Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Visitor Q on January 14, 2009, 08:27:09 am
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Ordering glass today and I was wondering how everyone has their's secured? I was going to have them drill holes in mine before they fire it so that I could just screw it into the frame around where the monitor goes, then install end caps over them... I was thinking two per side.
Thoughts?
Ideas?
Thanks!
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Don't put screws into glass. It breaks very easy at the holes. Best is to make slots to hold it, for example a shallow one at the bottom and a deeper one above, so you can lift it up into the top slot, and lower it into the bottom slot.
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I bought "shelve supports" at Home Depot and used them to hold in the glass:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=82241.msg878506#msg878506
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Don't put screws into glass. It breaks very easy at the holes. Best is to make slots to hold it, for example a shallow one at the bottom and a deeper one above, so you can lift it up into the top slot, and lower it into the bottom slot.
This is tempered glass and I was going to put nylon washers behind the screw holes. I am not looking to go ape ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- screwing it down so I find it doubtful that it would break... Maybe you are right though, that is why I am looking for suggestions here.
Paul... Yeah I saw your set up, do those unscrew for when you want to remove the glass, behind those caps there? I want to make sure I am able to get the glass out when needed.
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Yea... I know that you've seen my setup... I thought that I would post anyway. ;D
No... the shelve supports are press-fit. That's why I drilled the holes two sizes (the shallow part of the drill hole is the correct size for the support... the deeper part of the hole is 1/64" smaller... so the plastic peg of the shelve support would press fit snugly.
They are tight enough where you can't pull them out with your fingers... they come out easily with a pair of pliers.
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;)
So you are saying they work sorta like thumb tacks? Not that you are going to be taking the monitor in and out all the time but do you feel that they could be removed, put back inplace many times and still hold?
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I route out a channel on each side and side it in
Such a clean look, and easy to remove just take one of the sides off and slide it back out
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I route out a channel on each side and side it in
Such a clean look, and easy to remove just take one of the sides off and slide it back out
I could try this but I just don't know cause then it is going to screw with the glass size.
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I route out a channel on each side and side it in
Such a clean look, and easy to remove just take one of the sides off and slide it back out
I could try this but I just don't know cause then it is going to screw with the glass size.
I just don't order the glass till I'm done and I make a template out of masonite (the same thickness as the glass) first to get the exact measurements
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Glass place said there would be no problems with having holes drilled in the glass before it was fired. I was thinking 1/4" in from the edge, two per side asymmetrical. I mean I will just put some rubber grommets behind the screws an caps over the tops of them, should look really clean IMO. I am not suspending the glass here, just holding it in place from tipping forward.
Ya know thinking maybe even two per side is two many, maybe I should just do the 4 corners or two on the left and right?
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My suggestions keeps the glass in place, and removable from the front, and invisible mounted. Screws in sight is not very nice.
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My suggestions keeps the glass in place, and removable from the front, and invisible mounted. Screws in sight is not very nice.
The screw will be flush or have caps over them. I know they have black screws, I think it should look clean. I think Paul's setup looks really clean and you can see how he has his mounted.
I'm up for more suggestions but to me, a few screws to hold the glass in place would be great and easy to access.
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None of the hundreds of arcade machines I have ever seen have ever had holes drilled in the glass to secure them, and that's probably for good reason.
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None of the hundreds of arcade machines I have ever seen have ever had holes drilled in the glass to secure them, and that's probably for good reason.
Could have to do with cost?
What about velcro?
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I mean I am not trying to be a smart ass here guys but I have to find a solution to a card I have already been dealt. I have a Mameroom UA II and I need to deal with retaining glass on it. I am limited as to how the cabinet is already built as to what solution I can use and not use so please bear with me.
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There have been posts in the past about people using industrial strength velcro to hold up their plexiglass. I don't remember about tempered glass though.
I have industrial strength velcro and I wouldn't have any concerns about using it. It locks in place very well.
