Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: payment_due on October 30, 2008, 11:36:21 pm
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I've recently discovered that the video is flipped on my cabinet. The model as far as I can tell is a Phillips MV A48ABK05X. Another number I found on the same lable was an EIA312. Here are some pictures of the monitor from inside the cabinet. The monitor works fine but it seems that all of my games (except one, a Street Fighter II board that is flipped via dips) display upside down. So it seems that the monitor itself is installed upside down, but what gets me is that the controls and extra bits and pieces as seen here (http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq134/payment_due/sf2monitor/main2.jpg) tell me that the monitor is right-side-up.
I'm not 100% sure, but thats what it looks like to my untrained eyes.
So I'm trying to figure out the best, and safest way to correct this issue.
Someone I've been in contact with mentioned that I can "break the yoke connector in half (the vertical and horizontal pairs are together), and flip them end to end, and that will get you 'right' again. " (thats a quote)
I'm not sure what parts he is referring to. Would someone be able to point those out to me in any of these pictures? And even so, is it possible that this has been done in the past, as it seems the monitor is installed correctly? I'm a little lost. If anyone could point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.
Shot from the bottom: bottom (http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq134/payment_due/sf2monitor/bottom.jpg)
shot from the left left (http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq134/payment_due/sf2monitor/left.jpg)
Shot from right: right (http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq134/payment_due/sf2monitor/right.jpg)
Closer shot of the control box: box (http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq134/payment_due/sf2monitor/controls.jpg)
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Your model is a wells 7000 and your yoke connector is at the end of the red/blue/yellow green wires coming from the tube. If you do flip it you will just want to flip the yellow and green wires.
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Thank you sarge!
Now the bigger question... do I run the risk of blowing my butt off if I attempt this? Would clipping the wires, stripping them and then switching them a few inches away from the scary tube have the same effect? (and will I shock my butt if I touch those wires?)
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You could take the advice you posted earlier and just split the connector and flip the plug for the vertical deflection coil or you can swap them at the wires. The yoke wires won't shock you. Just stay away from the 2nd anode and there is no reason to fear. If you're that concerned you can always discharge the tube but it really isn't necessary. Also be careful not to break the neck of the tube.
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Thank you sarge!
Now the bigger question... do I run the risk of blowing my butt off if I attempt this? Would clipping the wires, stripping them and then switching them a few inches away from the scary tube have the same effect? (and will I shock my butt if I touch those wires?)
Why in the heck would you clip wires that have a detachable connector? Pull the damn thing off and reverse it. You may have to cut the connector IN THE MIDDLE to swap the wires you want, but that's it. It's a 1 minute operation.
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It doesn't look like it's detachable. I'm not home so I can't take a closer pic but in the first picture I posted of it, there's a small black piece of plastic or some other material and it looks like the wires are soldered there. The part I am talking about is directly in the dead center of the picture.
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The connector is right on the main board, IIRC it's right behind the flyback.
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It doesn't look like it's detachable. I'm not home so I can't take a closer pic but in the first picture I posted of it, there's a small black piece of plastic or some other material and it looks like the wires are soldered there. The part I am talking about is directly in the dead center of the picture.
I have no idea what you are looking at in that picture.... but the yoke wires are always unpluggable otherwise it would be damn difficult to remove the chassis for repairs and such.
As mentioned, look on the main chassis behind the flyback. Should be a four wire plug.
Read:http://www.therealbobroberts.net/yoke.html (http://www.therealbobroberts.net/yoke.html)
DO NOT MIX THE H & V WIRES !! They are paired, keep them that way.
So if you have 1-2-3-4 wires, flip 1&2 or 3&4. (whichever pair you need to for your situation) One set flips vertically, the other flips horizontally.
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Great, thanks for the info and the pictures. :notworthy:
I'll try this at home and respond with my results. If I never respond... I blew myself to kingdom come. Wish me luck! :dizzy:
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Oh... and no ... your monitor is not mounted upside down.
It's common to have to yoke flip for certain games.
So keep in mind that even if you flip the yoke for one particular game you can change the dips on some of the others as needed, but you may still come across a game that doesn't have dipswitches for that and it may show up upside down or backwards..... which would mean that you have to flip the yoke again for that game.
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OK I'm home, but it doesn't look like I can get access back there. I can't really see behind a black box that has the focus knob on it. I noticed that the PCB that is there is mounted with some screws. Would it be ill advised to remove those screws to pull the pcb out and make the necessary changes? I'm just really leery about sticking my hand back there when I can't see what I'm touching. :timebomb:
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There should be two screws holding the PCB in place. Remove them, and slide the PCB out so you can see what's going on there. As long as it's OFF the worst that can happen is you get zapped a bit, but that's unlikely.
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Yeah, Im not sure why whoever designed this decided to put the part that you'd want easy access to behind lots of equipment. I tried pulling the PCB out, but it's connected to another yoke/couple of wires that aren't very long and I can't seem to get a good angle to get in there.
Sheesh, you'd think it would be a switch or something simple.
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If you unplug the degaussing coil, video input connector, and remove the neckboard from the tube, you should have plenty of room to be able to get the plug off and do your business. If there are any wires with wire ties just cut the ties.
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Isn't the monitor supposed to be discharged before I pull any of that stuff off? I don't think I'm going to go in there. I appreciate all the help though, guys.
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Nope, only if you're going to pull the anode wire. You shouldn't have to.