What's your budget for this?
Enough....
Thanks ! Your room looks great, wish I had so much space !!! It's really fun to see how other people build their game-rooms. You put a lot of glass in there !
I'm going to try to capture the feel of an intimate "dark" arcade. Apart from the doors, there will be no windows. This will require to install "service" lighting and "play" lighting. For the "play" lighting I will make a test-set up how the neon's will look combined. They produce a lot of light really.
I'm full of plans, not sure if all will work out but first I need the freaking permit :S
I'm full of plans, not sure if all will work out but first I need the freaking permit :S
You put a lot of glass in there !
Of course, I will have to pay for the permit too.
I'm full of plans, not sure if all will work out but first I need the freaking permit :S
You only need to request one, though? Here you also have to pay for one.
Of course, I will have to pay for the permit too.
Nice, Jim. Real nice.
How much electrical capacity do you plan on? How many circuits? Cooling or just passive venting?
I could also sum up a number of (other) advantages of living in this country compared to yours, but the last thing I want to do is turn this into a political debate.
Here's a quick & dirty 3d and 2d idea (couldn't find any more game 3D models, that explains all the DK's and Galaga's)Good choice. You can never have too many Galaga cabs :P
I could also sum up a number of (other) advantages of living in this country compared to yours, but the last thing I want to do is turn this into a political debate.
With "Korenwolf", do you mean the little rat that's on the endangered species list? :angel:I could also sum up a number of (other) advantages of living in this country compared to yours, but the last thing I want to do is turn this into a political debate.
One of the greatest has to be that you can get Korenwolf :cheers: and we can't! :'( One of my sisters-in-law lives in Alkmaar and I've got to say that I love the place. By the way, the game room plan looks pretty nice...
Anyway, Level42 better hope he doesn't have one of those critters his backyard or the the permit is not going to happen :P
So the way it works, you're going to be tearing down the neighboring walls of your neighbors sheds and putting new ones in? What do you do if the neighbor refuses to let you do so? That stops your project?
So yes, I do need to carefully take away "my" parts and make a nice wall against his shed (we'll leave the original seperating "wall" in there), but that is not too big a deal.
I'm not sure I get it. Why would you even need to tell them if you bought a prefab? People here buy them all the time. Even if they're custom, and sometimes very large, since they don't have concrete foundations, they're clear of regulation. Far as I know anyways.In the Netherlands you need a building permit if you build a structure in your backyard within one meter from the perimeter.
I'm not sure I get it. Why would you even need to tell them if you bought a prefab? People here buy them all the time. Even if they're custom, and sometimes very large, since they don't have concrete foundations, they're clear of regulation.
Savannah: The sheds do have walls inside, it's not like I have to share an "open" shed with my neighbors.
You can also build it like a houseboat or like roads in the "polder". Just use Styrofoam to compensate for the weight of the whole building, so it floats on the groundwater.Yup, exactly the plan Blanka ! And Trebeck: thank you !
And above all: use enough iron in the concrete. If your gameroom sinks, it sinks at one piece at least.
I could use some help ! (Patrick, you're most welcome ;) ;) )...I'm away for the weekend :angel: Besides, I actually have quite a lot of "klussing" to do myself :P
Since the neighbor wanted the parts, you shoulda let them in and break it down while you were busy with something else. Also, I would've put a good piece of foam between the marquee box and the pin table.He actually did get all the front side off. The blanket is enough protection. The temporary storage is at a friend who lives about 1 mile away and it's all 30 km (19 mph) zone driving up there so I drove up there nice and slow. I've transported the pinball from my brother-in-law's work to my home same way, no problem.
Day 3:
Started with cutting through the roofplate that my neighbor and I shared. I was lucky to have a "slijper", I don't know the English word for it but it's this machine:
(http://www.gereedschapswinkel.nl/catalog/images/9015bv.jpg)
The blanket is enough protection. The temporary storage is at a friend who lives about 1 mile away and it's all 30 km (19 mph) zone driving up there so I drove up there nice and slow. I've transported the pinball from my brother-in-law's work to my home same way, no problem.
