The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: Cyberwhiz on October 29, 2008, 11:17:22 pm
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I need to know the value of the C550 cap for a NT-2701. A schematic or parts list would be even better but I would appreciate if anyone can just get me that particular value. Apparently it's not part of the cap kit.
Thanks in advance.
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The schematics and manual I have for this monitor do not even show a capacitor with a location of C550.
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Hi Ken
Here is a picture of where the cap is located. It's clearly labeled C550. Did I incorrectly identify the chassis ?
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Doesn't look like any 2701 chassis I've ever seen. Looking through the very few Neotec manuals I have doesn't show anything like it either.
You may have to email those pictures to tech support at www.neotecgraphic.com
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Ken
This is the exact same board identified as a NT-2701 on Jomac's website:
http://www.jomac.net.au/NT2701.jpg
not to mention it's labeled as such as well.
So, you have a NT-2701 manual and it doesn't show this board ? I was planning to purchase the manual as a last resort, no point doing so if it doesn't match.
Thanks
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The Neotec manuals covers the 2700, 2701, and 2702. None of the board pictures and schematics of what I have as of 2008 match what you have.
I still suggest you email Neotec and see what they have to say. Maybe they made changes during production?
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i have that neotec chassis-i will check the cap value for you
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c550 is 10uf 50v electrolitic
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C550 is a 10uF/50V bipolar electrolytic capacitor. Usually when it goes bad you have little or no horizontal size adjustment.
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Thank You ! :notworthy:
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Just to be clear on this: I found the casing for the damaged cap and it is a 10uf polarized cap, but the remains did look like there were two caps tied together, presumably to make a non-polarized cap. Now, as I understand it, when you tie two caps together in this fashion you end up with half the capacitance, which in this case would be 5uF. Should that cap actually be a 4.7uf 50v bipolar ?
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I can't vouch for someone else's hack but capacitors in series don't necessarily reduce the capacitance by half. It is actually equal to 1/(1/C1 + 1/C2 + ....). Capacitors in parallel add their capacitance to get your total capacitance. A bipolar cap is basically just two electrolytics connected in series, but with like polarities connected together, so someone probably just used two polarized caps to make a nonpolar cap. It needs to be a 10/50V bipolar.
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http://www.pinrepair.com/rush/
There is a good writeup on this monitor here.
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The 2700 series (2700, 2701, 2702) were made in two different versions: "Li-Chin" and "Full Family". To tell which version you have, simply look on the boards (remote adjustment, neckboard, main board) and the names Li-Chin or Full Family will be silkscreened on the boards.
I now have full Neotec manuals for both of these scanned.
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I just checked the "Full Family" manual and C550 is listed as a 10 uf @ 50v Bi-Polar electrolytic.
http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/Neotec%202700%20Full%20Family%20version.pdf (http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/Neotec%202700%20Full%20Family%20version.pdf)
For those who have the Li-Chin version, here is the manual:
http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/NT2700%20LiChin%20version.pdf (http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/NT2700%20LiChin%20version.pdf)
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The 2700 series (2700, 2701, 2702) were made in two different versions: "Li-Chin" and "Full Family". To tell which version you have, simply look on the boards (remote adjustment, neckboard, main board) and the names Li-Chin or Full Family will be silkscreened on the boards.
I now have full Neotec manuals for both of these scanned.
Ken thank you for providing all of this info. I have a quick question for you if you don't mind, I recently picked up a Rush 2049 which has a Neotec NT-2702 and the screen is horizontally stretched. When adjusting the pots on the Full Family board provided I noticed that a couple of pots don't do anything. I am currently at work at the moment but It think it was the H-SIZE. I am guessing either the Full Family board is bad or the actual pots are bad. Can I just replace them individually or would I need a new control board. If so is there anyone around that sells them? Thanks in advance.
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Some of the controls may no longer work because of bad electrolytic capacitors in the circuit. You probably need to recap that monitor.
Attached is a Full Family version capkit list.
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Some of the controls may no longer work because of bad electrolytic capacitors in the circuit. You probably need to recap that monitor.
Attached is a Full Family version capkit list.
Great I picked up a cap kit when I got the machine so I will start with that. Thanks for your help Ken. :cheers: