Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: ToplessZ on August 15, 2008, 08:26:14 am
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Ive seen some excellent control panels on this site lately. You guys are really pushing the edge on stream line setups. The only question I have is why do most people have bolt heads showing around their joysticks? These can be easily hidden using inserts that you can hide under your artwork or cover over with wood filler? I can understand if you have a metal control panel, but wood gives you the option..
Is it just something overlooked, or do the bolt heads add to the style and look?
Here is a link for an example of the inserts im talking about...(Im not picking on him its just the easiest link I could get.. http://www.alvarezeninternet.com/battlebox/interior.jpg (http://www.alvarezeninternet.com/battlebox/interior.jpg)
There are 6 of them here that he is using to attach the bottom of his box together.
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Ive seen some excellent control panels on this site lately. You guys are really pushing the edge on stream line setups. The only question I have is why do most people have bolt heads showing around their joysticks? These can be easily hidden using inserts that you can hide under your artwork or cover over with wood filler? I can understand if you have a metal control panel, but wood gives you the option..
Is it just something overlooked, or do the bolt heads add to the style and look?
Here is a link for an example of the inserts im talking about...(Im not picking on him its just the easiest link I could get.. http://www.alvarezeninternet.com/battlebox/interior.jpg (http://www.alvarezeninternet.com/battlebox/interior.jpg)
There are 6 of them here that he is using to attach the bottom of his box together.
If you use a metal control panel, you don't have a choice. Can't really hide those. Some people don't mind the look of the carriage bolts and seek out black carriage bolts with no writing on top. Sometimes people do it because they are thinking about maintenance and it's much easier to change out a joystick when you can access the carriage bolts easily.
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Having grown up with classic games and metal panels, I don't mind them showing on my wood panel. They don't get in the way, and to me, they look right. (And mine aren't even carriage bolts. I just have bolts with screw heads.)
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I don't think it's much of an issue as long as any part of the bolt above the panel surface isn't sharp/rusty/ too high. Most aren't, and I always played on machines with longer joysticks so my knuckles never fouled on the surface anyway.
At Turnarcades we counter-sink screw-headed threaded bolts but leave them unfilled on the surface. This so people can easily change or experiment with different joysticks without digging out filler and ruining the surface. Once they're set on keeping a joystick they can easily be filled. A few people requested it this way so we stuck with it as it feels comfortable enough like that.
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I like the carriage bolt look as crazy as that seems. I also like the tactile sense of being able to feel the heads of the bolts whenever I move the joystick.
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I had trouble finding carriage bolts that would work so I ended up using little screw covers. They sell stuff like this at hardware stores but I ended up ordering them over the internet. They had varying styles and colors. Before trying this I was nervous about how good it would look. In the end I'm very satisfied. They look good and they have never once gotten in the way.
If you want, I'll try to look up who I ordered them from. They were very cheap but they had a $10 minimum order so ordered a crap load of them.
actually, if you want to try these, I'd be glad to send you some of my extras, just let me know
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Those are pretty nice, Have you accidently knocked any of them out? Do they hold strong or do you need to glue them?
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Is it just something overlooked, or do the bolt heads add to the style and look?
Here is a link for an example of the inserts im talking about...
I like the bolds on top look as that's what I grew up with, but I don't have any artwork to mess up, either.
Others who don't like the bolt heads have recommended the same type of screw inserts before, as well as counter sinking bolts. So it's not unheard of here.
some of it is personal option, others it's ease or cost, and others didn't know about it when they started so went the standard arcade way.
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Looks like the new u-trak uses "expanding inserts." I assume those are like the screw inserts that Knievel mentioned over on this post: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=66766.0
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Just a personal take from my model building days...
Model builders strive to make the most realistic model possible based from a movie or TV show. My son and I used to love a show on the FX channel that showed how movie FX were done. Most models really look bad, but the way they are filmed makes all the difference. Same with clothing, what looks cool on the screen doesn't mean it looks 'cool' in real life.
I've seen basically three types of cabs... those that strive for the most authentic look and feel... those that look really cool, but nothing like an actual arcade machine, and then those that are a blend of both of the above. Cool and yet authentic 'feeling'.
My point is a lot of real arcades wouldn't pass muster to some people, and a lot have visible bolts and some very rough looks to them- but they are loads of fun to play. People never critiqued the cp when they were dumping quarters, not about a bolt showing at least. If the cp worked and was functional, and the game was fun... I don't recall people complaining about bolts.
As mentioned too, sometimes there is a lot of open real-estate on a cp. The carriage bolt heads sometimes actually are part of the 'look' of the cp.
I guess I'm saying everyone has their own idea of what the 'ultimate' arcade machine looks like. I know when I finish my 'ultimate cp' some may love it, while others will hate it. That's the spice of life, right? ;)
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My machine has only been up and running about a month or 2 so there hasn't been a real "test of time" yet. But during that time it has seen a lot of heavy, aggressive play. There hasn't been an issue yet. When they snap down, they feel pretty secure. But really, even if they eventually did lose their grip, just a dab of regular elmers glue would hold them there.