This weekend Sinterklaas came to Singapore. I pitied him in his heavy tabard and itchy beard. It's currently 32 degrees here 8)Impossible he's in Singapore. He arrived here more than a week ago....the steamboat isn't that fast you know..... (http://www.hanslangbroek.nl/afbeeldingen/smiley%20sinterklaas1.gif)
Hey, you're having much better fortune than Hirschberg did. Your guys show up regardless of weather.Well, overhere people who you make a deal with tend to keep their promisses. And they better... :D
So the foam is sticking out now? Why is that?
I couldn't see the number of the truck. What was it?42 ;)
Ummon: you need a new monitor (or a bigger one) ;) ;)
Maybe that 2nd door is getting an interior wall and will be split off for storage?
Do you guys get a ton of wind there? 12" between studs is WAY WAY WAY overkill for such a small structure I'd think. You could have easily saved some $$ by going with 18" if not 24" gaps between studs. Around here, 18" is common for house construction, but even some "lower end" homes go with 24" spaces between studs...and that is for a 2 story home in Idaho with snow and quite a bit of wind.
That sucker is going to be quite sturdy...
Do you guys get a ton of wind there? 12" between studs is WAY WAY WAY overkill for such a small structure I'd think. You could have easily saved some $$ by going with 18" if not 24" gaps between studs. Around here, 18" is common for house construction, but even some "lower end" homes go with 24" spaces between studs...and that is for a 2 story home in Idaho with snow and quite a bit of wind.
That sucker is going to be quite sturdy...
Well frizz, here in the states we would also have built that shed on a 4x4 sled and just dropped it in place on the yard. Maybe a few blocks to level it out.
Obviously their building standards are much higher than what we have here for non-living structures.
And to make you real sick Level42, I can go buy an 18'x12' shed that looks like a house, have it delivered and leveled - all for about $3k. ;D
Oh, and no permits needed at all.
And to make you real sick Level42, I can go buy an 18'x12' shed that looks like a house, have it delivered and leveled - all for about $3k. ;D
Do you guys get a ton of wind there? 12" between studs is WAY WAY WAY overkill for such a small structure I'd think. You could have easily saved some $$ by going with 18" if not 24" gaps between studs. Around here, 18" is common for house construction, but even some "lower end" homes go with 24" spaces between studs...and that is for a 2 story home in Idaho with snow and quite a bit of wind.
That sucker is going to be quite sturdy...
And to make you real sick Level42, I can go buy an 18'x12' shed that looks like a house, have it delivered and leveled - all for about $3k. ;D
Oh, and no permits needed at all.
It should also be noted that in at least my area of the US you can't build a house with 18 or 24 between studs. It has to be 16 or less.
Where do you live Chad? I've heard of 18" or less (1.5') but never 16" or less...strange measurement.
Edit: nevermind...I am guessing when I say 18" I mean 16" because I've not accounted for the width of the stud itself...
I don't think there is any rule here about the center to center (we call it heart to heart) distance. Usually it's somewhere between 16" and 24" though.Just talked about it with a friend who studies to become an architect and that was the very thing he mentioned, the distance depends on the thickness of the beams. Which sounds pretty logical.
They calculate the wood thickness according to how far you space the beams. Smaller distance means smaller beams.
O and I put a plan of it in one of the first postings of this thread:
... pic removed ...
Looks great but I can't have my wife see this, she'll want me to have one and move all my stuff from MY basement to outside in a shed! :)We don't get much snow in the Netherlands, but still that's also a reason why these constructions are designed a bit more sturdy than you would think it needs to be. It has to be able to carry a load of snow.
Anyway, around here we don't often see a flat roof. Are these common over where you live? The idea behind our "pointy" alternative is because of all the #$%@%$@ snow we get :badmood:
For sheds they're common but the prefab sheds often have pointy roofs. There are also plenty of houses that have flat roofs (my first house had a "flat" roof). There's always a slight slope because of letting run the water off of course.Looks great but I can't have my wife see this, she'll want me to have one and move all my stuff from MY basement to outside in a shed! :)We don't get much snow in the Netherlands, but still that's also a reason why these constructions are designed a bit more sturdy than you would think it needs to be. It has to be able to carry a load of snow.
