Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Arcade Collecting => Restorations & repair => Topic started by: RetroACTIVE on August 18, 2008, 05:00:19 pm
-
I've begun restoration of a Nintendo (Popeye converted to a Vs.) to a Donkey Kong 2. Like I said... not sure if this is a restore or project thread... either way... it will have original DK boardset + wiring + power supply.
As you can see, I've dismantled the cabinet as best I could without damaging it. I didn't have to pry anything apart hardly at all since all of the glue holding the blocks has given out...
These first few pics represent 2 days of bondo and primer primer work... plus a little woodworking as I had to re-fab the base.
Anyhoo... it begins.
-
more pics
-
Given that it's part of the Donkey Kong legacy, I think you're in the right place.
Can't wait to see it.
-
Ok... got the blue applied... I used Sherwin Williams industrial marine grade enamel... WHAT A PAIN!
Rustoleum... believe it or not a much better paint for this app. It thins better and it spreads better... The only thing that would work for a thinner with this paint was 100% mineral spirits... any other thinner goobered up the finish!
-
Here are a couple more pics of the other panels
-
Here are the Sherwin Williams codes for Sapphire Sparkle. The industrial enamel is labeled "gloss" finish but the paint is really more like satin-semi.
-
Looking good. Just wondering why you went with marine finish? Is gloss too glossy? My Sherwin Williams couldn't mix the Sapphire Sparkle for some reason. They said it would be to bright so I went to the independent Pratt and Lambert that my "normal" hardware/paint store (where I buy all my Valspar laytex) sent me. He knew how to mix it and it's about 98%-99% the same as the flat Behr paint swatch. Just wonder if they could of mixed it using a different finish like I suggested.
-
Looking good. Just wondering why you went with marine finish? Is gloss too glossy? My Sherwin Williams couldn't mix the Sapphire Sparkle for some reason. They said it would be to bright so I went to the independent Pratt and Lambert that my "normal" hardware/paint store (where I buy all my Valspar laytex) sent me. He knew how to mix it and it's about 98%-99% the same as the flat Behr paint swatch. Just wonder if they could of mixed it using a different finish like I suggested.
The SW guy said that the marine enamel was the only oil based that the sapphire sparkle would be able to be properly matched. The paint is spec'd as gloss but its not at all glossy, more of a satin finish.
-
Putting it back together a little bit at a time... ( finding the time is the real issue here ;) )
-
I chose to re-fab the ledger... it had gotten wet and shrunk up a bit.. pulling from the edges... I will be laminating it with the left over black laminate from my MAME cab project (eons ago as it seems).
:cheers:
-
Ok... I've been able to free up some time for my own projects over the past few days... made some good progress on this fellow... About 3 weeks ago I received my first batch of artwork from ThisOldGame... Included in the package was the CPO (w/instruction card), Marqee, and coin labels.
Here is the overall look... as you can see I've used a 19" plastic bezel trimmed to fit, I will add a paper flap on the back to connect to the roof of the cab so to blacken the whole interior... (BTW: It looks like there is a purity issue with the monitor... there isn't that's just the way the pic came out)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115224;image)
I'm still waiting for the bezel and side art... but its playable and really really fun!
Back side:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115226;image)
I've not finished fixing the rear door panel... it has some crunchy edges... I will bondo it up and re-rabbet the end... the repaint it.
Control Panel:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115228;image)
This thing kicks but, I'm wicked pleased with the quality of the CPO... I rebuilt the panel using a MikesArcade repro stick and original nintendo (jump) button... the P1 and P2 are not Nintendo sized but look good just the same and do not detract from game play as they are not used!
Monitor:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115232;image)
I chose to use a new D7700 tube and chassis, fit to the Sanyo frame... (Not to worry no Sanyo monitor was harmed in the making of this ;) ). It looks great! plus it has the remote control board which is handy for making adjustments in FRONT! I used Markvp's old technique for fitting the tube in the chassis... also it needed to be de-gaused to fix the purity issues as a result of flipping it on its side.