I got them from www.pro-dec.com but there is probably something similar it a big hardware store like lowes or home depot. Pro-dec has a plethora of styles and colors and they are pretty cheap but they have a $10 minimum order so unless you want 60 70 of these things, you will end up wasting money... shipping is free though.
Here's the exact product I got, it's the "hinge snap-caps"
http://www.pro-dec.com/decorative-screw-caps-screw-covers/snap-caps-hinged-screw-covers;jsessionid=0a010c491f4387e231d4e9734547811ed18b7993dcad.e3eSc3aPaxmLe34Pa38Ta38Mahb0
The attached pic shows how they work.
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I'm making a metal control panel for my cab and i am just going to weld the bolts into the CP and then grind/sand the top flush. Just secure the joystick with a lock nut from underside of CP.
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I don't think it's much of an issue as long as any part of the bolt above the panel surface isn't sharp/rusty/ too high. Most aren't, and I always played on machines with longer joysticks so my knuckles never fouled on the surface anyway.
At Turnarcades we counter-sink screw-headed threaded bolts but leave them unfilled on the surface. This so people can easily change or experiment with different joysticks without digging out filler and ruining the surface. Once they're set on keeping a joystick they can easily be filled. A few people requested it this way so we stuck with it as it feels comfortable enough like that.
I have to say Craig, that I'd be really disappointed in this result. Not only does it look kind of un-finished, but I'd already want the best equipment in my machine if I'd bought it from a builder.
Computer companies don't leave off the side of the case in-case someone wants to upgrade their graphics cards at a later date, so why leave a job kind of half done. I would also not be happy if someone told me to dump some filler in the holes to make it look finished.
Just my two pennies worth ....
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That's fair comment ratzz, I know it isn't for everyone. It's just what we've settled on being a customising outfit and listening to feedback, as many people who come to us are working on a budget and have usually not decided on a control preference. So, should someone order a machine and decide the standard sticks aren't for them over time, swapping them out is easy. Also helps should they ever break anything or just fancy a change.
Like a few have said here, visible bolt heads aren't really a problem for most and the majority of our customers specified they like this. People ask, we respond. If they specify a clean finish, we do it. :)
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You can swap out joysticks perfectly fine without having (the counter sunk) screw heads showing on top. Simply use t-nuts.
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Just got some of these today. Haven't put them in yet, but they look great.
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These are the type of nuts used to mount the U-trak, for anyone who was wondering.
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We have masses of inserts and bolts which we just have not had time yet to package up into kits but as soon as we can we will add these to our store.
Andy(http://www.ultimarc.com/images/DSCN1019.JPG)
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I saw both kinds of these at the hardware store but didn't know the difference between the two. What applications would you use each of these for? Which kind would be best for mounting a u360? It would great if you offered these, because I have to drive 40 minutes to get to a hardware store that sells these! Would be nice if you could just purchase these alone with your u360.
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These are actually the same but one is 5mm and one 6mm diameter. The 5mm is best for U360, J-Stik and the 6mm best for Mag-Stik. We will be supplying them with 17mm bolts and lock and flat washers.
The other expanding type we use for the U-Trak I dont think are resistant enough to continous side loadings of the type you get with a joystick and might work loose. Thats only an assumption though, not tested in long-term test.
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People never critiqued the cp when they were dumping quarters, not about a bolt showing at least. If the cp worked and was functional, and the game was fun... I don't recall people complaining about bolts.
Allow me to be the exception to the rule ;D
I actually recall the first time I played a machine with the carriage bolt heads protruding around the stick. I did find it disturbing and it forced me to modify my hold on the stick to avoid them. Needles to say, when I built my own panel, I didn't use the carriage bolts. The hardware I used on my panel is the same as that which is included in the kits we have been offering at the GGG store (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=317) to avoid having visible hardware on the panel.
I guess I'm saying everyone has their own idea of what the 'ultimate' arcade machine looks like. I know when I finish my 'ultimate cp' some may love it, while others will hate it. That's the spice of life, right? ;)
Absolutely true. It all boils down to what one is used to. Those who played primarily on machines with the carriage bolt heads wouldn't feel right playing without the cold metal bumps on the side of their hand. Different strokes. :)
RandyT
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Hmmm, good question.
Personally when i get to that point Im probably going with stainless countersunk allen head bolts. First thought was to hide them under the decals and such, but my second thought was how i like taking things apart.
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Hmmm, good question.
Personally when i get to that point Im probably going with stainless countersunk allen head bolts. First thought was to hide them under the decals and such, but my second thought was how i like taking things apart.
Again, you can simply use t-nuts and be able to take things apart without showing bolt heads. Put the t-nut in the top of the control panel (fill it up and smoothen it out) and screw the screws in from below. You only need to make sure the screws aren't too long.
Or use one of the kits from the two suppliers who responded above.