Anyway, around here we don't often see a flat roof. Are these common over where you live? The idea behind our "pointy" alternative is because of all the #$%@%$@ snow we get :badmood:
I've always wondered how a concrete constructed home would survive a hurricane like you have in some parts of the US.
Nice minimalist box! It looks more deep on the picture from above than on the plan. Did your back-neighbours build the same volume against yours?Yes indeed. They had built it before me.
That's just a normal bitumen-roof (sort of asphalt sheets). It is finished. The drain is the thing on the left, the pipe it should connect too is not there yet.Yup ! The water runs of towards the frontside because the roof is slightly sloped. There's no need for a really big angle.
Is the roof complete? What is the materials being used? While the photo above gives the appearance of a "canvas" type roof, I am sure that isn't the case? How does the rain/snow drain? The prior building appeared to be a simple lean-to type building with an angled roof...this doesn't appear to be angled plus there seems to be about a 3" lip around the top of the roof. I assume there is a drain?You can see the holes of the drains on my neighbors roof (he has two, left and right) in his "front lip"....
Did you annexate the back alley with the sheds?Oh, no no, there's no back alley behind my property or my back neighbors. To the right of my new shed, that neighbor also does not have a back alley, actually the alley for the other homes ends at his garden/yard.
Even in het Nederlands: Het brandpad loopt dus tot en met de tuin van mijn buren aan de rechterkant van mijn huis. Zoals je hebt kunnen zien heb ik een hoekwoning en wij kunnen dus in de tuin komen langs het huis. Scheelt weer een paar meter ;) Dit soort brandgangen voorkomt doorloop en inbrekers zijn er ook niet gek op dat ze maar 1 kant uit kunnen vluchten....)
Did you Babelfish the Dutch Kevin ? I just did and it's always a good laugh what Engrish it comes up with
It's been eight days and no updates! :badmood: A lot can happen in eight days.....:laugh:
Yeah we have similar set-ups here too (although not common), but I want to mount the wall-outlets pretty close to the floor. Also it would be hard to reach between the cabs (IF I have enough space to leave any room between them !) to flick the switch. Also, lots of machines have the power switch on the lower back so impossible to reach. So that's why I was looking for a way to centrally switch the cabs.
Thanks for your kind words. I sometimes feel I'm "over doing" it but I enjoy it as well and I always hope there are "lurkers" like you who follow the threads. I think the hit numbers indicate that quite a number of people enjoy reading it :)
I use the remote control outlets he mentioned and they are pretty good. I haven't had any issues. They allow you to turn games on with a remote 3 at a time. For the most part you really don't want to turn more than that on at once to avoid a massive powerup spike that will cause your shed to accelerate to 88mph and come out of hyperspace looking at not a moon but a space station.
Patrick: Yes some cabs do but most of them have the switch on the lower bottom side on the back. There's no way to reach it if you put the cabs next to each-other. That extension cord idea could have worked, but I wanted to be able to switch them in a central place (right next to the entry).
Patrick: Yes some cabs do but most of them have the switch on the lower bottom side on the back. There's no way to reach it if you put the cabs next to each-other. That extension cord idea could have worked, but I wanted to be able to switch them in a central place (right next to the entry).
Orion, you're right, that goes for about any project I think. But then I always calculate in overhead costs like this.
I always hope there are "lurkers" like you who follow the threads.
andre i hope i don't seem rude, i think you mean insulation for the walls , or when you say isolate are you talking about the electrics?Not rude at all, but you're absolutely right. In Dutch, the word for both isolation and insulation is "isolatie" so that caused my mix-up. Yes, insulation it is (rockwool) :)
:cheers:
:D Well, if that really happens, you know you're most welcome !
