Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: iAtoria on February 19, 2009, 04:27:00 pm
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I am a complete woodworking newbie. I plan to start construction in the Summer and have a few dollars laying around so I decided I would get an early jump on purchasing some equipment. I currently have a jigsaw and a table saw. So I have no problem with big cuts, but the real question comes down to the router.
I understand how a router would make the holes in my CP for buttons, joysticks, etc, but how does this slot cutting/arbor business work? I guess I don't know how the attachments actually cut the wood, especially keeping it right in the middle of the edge of the 3/4" MDF wood. Is there a special guide that needs to be purchased? Also could anyone make any suggestions on a router, slotting cutter, and arbor?
Any help on this would be great.
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I'm kinda new to Routers also, but at Sears, starting next week, they have a sale on a router & table combo for $109.99. Sears model #28180 If you go to Sears web site, http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00928180000P?vName=Tools (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00928180000P?vName=Tools) you can see the specs.
Here is a description:
Craftsman 9.5 amp, 1-3/4 hp motor delivers 25,000 rpm. Soft start motor technology. Live tool indicator light. 334 sq. in. router table has smooth laminate worksurface, above table height adjustment, extended adjustable fence and built in 2-1/2 in. dust extraction port.
**** BONUS **** Starting Feb 22, 2009 if you are a Craftsman Club Member, you can get the same combo for $99.99. So if your not a member, then sign up! http://www.craftsman.com/craftsmanclub/ (http://www.craftsman.com/craftsmanclub/) It's FREE!! :cheers:
I also bought this set of slot cutters at Harbor Freight.http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93511 (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93511).
Description: C3 carbide tips resist impact and wear
Precision ground, machined and balanced construction
Anti-kickback design
1/4'' shank mandrel
Kerf sizes: 1/16'', 3/32'', 1/8'', 5/32'', 3/16'', 1/4''; 16,000 RPM maximum, Cutters diameter: 2'', Arbor: 5/16''
It's a great router & slot cutter for beginers and since your're probably not going to use it a whole lot, then it will be great for your homebrew arcade project! ;D
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My local lowes had a nice Skill brand router & table combo for $69 marked down from $109 I really like the Skill router its much more ergonomic and easier to hold/handle than the other ones I have seen. Plus it has a trigger for on/off rather than a switch so its safer.
I passed on it since I did not need it but it was the last one in the store, I actually did not have to do any routing for my project the Happ sticks I got mounted under the CP without any routing and it was just between 1/2" and 3/4" thick.
But I did get a $25 laminate router off Harbor Freight that would have handled it easy without a large investment if I did need to route.
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These pictures probably explain it best:
(http://www.cheyennesales.com/images/822_a.jpg)
This is the slot cutting assembly. It consists of the arbour/nut, guide bearing, slot cutter and washers. You assemble the router as shown and then eyeball the center height that the cutter wants to be in. Then take a test cut in a scrap piece of material which will look something like this:
(http://www.rd.com/images/tfhimport/2006/200611_RouterTech_003.jpg)
You can see the bearing runs along the material and stops the slot cutter from cutting too deep.
You don't need to take as long of a cut as in that picture, a couple of inches will do. Then take a look at the slot, if it is a long way off center adjust the depth stop and then cutter height which should look something like this:
(http://www.festoolusa.com/images/features/OF-1400-Depth-Stop-Turret.jpg)
Take another cut, you should be closer to center now. To check you are bang on center, flip the material over and take a cut in the same slot as your previous cut, if the height is set correctly the router should move very little to no material. If it does remove material then half the error with the depth stop and repeat cutting a slot on both sides of the materail until it removes no material on the second side.
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Exactly what I was looking for, thank you all for making a newbie feel less inadequate.
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Great info and that's a really good price on that slot cutter set, I paid $16 for just the 1/16" cutter from mlcswoodworking.com
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Ahhh, the flip it over a see if it is centred technique! Gotta love it! ;)
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I've been getting most of my tools off Craigslist.
If you don't need something immediately, just setup to watch a few RSS feeds on the things you're really looking for and jump when you see something list.
I've picked up a porter cable router, a really nice set of slot cutters and forstner bits, a grinder, sabresaw, tablesaw, biscuit joiner, various dewalt tools, etc all that way, and rarely paid over 50$ for any of them (many for 20$ or less).
You just can't need any of it immediately.
If you do, I have to agree, HarborFrieght or NorthernTool are two excellent sources.
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Great info and that's a really good price on that slot cutter set, I paid $16 for just the 1/16" cutter from mlcswoodworking.com
I also bought the slot cutter from mlcs..seemed like the best price. I did however get burning wood when cutting slots for the t-molding. I would take light passes too, but it still seemed to generate a lot of heat/smoke/burn. I'm not sure if the bit i got maybe was dull.
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Make sure you have the slotting cutter on the right way round. I put it on the wrong way before and got what you are describing :P
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lol..good point. i think i did have it on the right way, but i'll check.