Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: nexus6 on September 24, 2008, 08:53:27 am
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this seems to become difficult:
i want to build a drawer with a hinged controlpanel for a table.
the panel has to fold up when the drawer is nearly opnend so that the balltop of the stick dont touch the tabletop.
has anybody an idea how i can realize this? my brain is smoking at the moment :)
better watch the scribbles, so that you can see, what i want to explain ...
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Why not just recess the drawer so that the stick doesn't have to be folded?
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Why not just recess the drawer so that the stick doesn't have to be folded?
bacause i want to place the panel as high as possible.
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Don't use a simple hinge. Use a mortised hinge that gives you a greater range of motion. If I could recall the type I used on my CP top I would tell you. :P
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Here you go - I copied this guy. :) I was hunting for a solution, and this got me there. You don't have to use this *precise* hinge, but it should set you down the right path:
"I got the hinges from Home Depot. I think they are these:
http://www.libertyhardware.com/item/?ID=HC11SJC-NP-C5&FIN=NP
Typically, when you install these type of hinges on a cabinet door, the recessed hole is drilled in the door itself.
http://home.comcast.net/~stoli16/mame/construction/target9.html
But for the CP application, you have to think a little outside the box and mount them the other way around.
http://home.comcast.net/~stoli16/mame/cp/target3.html
If I remember correctly, this is what I did:
1. I could not mount them symetrically because they would have interfered with the wiring and button controls on the underside of the CP, so I found a good spot for each hinge that would provide support when the hood was open and didn't interfere with the conrols and wiring.
2. Next I drilled the holes for the recessed portion of the hinges. I think I just put the hinge in the closed position (about 90 degrees) and measured to determine where the center of the hole would go in relation to the top lip of the "tray". At any rate, there is about 3/16" between the top lip of the tray and the top of the recessed hole(s).
3. Then I made a little mark on the outside (front) of the tray so I could tell where the centerline of each hinge was after I put the CP top on the tray.
4. I put the CP top on the tray and positioned it exactly where I wanted it. Then ran a marker along the front edge of the tray and the underside of the CP. I also marked the centerline of each hinge on the uderside of the CP using the mark I made in step 3.
5. Then I removed the CP top from the tray. Figured out where to mount the hinge brackets on the underside of the CP taking into account the 3/4" thickness of the wood from the line I drew on the underside of the CP in step 4.
6. Next, I took the hinges apart and mounted the brackets to the underside of the CP and the other portion to the recessed holes in the side tray. Then attached the hinges together and made the necessary adjustments to get the hood to open and close just right.
-Stoli "