Awesome. And just the other day my wife said to me "someday we are going to the Netherlands."
;D
:D Well, if that really happens, you know you're most welcome !
Awesome. And just the other day my wife said to me "someday we are going to the Netherlands."
;D
Thanks Orion. Well the professional guys had two weeks time for the construction (but finished two days early). I'm doing the inside stuff myself because that's relatively easy and it also is nice to have the feeling to have build at least some of it myself. I'm going a bit slower than a pro would because it's all a first time for me and I tend to look at least twice before I do something (so it's right straight away). It's a great feeling to see the progress and I can't wait to get the neon's that I've stored for so long and install them and also of course to gather all my cabs back and roll them in.....goal is to be finished half January.
OK I understand, and I didn't mean to cause any confusion, please forgive me!Don't worry my friend, I was just trying to sort things out so we all understand what we meant :D I too got confused, hey construction isn't my every day job so it's fun to discover some new territory :D
To accomplish that you need to put some glassfiber "tape" on the seems to enforce them and then mud.You cannot put glassfiber tape on the rounded plasterboards if you don't plaster the whole wall/ceiling (or put something like thick wallpaper on top). If you do then the tape will show through. Instead you simply fill it with "seem filler" (like Knauf Uniflott (http://www.knauf.nl/downloads/documenten/technische_bladen/hulpproducten/voeg_en_afwerkmaterialen/tb_uniflott.pdf)). This is enforced with fibers to prevent cracking.
Today is second x-mas day here (yes we celebrate two of them :D) so I won't be doing anything. We're going to see Madagascar 2 today and the in-laws will be having dinner here.
But my company is closed until jan 5 so I have plenty of days to work on it. There's another good thing: Lot's of stores start sales here on 2nd x-mas day and the days after it.
Patrick: Thanks for setting that straight. As you can see I'm a no-no at this stuff. Knowing myself I probably will be ending up going for the perfect finish anyway..... :DWell since I'm still fixing my new house I'm knee deep in this kind of mess too :P I only used the water proof (green) plasterboards in the batroom though. For the rest I went with Ytong blocks and glass blocks. Just put one of these Ytong walls up and I'm now facing the daunting task of putting plaster on it :)
BTW you might know this (but it was new to me when they told me) you need to put primer (voorstrijk) on these plasterboards before you put any finish on them (painting, wallpaper, plaster, tiles).Yup, actually it's "Diepgrond", just picked up a bucket full of it :)
Actually, "Diepgrond" is for fixing walls that are loose (caulk or dust comes off). It glues the material of the wall together. "Voorstrijk" is for countering the water absorption. That should have been good enough for plasterboards. but then I guess diepgrond would work fine too. Just sounds more expensive. Plasterboard is not as bad (aborbant) as regular plaster anyway.BTW you might know this (but it was new to me when they told me) you need to put primer (voorstrijk) on these plasterboards before you put any finish on them (painting, wallpaper, plaster, tiles).Yup, actually it's "Diepgrond", just picked up a bucket full of it :)
We also have a winner on the vinyl.Look arcady yes. Although I think the arcades I went to had some sort of "muddy tiles with cigarette bun motif" on the floor :P What's with the price though? Is that 40 euro per m2?
So why is it I keep buying the wrong stuff. Yes "diepgrond" is pretty expensive. I read somewhere that that was what would be needed......ahhh well, will swap it ASAP.Well you need another primer for every application. It might be that you have the right product. I just thought that diepgrond was for loose plaster walls. The primer you use has to fit with the material you put it on (gipsplaten are not very absorbant) and with the material you want to put on it. In my bathroom we used some pinkish primer, for the toilet I think it was blueish and on the (plastered) walls I used latex primer. It's astonishing how many different options they have for everything. My "father in law" helped, but he's from Bulgaria so he knew what he needed, but not which brand/type. So we had to go through all the available options to figure out if it was what he was looking for.