Power Supply:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115230;image)
I used the original power supply and wiring harness... notice I painted the inside of the whole thing purple gloss paint... It makes it nice for keeping it clean and this cab had a bit of water damage so I really wanted to clean, prime and seal with a new coat of paint. So I painted just about every piece of bare wood in it.
PCB:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115234;image)
Not much to say... your basic 2 board set w/Braze kit upgraded to DK2
Paint/Finish:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115236;image)
This paint was a total pain in the rear to work with... but in the end it really really looks solid. The pics make it look a lot brighter than it really is.
Whats left:
Side art
Front Bezel
Coin Door refinish (On the fence whether to powder coat or just paint it...)
Fix/Paint rear door
Install wheels.
I couldn't be happier with the way this has turned out...
-
Looks awesome Jim!!! I can't wait to get a DK, and I will definitely be getting DK2 roms. I played a couple of games at FrizzleFried's house last month and that was enough to convince me to get it.
-
Very nice !
:applaud:
-
That will be the nicest DK2 cabs in the world right there.
Great job!
Get those original start buttons too!
:)
-
Jim, the more I think about your project and your pictures of it, the more I feel inspired to eventually do one too! Not sure if I'd have both a DK and a DK2. Maybe if I end up getting a DK cab that's not in great shape, I'll restore it as a DK2 cab and have that as my only DK. And if I end up getting a nice condition DK then I'd have to later get another cab to convert to DK2. It would be kinda cool to have DK and DK2 side by side. ;D
-
Jim, the more I think about your project and your pictures of it, the more I feel inspired to eventually do one too! Not sure if I'd have both a DK and a DK2. Maybe if I end up getting a DK cab that's not in great shape, I'll restore it as a DK2 cab and have that as my only DK. And if I end up getting a nice condition DK then I'd have to later get another cab to convert to DK2. It would be kinda cool to have DK and DK2 side by side. ;D
I thought that too.. I have a DK on it's back in my garage in the beginnings of a restore. Probably going to sell it cause of space issues. Besides I can play both DK and DK2 in the DK2 cab... so it suits my space requrements.
-
This is one freaking sweet restore/project. !
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
-
Thanks for all the compliments!
I've decided to paint the coin door. If I don't like it I can always have it blasted and powder coated another day. I have a local powder coating shop so it's no biggie.
I also am going to use fishpaper for the paper flap to be attached to the bezel and cab top. It's tougher than poster paper and I will be able to paint it well.
-
I've cleaned up painted and put new mechs in the coin door
Here is the face of it... Sorry about the lighting... I really have crappy lighting in my basement and the flash really kills the pic..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115902;image)
I purchased brand new coin mechs... (expensive... but they look great)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115904;image)
Here is a pic of the front with the coin mechs installed
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115906;image)
Inside
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115908;image)
Wiring is next...
-
Very nice. Those mechs look awesome. :)
-
Nice! Yeah, this is a project where you wouldn't want to go with used mechs unless they were in immaculate shape or had no other alternative.
-
Great restoration/creation!
I'm Lovin' DKII by the way, hard but fun!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115904;image)
those coin mechs are awesome!
Where did you find them?
NEED... TO... HAVE...!
for my DK/DKII cab!
-
Gotta love it when a product still is 100% the same as 28 year ago :)
Those are the very mechs that Nintendo installed originally. My RS/MB has the same mech and apart from the front plate, it almost looked like new inside still. The basis is all aluminum so no rust :)
IIRC some people ordered it directly from the US office of Asahi Seiko:
http://www.asahiseikousa.com/html/roll_downkwm740.html
Expect to pay almost 40 bucks per unit !
-
It's not complete the same, this one is brushed stainless instead of aluminium, but for 17,95 euro a good deal too at Jan's arcadeshop:
(http://www.arcadeshop.de/images/arcade-coinslot-steel2eu.jpg)
-
Wow those coin mechs are awesome looking. I might have to try and order some (even at $40) once I finish my DK restoration...
-
They are real pleasant over at AsahiSeiko...easy to deal with. They do also sell replacement parts, faceplates, coin catchers, etc! These mechs have 12VDC lockout coils I plan on hooking up as well to a secondary 12VDC power supply.. I know it's not stock but will be cool just the same.
