Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: ratzz on August 28, 2008, 05:24:45 pm
-
What have you guys done?
All the way round (excluding the bottom), or just up to the top back edge?
Ratzz :cheers:
-
All the way around (except for the bottom). It just looks better, IMO. :cheers:
-
I usually do not do the bottom or back. I guess it is just personal preference.
-
I would do all the way around (excluding the bottom). T-molding is cheap (if you aren't me). And it's easy to install (especially on the back). While people will not generally see the back of the cab, they will never see the bottom of the cab. Those are two very different things that, IMO, separates t-molding on the back from t-molding on the bottom. When you do see the back of your project it will look unfinished. I say why have something that looks unfinished when you could finish it for a couple of dollars and fifteen minutes more work?
-
Thanks guys ...
I think I will go all the way round (excluding the bottom). I guess t-molding also potects the edges from knocks that would dent MDF.
I know its only about 25 pence a foot, but by doing the back I will be left with about 12' spare from my second 20' coil and I hate waste!
I will offer up the spare (white) t-molding here for the cost of postage, if anyone can use it...
Thanks again ... :cheers:
-
My t-molding was outrageously expensive because it's made of brushed aluminum. Thank god I bought it years ago when I had plenty of disposable income. ;D Even still, I got enough to go around the back side.
-
I went all the way around starting at mid bottom and ending at mid bottom. My cab sits on coasters that bring the bottom off the floor by an inch. I just thought in case anyone drops a drink ( like my son ) it's just that much added MDF edge protection..plus I think it looks more "complete" this way.
P
-
I picked up a TMNT cabinet from 1990. There was no t-molding on the back. If I were going for a 100% authentic restoration, I couldn't put t-molding on the back. That said, I'm now thinking of cutting a slot and put some back there when I turn it into my 2 on 2 Open Ice Mame, as shmokes makes a darn good point.
-
I didn't put it on the back of my upright, and IMO it only looks unfinished if you had cut a slot but had no T-molding on it.
On the other hand, my bartops all have it on the back because its far more likely you'd see the back or could tell from the sides.
-
I did the back in case I wanted to lay the cab down in the bed of a truck. So far I haven't but it is nice to know that the area would be protected.
-
T molding isn't giong to protect the edges from damage when bearing the weight of the cab. It protects against normal wear and tear from use but it won't help you much if you lay the thing down on the T molding. You're way better off laying it down on a couple of old comforters.
-
Does anybody know what the proper size slot cutter I should by in order to insert a couple of old comforters into my side panels?
-
2 feet, I think, if you're using polyester filled. 2.25 feet if it's down.
-
A word of advice, though. PLEASE make sure that your house's doors are wide enough to get the cab through once you've drilled those slots and installed the comfort-molding. If not, you'll have to wait and do the slot cutting inside, and that's going to cause a pretty big mess! ;D
-
2 feet, I think, if you're using polyester filled. 2.25 feet if it's down.
Honestly, who is going to go through all the effort and expense of building his own arcade cabinet, and then throw a polyester comforter in the edges. I can't fathom why they even make the 2' blades. Surely nobody buys them.