Yeah Kev, but remember, we live like rats here....... ;)
and cigarette butts when i visit, but dont worry i wont just drop them on the floor, i'll rest them on the control panels when i play the games :P
Most of the flooring is going to be covered in games,
If you bring that 24" iMac for me I'll allow you to smoke in the gameroom ;). And you'll be the one and only ever :Dand cigarette butts when i visit, but dont worry i wont just drop them on the floor, i'll rest them on the control panels when i play the games :P
Most of the flooring is going to be covered in games,
About AC: usually summers are not that hot here.
Yeah, that's what I thought, I can always buy one of those. Or install a small fixed unit.Oh cool, the ceiling with little lights you mean? My GF will be so jealous. She likes to go through the carwash with me just because it has a star ceiling at the end :P
Today I will be creating the "star light roof"....wish me luck, this will be tedious...
Closed all the seams in the walls today. Yes, I'd decided to do it properly while I'm at it now. No way to "fix" it later. Also filled a couple of thousand (?) tack-holes, which is especially fun overhead....
You could do the "orange peel" technique, but its still not as easy to apply,
Thanks Bruno. It's weird. When the starlights are off, the black is really "coming at you" and gives a feeling like the ceiling is very low. However when the stars are on it gives a really roomy feel :D (Or should I say "spacey") :)
Frizz how is "orange peel" applied, I guess using a foam roller ?
If so, I think we call it structuurverf (structure paint).
I see, yeah we know that stuff overhere.Frizz how is "orange peel" applied, I guess using a foam roller ?
If so, I think we call it structuurverf (structure paint).
It's sprayed on usually.
I see, yeah we know that stuff overhere.Frizz how is "orange peel" applied, I guess using a foam roller ?
If so, I think we call it structuurverf (structure paint).
It's sprayed on usually.
The yellow will look good, but I am surprised it didn't cover better than that even for a first coat.I was assuming it's the primer.
Anyway, I had some second thoughts about the colors and returned them and traded them in for PAC MAN YELLOW !!!!
Must say the damn stuff doesn't cover very well. ;)
Well, that's what you get when you want to go the cheapest way possible. Another lesson learned....
Probably did but I still find it hard to understand that I have to pay €97,50 for the three boxes and €80,- for the (25) connectors.....Remember that there are 24 female connectors inside those boxes plus 24 switches and the boxes themselves and a cable and a fuse......and the boxes _are_ approved quality...Well, that's what you get when you want to go the cheapest way possible. Another lesson learned....
you haven't ever learned that lesson earlier in life... :P
Don't think I mentioned it, but the SW is working fine. I couldn't help but playing it for some time, cab in it's planned position. It was awesome to play at her new home :)
i think i'm in the Ahoy for two days from the 8th , close yes?Close ? Talk about close ! The Ahoy' is "around the corner" from where I live (ok, let's say a 15 minute drive). Bring the SI mat plus the Mac 24", I'll arange all the beer ;) ;) !!
i found a neon sign thing today where you just buy letters/ numbers to make up a sign, could make a level42's gameroom sign
i'll find the link
Came up with these two "designs". The first is rather narrow and tries to get as many "levels" of girders.
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100392/DSCF2375/web.jpg)
2nd option:
(http://gallery.me.com/andre.huijts/100392/DSCF2377/web.jpg)
Tried to stick to the original as much as possible here. Put the oil-barrel in there, but I guess I wouldn't do that for real. Just leave the ladders hanging from the lower girder and that's it.
amazing , you've taught them to speak ewok too ;)Bwaahhhh, if we would have held on a little longer to New-Amsterdam, the whole world would talk Dutch now ;)
Star Wars lost left-right control, just after I heard a "tock" sound inside. Turns out the small gear had come loose, I hope I have the right imbus key to lock it again.
100 euro's out the window. And not just that, but Patrick had been so kind to pick it up for me in Frankfurt and bring it to my home so many months ago......I'm sorry man. I feel totally sick by it.Holy cow! That's a shame. You're not getting mine :P
Oh wow, that's almost finished?Yes sir, the room itself is almost finished. Need to install one set of wall outlets still because apparently I bought too few of them.... still need to install the red neon tube, smoke detector, DK decals and some nice finish around the power switches. Will roll in the MB and Meteor tomorrow. And the Joust of course !
