Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: GameTech on September 05, 2008, 12:19:10 am
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I've got an original Pac Man cabinet (stand up) and it has a metal control panel that was from another game possibly. It's classes sheet metal.... I want to add more buttons as it only has 2 per player... How or what is the best (cheapest) way to drill new arcade button holes into this type of material? I cant find drill bits at my local box store that big around for metal...they are all for wood (spade type bits)..
Any help..? Thanks !!! :cheers:
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• Hole saw:
(http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/892/holesawrh3.jpg)
• Metal punch:
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410VZ2F4X3L._SL500_AA280_.jpg)
• Stepped drill bit:
(http://fjr1300.info/howto/images/uni-bit.jpg)
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Well that hole saw is not for metal. It needs much finer teeth for metal. But I suggest you find a metal workshop. They have the punching machines. They work best on already bent and decorated material. If the metal is flat and unfinished, you could try a laser or water cutter, but punching one hole must be easiest and probably free of charge.
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Well that hole saw is not for metal. It needs much finer teeth for metal.
First of all, that's irrelevant. It is simply an example picture to show what a hole saw looks like, so he can look for it at his local hardware store; and secondly, you are wrong. Here is another hole saw:
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/413CACWKC9L._SL500_AA280_.jpg)
Does that one also need "much finer teeth for metal"?
Product Details:
The D180056 Features: Optimized tooth design for superior performance while cutting metal. * M3 steel provides faster cuts and longer life than the M2 steel of the industry standard product. * Thick, hardened backing plates prevent warping at holes and increases cycle. * Versatility of deep-cut style allows users to cut either wood or metal.
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The second one you show is very different. It has all teeth in line, not one outwards, one inwards, and indeed the teeth are much smaller. You won't find that in your local hardware store, but only in a dedicated tool shop. And I bet is does not come cheap in that De Walt flavour. Just find a punch-tool. You can also try the model-shop of any artistic/construction school.
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The second one you show is very different. It has all teeth in line, not one outwards, one inwards,
What of it? That's known as variable pitch. Some are variable pitch, some are constant pitch. That has nothing to do with whether they are suitable for metal or not. Most all-purpose hole saws are variable pitch, like the red one; for example - link (http://catalog.starrett.com/catalog/catalog/groups.asp?GroupID=199).
and indeed the teeth are much smaller.
No, they are not. The teeth are actually larger relative to the body of the hole saw than in the first picture of the red hole saw.
You won't find that in your local hardware store, but only in a dedicated tool shop. And I bet is does not come cheap in that De Walt flavour.
Again, what of it? Your claim that the pictured red hole saw is not for metal because it needs much finer teeth for metal is plain wrong.
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settle down ladies, not every fight is worth having.
I did mine with a drill bit and a hole punch. cake walk.
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I prefer punches, but bi-metal hole saws work dandy. You can find bi-metal hole saws at any hardware store. They don't leave as clean of a hole, but the button covers it all up anyway. Look on ebay for greenlee punches if you want to go that route, used ones can be had cheaply if you are patient.
If you are local to me, you can borrow a punch...don't see a location in your profile.
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You have to be careful with those hole punches that are pictured (commonly known in the trade as Knockout Punches.)
They cut a hole bigger than they are marked for, because they cut holes for conduit and fittings to install in.
Conduit measurements are marked inside diameter. Knock out punches are marked inside diameter also, but they actually cut outside diameter. Plus good ones are rather expensive, so i just thought id throw that in so if anyone plans to go out and buy one they will know.
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OK thanks for info guys... Yeah, I'm having a hard time finding something to cut such a "large" hole in this metal control panel without marking up the brand new overlay thats on it. I will check for punches, and more..
Oh, I'm in the Seattle/Olympia area of Washington State.
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They cut a hole bigger than they are marked for, because they cut holes for conduit and fittings to install in.
Good point, but I'll add: That is true for ones made for conduit, but there are also punches that are labeled at the exact measurement they cut...this is the kind I have.
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OK thanks for info guys... Yeah, I'm having a hard time finding something to cut such a "large" hole in this metal control panel without marking up the brand new overlay thats on it.
The buttons bezel will cover up any slight damage from the holes saw, but if you can hold out for a punch there will be less worry.
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It's always going to be more difficult to work with metal panels; especially modding it from original. Patching it up is more work than with wood. If you don't feel comfortable modding the panel, consider knocking up a fresh one from wood and use a bit of filler and a sander to retain any curvature the original panel may have had.
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a 1" conduit punch is almost perfect for button holes, on a few I took my dremel's grinder bit to make it a hair bigger but again, couldnt complain.
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I got some of the Happs buttons... that state 1.125" opening required... Thus, I need a 1-1/8th" punch, right?
Yes, metal is nice and firm and should last forever, but adding a couple buttons is a pain...
Thanks for help.