What about velcro?
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There have been posts in the past about people using industrial strength velcro to hold up their plexiglass. I don't remember about tempered glass though.
I have industrial strength velcro and I wouldn't have any concerns about using it. It locks in place very well.
Industrial strength Velcro? Do I need some sorta special license to buy that stuff? :laugh2:
Really though, maybe Velcro is the answer here. I mean of course I want a clean look but like I said, I am limited here as to how the cab is already built as to what I can and can not do with it. I guess I should have stated this in my first post.
My Bad.
I mean I don't plan on ever taking the monitor out of this thing unless I have to move the cab which will more than likely be a road I have to travel looking ahead. The monitor has to come out through the front of the cab..
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None of the hundreds of arcade machines I have ever seen have ever had holes drilled in the glass to secure them, and that's probably for good reason.
Could have to do with cost?
What about velcro?
i made a vivarium for a lizard, with four panels of tempered glass held on with velcro. i got some sandpaper of sorts to rough up the glass , a two part epoxy suitable for all surfaces, smeared on and laid on an 'edge/surround' of velcro. worked like a charm and solid as a rock. i would say if you can see the velcro through the glass its a bit ugly but easily covered with a sticker bezel on the front :cheers:
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None of the hundreds of arcade machines I have ever seen have ever had holes drilled in the glass to secure them, and that's probably for good reason.
Could have to do with cost?
What about velcro?
i made a vivarium for a lizard, with four panels of tempered glass held on with velcro. i got some sandpaper of sorts to rough up the glass , a two part epoxy suitable for all surfaces, smeared on and laid on an 'edge/surround' of velcro. worked like a charm and solid as a rock. i would say if you can see the velcro through the glass its a bit ugly but easily covered with a sticker bezel on the front :cheers:
I plan on painting around the entire edge of the glass, you won't see jack behind it!
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i reckon it'd work perfectly then, sorry got no pics of the tank i made
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i reckon it'd work perfectly then, sorry got no pics of the tank i made
Well I surely will consider it.
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how about marquee retainer like 3/4" angle iron painted black?
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I used angled aluminum painted black and screwed it in from the bottom on to my monitor bezel (mdf) and stuck some splice tape between the aluminum and glass.
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=904262&Ntt=904262&catalogId=11601&storeId=10051&langId=-15&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=51%204294964299%2016&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber&revtab=true
I'll take some pics if you need it.
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None of the hundreds of arcade machines I have ever seen have ever had holes drilled in the glass to secure them, and that's probably for good reason.
Let me answer this one again... CO$T!
It is $100, yup $100 + dollars to have holes drilled in the glass!!!! :dizzy:
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I used angled aluminum painted black and screwed it in from the bottom on to my monitor bezel (mdf) and stuck some splice tape between the aluminum and glass.
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=904262&Ntt=904262&catalogId=11601&storeId=10051&langId=-15&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=51%204294964299%2016&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber&revtab=true
I'll take some pics if you need it.
Pix would be cool, thanks.
ps. I owned two Corrados. A Yellow G60 and I turbo charged a VR6 (Plum). :cheers:
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Hopefully you can get the idea with these pics (camera phone sorry).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=116155;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=116157;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=116159;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=116161;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=116163;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=116165;image)
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Thats a great idea, where did you get the angled aluminum? And how did you get it to be the right length?
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You can get that at most hardware stores and it cuts easily with a hacksaw. Ask for angle iron if you can't find it.
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Thanks for posting those pix however I think I am just going to roll with Velcro at this point. I need to wait and see once I get the glass in my hands.
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Thats a great idea, where did you get the angled aluminum? And how did you get it to be the right length?
You can get it at either lowes or home depot. Whats nice about aluminum is that you can cut like wood, I used my miter saw to cut it to length and then I just sanded it and painted it.
In fact I used a lot of angled aluminum for my project as I need many different types of brackets and finding and buying what I needed would have been hard and expensive.