Question for people with game rooms: How do you pull a cab from a row ? Normally I put a cart at the back of the cab but can't do it when they're all next to eachother.
I think I've seen some kind of furniture movers that you can slide under a cabinet and the roll it away. I'd prefer that much compared to sliding the cabs (with often metal feet)......any suggestions ?
That set of movers I showed are €5.99 next saturday at Aldi...and I only need one set :)
Ha, cool. It's a shame they put so many metal parts on it though.Yeah, they're there to protect the neon tubes eh.... almost all of these kinds of neons have them. And it's not so noticeable in real circumstances, the flash brings it out much more than reality.
Cheap ? Well the problem with those is that I would have to equip each game with a set.....I'd need at least thirteen sets which makes over 200 bucks.....
I'm sure they are a good solution though. Thanks for the suggestion and thinking with me ! :D
That set of movers I showed are €5.99 next saturday at Aldi...and I only need one set :)
Congrats André....your gameroom turned out very well :applaud:Looks great Thorsten ! I thought about blacklight but I think I will have enough lighting with the 4 neon's, star-lights and halogen spots. But you never know, might add it later !
What about some blacklight? I just installed 4x2 tubes in our room. At first I installed them horizontal....the light was good but it looked boring. So I decided to hang them with an angle and it's far better :)
Orion, yeah sorry, I wasn't clear about that the sliders can be used for all cabs. About finding cabs: well, compared to the US it's a lot harder here, but sometimes it also has it's advantages. There are different cabs here and some are simply cheaper because there is less demand (like my SW cockpit :) ).
I'm _really_ happy with the tiles, espcecially now. There is still a lot of sand/dirt near the entry of the gameroom (will have to use the sand when we're going to work on the yard in spring) and it doesn't really matter now if I walk some sand in there. Simply brush it away are use some folding mob with a bit of soapy water. Even when it rains hard it's no problem to go in with wet shoes etc. When the DK stickers and neon are up there all (most) of the machines inside I will shoot a video and upload it. Thanks for the kind words and if you're ever in the area.....drop a message :)
The kid's just putting on a show for the camera.I don't think so. I've seen my son coming out of anaesthesia after surgery and I'm telling you it was _much_ worse than that.
I don't know how many fuses you installed but if your power all cabs on at the same time they drag a lot of current and the fuses might blow. We installed 60 separate switches in our gameroom to be able to turn every cab on and off if it's needed (or not). I really enjoy switching them on when we have a party....I then feel like I'm preparing a huuuge weapon to be used ;DYeah it's like powering up the canon of the Death Star :D
Maybe you can install a nice poster in a frame in front of the switches...with hinges so you can easily have access to the switches....so they would also be safe from unwanted fingers ;)
Officialy DONE !
The least favorite game was Missile Command, which in a strange way would also be the one game of this selection that I would let go off IF I really needed to.
Holland ;D
Where is the project at?Funny you'd ask right now. Actually the past week been doing "circumstantial" work for the Gameroom. It kinda looked like this:
I suggested to leave a quarter out of the circle to create a big Pac Man, but the plan didn't gain much enthusiasm with the wife..... :(
Spyri: sometimes you have to know when to put some water in the wine...... ;)
Simply more of the tiles/bricks...Spyri: sometimes you have to know when to put some water in the wine...... ;)
Well, in any case, what would you've put in that space? You could perhaps still ape the effect by staining either area.
Here's a quick & dirty 3d and 2d idea (couldn't find any more game 3D models, that explains all the DK's and Galaga's)
I wouldn't count on those being very accurate.Here's a quick & dirty 3d and 2d idea (couldn't find any more game 3D models, that explains all the DK's and Galaga's)
http://3darcade.mameworld.info/ (http://3darcade.mameworld.info/)
Models, models and more models, even of SW cockpit