Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Necro on November 12, 2008, 01:07:56 pm
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Will the attached wiring diagram work for AC? Of course I'd have ground running as well...but this is just for ease of diagramming. Basically, it shunts the AC power to two paths, each with a seperate switch, so that I can turn the lights on independently of the computer/monitor.
Still need to figure out how to have the LCD monitor automatically turn on...
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It'll work but... I prefer with old standbys. Start with a receptical box, heavy duty cord and a wall jack and wire it together for a clean DIY solution. Then you can plug in standard cords to feed whatever you need. That way everything is in a nice neat package with little or no chance for a short circuit.
I've dealt with some wicked wiring schemes (my father's) and it seems that if a person has to ask, it's probably better to go with something basic and safe (relatively speaking).
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That would defeat having two switches on the outside of the cab, wouldn't it? I'd still need to run switches off each power cord coming off the main receptacle box.
I have the impression this will work, my main confusion is the terminal block to be honest. I know I could just pigtail the same setup, but it would be harder to disconnect the setup. Also, could easily put a switch in line prior to the terminal block, but that would have everything be controlled on the one switch.
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I didn't say it won't work. I'm just offering an, and I feel, safer alternative.
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I guess I'm not seeing how the alternative would accomplish what I'm trying to accomplish is all.
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Well... it's a lot easier than it seems. Really, do whatever you want. It's your cabinet.
But for anyone that's curious. Split your receptacle on the Hot and leave the Neutral alone. Assuming you have a three prong, wire the ground up normally to receptacle and switches (if required). Wire the neutral to your receptacle. Split the hot between the two switches on one side then on the other side, run a connection to the appropriate receptacle connection. Box everything up. Switches get mounted facing outside the cab for access. Wall socket gets mounted on the inside for your plugs. The biggest advantage is that it's so standardized that you can plug almost anything into this setup and have it switchable from outside the cab.
Here's a pic to help if you need it. This is diagram assumes you're looking directly at the wall socket. I didn't show the ground on the switches. It really depends on your choice of switch. All I'm suggesting is a sort of power strip that has granular control over each socket rather than a common switch for all the sockets.
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Ok, I see what your saying now - it's basically the exact same thing I suggested only using plugs instead of the terminal strip.
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so that I can turn the lights on independently of the computer/monitor.
I was just curious as to why you wanted it like that ?
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It's an Omega Race - the thing looks pretty sweet with just the lights on.
Although I'm debating it as of right now :)...
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It's an Omega Race - the thing looks pretty sweet with just the lights on.
OK ... I kinda figured it something to with just have the lighting effect without the game running.
:cheers:
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Ok, I see what your saying now - it's basically the exact same thing I suggested only using plugs instead of the terminal strip.
Yeah in 20 words or less. I guess what put me off is the question itself. It's going to work, but if someone asks, I want them to be safe and get their functionality.
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Still need to figure out how to have the LCD monitor automatically turn on...
If the LCD monitor will "stay on" between power downs, just plug it into the computer power strip.