I've got the door wired now...I rewound the coin counter back to zero, put a credit into each mech and now my counter is at a whopping 2! I love the sound of the counter...it adds a real kick when a coin is dropped. 8)
-
They are real pleasant over at AsahiSeiko...easy to deal with. They do also sell replacement parts, faceplates, coin catchers, etc!
What ? Great ! I need a coin catcher (missing) and a new front plate would be great too.Do they have a price list or something ? If so it might be handy to attach here.
Blanka: Yeah I saw that one before and e-mailed to ask about about the size of the front-plate.
I know these mechs come in different sized front-plates. Never got a reaply.
-
Mech: KWM-10013, $38.00 ea
Faceplate: KWM-3002-14, $4.00 ea
Return Cup (large): KWM-3034-10, $4.40 ea
The return cup is not the U shaped catcher that comes stock with the mech, it's the original enclosed catcher...
-
Finally got the coin door rewired.... I added a 12VDC power supply to power the lockout coils... it works on 100-240VAC so I could plug it into the extra ac outlet of the power supply... 8)
Coin Door:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=116326;image)
AC-DC 12V power supply... I picked it up at coolerguys.com it has a standard PC type molex connector on it... I made my own cable and that was all she wrote... works fantastic... Its a 2 Amp supply... I checked each lockout coil uses about 110 mA ... so its more than capable of handling the two coils...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=116328;image)
I will be working the back panel next... I've repaired the loose laminate... I will have to bondo the corners... its a pain cause its cold out now so I can't really work in the garage... and bondo is too fumy for the basement...
-
Very nice. Almost looks like mine. :)
Can you please let me know how you reset the coin counter?
-
Very nice. Almost looks like mine. :)
Can you please let me know how you reset the coin counter?
I took the cover off of it, removed the spring and the advance lever thingie.... Then I hooked a rubber wheel up to my dremel, ran the dremel at lowspeed with the wheel pressed up against the least significant digit and ran the thing back.
Worked like a champ! I made the rubber wheel out of hot melt glue...it was soft enough so that it did not burn or screw up the plastic on the counter wheel.
-
Very nice. I've ordered the DK2 kit also, but don't have a cab to put it into. I have a DK but don't want to convert it as it's not too bad...
Perhaps you are aware, but prok http://www.gamestencils.com (http://www.gamestencils.com) has a set (clear top and black 'inner') of joystick dust washers for sale now. Since it looks like you don't have either... (me neither)
Rick
-
Perhaps you are aware, but prok http://www.gamestencils.com (http://www.gamestencils.com) has a set (clear top and black 'inner') of joystick dust washers for sale now. Since it looks like you don't have either... (me neither)
Rick
Oh yeah... I'm going to pick one up ;)
-
Mech: KWM-10013, $38.00 ea
Faceplate: KWM-3002-14, $4.00 ea
Return Cup (large): KWM-3034-10, $4.40 ea
The return cup is not the U shaped catcher that comes stock with the mech, it's the original enclosed catcher...
Thanks, so does that mean they don't have the U-shaped coin catcher ? Seems a bit strange as they are still on the complete coin mechs ?
Anyway, I'll drop them a mail, I just discovered that my Meteor has Asahi Seiko coin-mechs too and there's a (big) coin-catcher missing there too.....
-
Thanks, so does that mean they don't have the U-shaped coin catcher ? Seems a bit strange as they are still on the complete coin mechs ?
Anyway, I'll drop them a mail, I just discovered that my Meteor has Asahi Seiko coin-mechs too and there's a (big) coin-catcher missing there too.....
Nope... They have them both... I have another restore where I needed the large catcher and had no need to purchase the U version seperately... hence I don't have the part number. They did have it at the time I asked.
:cheers:
-
Great restoration/creation!
I'm Lovin' DKII by the way, hard but fun!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=115904;image)
those coin mechs are awesome!
Where did you find them?
NEED... TO... HAVE...!
for my DK/DKII cab!
