who has a firm -2....