Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: glonq on September 11, 2008, 01:55:24 am
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I'd like to build a bartop. I don't think I have the right tools for the job yet, but I don't want to buy a crapload of tools right now. Is a router the most versatile thing I can get?
Right now, I have these:
- A circular saw (too clumsy for most cab work)
- A dremel (too small for most cab work)
- A power drill (for pilot holes, button/joystick holes)
- A chop saw (useless for cabs?)
I know a router will be good for edges, holes, the t-molding slot, and more. Can I use it to cut the outline of my cab from 3/4" MDF, or do I need to buy a jigsaw for that?
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i am just finishing building my first cab, but from what i know,
you have to use the jigsaw at least for the first sidepanel. the second panel you can do with the router and "copy"-bit.. don't know it's exact name, but with that bit you can trace and cut-out the second panel perfectly.
to be honest, i mostly used my jigsaw and circular saw for straight cuts, and than sand a lot.
but you can better use a router for straight lines from what i have seen / heard.
a router also makes very nice circular holes and speaker slots from what i have seen.
but i am going to use my router for the first time today or tomorrow when i am cutting the t-molding slot.
a little scared of the router :)
good luck!
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What about making a CAD file and have the whole stack of crap CNC'ed :applaud:?
(http://www.tech-designs.com.au/images_content/cnc_machine.jpg)
The only tool doing all!
Table-saw, hand-saw and router is the most versatile/precise set when DIY at home. For tiny things a fret-saw can be a marvelous piece of equipment too (forget that kids-hobby-club-christmastree-sawing nightmares)
(http://zo-d.com/stuff/images/Grizzly-1023S-1023SL-Tablesaw.jpg)
For the bulk . It is not very practical to buy yourself, but boy find yourself a woodworking shop where they have it. Its worth one Million donkey kong points! Did I say 1/5th mm and 1/10th degree angular precision! Try that with your hand-gear.
(http://www.toolstation.com/images/library/stock/webbig/54597.jpg)
For the sharp angles, those last cm's a table-saw cannot reach. It is better than a jigsaw for these last bits as it is wanker-arm-operated, so no going too far, the width of the cut is more simalar to the table saw blade and the cut is very straight.
(http://roseantiquetools.com/store/media/saws/pr5401000.jpg)
For weird shape joystick/trackball holes.
(http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/TritonRouter/TritonRouter.gif)
For large round holes (speakers/trackball), curves and T-molding.
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You can do the straight cuts for a cab just fine with a circular saw and a straightedge guide (home made or not). Lots of people do it all the time without having a tablesaw... in fact, for an inexperienced operator, cutting full sheets on a tablesaw is just dangerous.
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You can do the straight cuts for a cab just fine with a circular saw and a straightedge guide (home made or not). Lots of people do it all the time without having a tablesaw... in fact, for an inexperienced operator, cutting full sheets on a tablesaw is just dangerous.
There's always that man willing to help..... even easier!
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The DeWalt Track Saw: (called the plunge saw in Europe, no info for it on the US site yet)
http://www.dewalt.co.uk/ontrack/UK/index.html (turn down your volume low before you click)
I got to play around with one at the International Woodworking Fair a couple weeks ago. This is one sick tool. Comes out in November for around $400 the guy said. I'm going to buy one as soon as they are available and plan to write up a nice review.