I sand blasted then painted the faces w/ Metallic Silver and clear coat and they look nice. Not brushed I know but very nice. Does anyone know "IF" they sell the non "U" version that is on my DK Jr.? I know these were used for years.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f163/audiomidiman/D2K%20Project/DSCN6450.jpg)
-
Not sure, you may have to buy the U version, then purchase the large catchers separately and swap them out yourself.
-
By "non-u" are referring to the old school ones in the pick we have fondly come to refer to as "the ear" thingy.
-
By "non-u" are referring to the old school ones in the pick we have fondly come to refer to as "the ear" thingy.
Ear thingy is a perfect description! This is what the manufacturer refers to as the "Large Return Cup".
-
FWIW, Steve's Pinball Resource sells the whole NOS mech for the DK JR lever style for $10 in a whole bunch of token sizes. I was going to buy a set, but even at $10 I passed after repainting my front plates (ended up looking like new anyway). Figured someone might want these for a similar project.
Wade
-
I was able to secure two (pricey) blue NOS Nintendo buttons from videogameparts.com... being the AR person that I am I couldn't resist...
(http://home.comcast.net/~retro-active1/pwpimages/DKPanelWithNOSButtons_comp.jpg)
Here is a pic of the machine as it sits and waits for the remainder of its identity (artwork)... I will post a final pic when I get the rest of the artwork package from ThisOldGame.... then we'll be done!
(http://home.comcast.net/~retro-active1/pwpimages/DK2Full_comp.jpg)
-
Looking great! Of course the DK bezel is out of place so it will look even better when you get the DKII bezel. TOG is really close to me. I'm hoping to get over to meet Rich and check out his operation sometime soon!
-
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
-
I was missing the wingnuts that hold the pcb on the L brackets... I was able to find replacements from mcmaster...
92625A315
STYLE 4 METRIC 18-8 SS WING-HEAD THUMB SCREW, M5 THREAD, 25MM LENGTH, 0.8MM PITCH
(http://home.comcast.net/~retro-active1/pwpimages/Wingnuts.jpg)
-
Where can I buy the mounting screws for the coin mechs on a DK coin door? Looks like they may have been included with the new mechs? Are they available separately?
-
Where can I buy the mounting screws for the coin mechs on a DK coin door? Looks like they may have been included with the new mechs? Are they available separately?
I've not seen them separately... you may have better luck finding some used ones. The last time I checked videogameparts.com had some.
-
Where are people buying these new coin mechs pictured above in the US?
Are the $10 Pinball Resource DK Jr ones the same?
They look very nice, but is the "ear" coin catcher easily swapped in for the "U" shape one that appears to be included with the new mech?
-
Where are people buying these new coin mechs pictured above in the US?
Are the $10 Pinball Resource DK Jr ones the same?
They look very nice, but is the "ear" coin catcher easily swapped in for the "U" shape one that appears to be included with the new mech?
The coin selectors for this restore were purchased directly from AsahiSeiko (www.asahiseikousa.com). You have to call them, as they do not have a web store. I emailed them first and a sales rep responded. As far as the pinball resource ones... I'm not sure you would have to check with them. Swapping the coin catcher is easy... you have to simply unscrew it from the inside of the faceplate which may involve removing the faceplate first. :cheers:
-
You know, you should really write this up for GameRoom Magazine -- people want to read about cool restos and this certainly qualifies.
:cheers:
-
It's a shame to waste NOS blue buttons on a D2K, I can't think of a better candidate for the aftermarket buttons. Save the NOS one's for your authentic Kongs.
My 2 cents.
-
You know, you should really write this up for GameRoom Magazine -- people want to read about cool restos and this certainly qualifies.
:cheers:
Hey man thanks for the compliment!... I would love to do a write up, it would be really really neat!
:cheers:
It's a shame to waste NOS blue buttons on a D2K, I can't think of a better candidate for the aftermarket buttons. Save the NOS one's for your authentic Kongs.
My 2 cents.
I hear ya but I think maybe "waste" is a bit harsh... I mean if it were a x-in-1 or some other conversion... I'd agree with you. Besides those two NOS buttons will see very little action... so they will be well cared for in my warm home... ;)
-
You know, you should really write this up for GameRoom Magazine -- people want to read about cool restos and this certainly qualifies.
:cheers:
Hey man thanks for the compliment!... I would love to do a write up, it would be really really neat!
:cheers:
Well, then, since I don't need you to fix my stupid Joust sound board ... ;)
-
Being anal:
Is it me or is that jump button unusually high up ? (Compare it to the P1/P2 buttons).
-
Being anal:
Is it me or is that jump button unusually high up ? (Compare it to the P1/P2 buttons).
You are correct sir! I had 2 orange buttons to choose from, one had bad coloring and that one, which the retainer clip slot was a bit off, causing the difference in height you see.
I opted for the cleaner colored one ;)
-
If it bothers you, you could shim the button down a tad. A thin washer would work but may be slightly 'rattlely' or an o-ring would do the same without the rattle.
Rick
-
If it bothers you, you could shim the button down a tad. A thin washer would work but may be slightly 'rattlely' or an o-ring would do the same without the rattle.
Rick
Yeah I thought of that too... but I'm ok with it as is though as it's original whether I like it or not ;)
-
Excellent work! I am looking for the original blue and orange nintendo buttons, videogameparts.com is out of stock do you know anywhere else that would sell them? They are out of stock for the nintendo marquee bulb, is that a common bulb that can be found at a Lowes or HD?
-
Excellent work! I am looking for the original blue and orange nintendo buttons, videogameparts.com is out of stock do you know anywhere else that would sell them? They are out of stock for the nintendo marquee bulb, is that a common bulb that can be found at a Lowes or HD?
The buttons are a pain to find... If someone would repro them, they would sell well!
It's a 100V bulb and is special... I've never purchased one but everytime it's brought up most people say topbulb.com is the place to get it.
-
Excellent work! I am looking for the original blue and orange nintendo buttons, videogameparts.com is out of stock do you know anywhere else that would sell them? They are out of stock for the nintendo marquee bulb, is that a common bulb that can be found at a Lowes or HD?
I ordered mine from Mike's Arcade. They were pricey ($15) but at the end of the day and over the life of the cab $15 is nothing for some original Nintendo buttons!
-
What's the difference between NOS Nintendo buttons and the $5 Nintendo buttons from Mike's Arcade? Is it just the originality factor of owning a real Nintendo button?
-
What's the difference between NOS Nintendo buttons and the $5 Nintendo buttons from Mike's Arcade? Is it just the originality factor of owning a real Nintendo button?
Mike's are not exact in color and shape as original Nintendo and for most it's irrelevant. I think Mike's may even be out of replacements at this point too.
-
The originals are different than the repros, the original have a distinct midnight-blue hue to them and are tall with a more pronounced edge around them. They really don't look like the repros at all - other than being in the blue family of color.
-
Tracking number came today from TOG! :applaud:
-
Side art arrived today! :) Still waiting on the bezel and ID plate.
Hopefully Ill get this stuff applied soon... I've got zero time this summer :(
-
Well... this is the first machine that I put my blood sweat and cash into then turned around and sold. I'm happy it is in the hands of a true DK/DK2 fan. I on the other hand was more interested in the build than the game itself. The cash is going into a pin purchase so its all good.
Good bye #35 (I did finally get the ID plate, just in time to sell the machine HA!)
-
Wow, I'd never let go of a beauty like that...but if you prefer pins.
Did you ever make pics with the side art installed ?
-
Wow, I'd never let go of a beauty like that...but if you prefer pins.
Did you ever make pics with the side art installed ?
I did take some really nice parting shots... I will make them my final post to this thread.
-
Yes it was a very nice machine.... and the gent who picked it up drove for approx 7 hours to get it ... he was thrilled!
(http://home.comcast.net/~retro-active1/pwpimages/DK2_35_F%20copy.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~retro-active1/pwpimages/DK2_35_L%20copy.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~retro-active1/pwpimages/DK2_35_R%20copy.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~retro-active1/pwpimages/DK2_35_CP%20copy.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~retro-active1/pwpimages/DK2_35%20copy.JPG)
-
Wow .... she's a beaut!
:applaud:
-
I agree, that's some gorgeous arcade eye-candy right there. The owner of this cab better take good care of it.