Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: stan2323 on August 13, 2008, 08:17:08 pm
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This is the thread where I am going to post progress and snaps of the cabinet.
First some before pictures.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3394.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3395.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3396.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3397.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3393.jpg)
See these threads for history of trouble shooting and why I am Maming it.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=82282.40
http://www.classicarcadegaming.com/forums/index.php/topic,913.0.html
The first thing to do was remove the parts I did not need. It took better part of 2 days to get the monitor. Working for the back was a major pain in the $@@. Then I find out the front bezel lifts out and I could have removed the monitor in 2 hours. With the front bezel out I could have gotten to both sides of the bolts rather than work from the back.
The plywood board that held the monitor in place had to be removed and I had to cut the hole about ¾ inch larger all the way around. I made a tracing of the board before I cut it so if needed I could make another one. If I ever want to use another monitor I would need to make another one to hold the monitor. Or I might mess this one up. LOL
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3479.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3483.jpg)
I decided to put the 21 inch monitor in. It was closer to the original size than the 19 inch I have. First I took the case off. I cut some pieces to bolt the tube to the metal frame since it was not in the plastic case anymore.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3485.jpg)
I knew the monitor was long and it was going to be very tight. I used an exacto knife to cut the angled pieces that went from the bezel to the monitor face. I made them shorter and the curve was different. I basically had to push the monitor right up almost touching the plexie glass.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3482.jpg)
When I got the monitor in place I tried to close the back door and it still would not close. I was not surprised but I was disappointed. LOL. I was hoping not to have to cut the cage around the monitor.
I removed the plug and SVGA cable hook up so they could be moved out of the way. I later made a bracket for the plug and zip tied the circuit board with the SVGA input in place out of the way so I could plug in the monitor.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3487.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3481.jpg)
I had to cut about an inch off the back of the remaining cage. I used an angle grinder and cut along a generally straight line around the back. Then I filed the rough edged to make them smooth and then used some green electrical tape to cover the edged. I had to do this so the door in the back would close. I thought about cutting a hole in the door and letting the back of the monitor stick out. But I decided not too. Too ugly and would not look original. I had to remove the fan from the back door. I will get a couple of small ones and put them on the bottom of the cabinet. This will reveres the air flow but I think it will be OK.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3480.jpg)
Once I had the monitor in and knew it was going to fit and I would be able to close the door I made some custom brackets to hold the monitor in place. I put one on each corner. The last thing was some 6 inch angled brackets to hold up the back of the monitor. I am not sure if they were needed or not. The monitor was solid with just the 4 brackets in front. They were easy to put in and gave me a little more piece of mind so I put them in.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3485.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3486.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3490.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3489.jpg)
Thanks for reading. I will not be able to work on it for a couple of days but this is a good start.
Stan
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I used to love that game... guess I still do - just tested it on my PC and I was able to play it just fine.
"Entering Sector 12..." - love how they got Nimoy to do the voice for it.
Jim
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Good work Stan. I'm glad you managed to trim the monitor cage down to fit it in without butchering the cab. :applaud:
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Didn't the original monitors catch on fire?
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umm am I not correct in that they actually synthesized all the voices and no actual speaker was used (due to ram constraints)????
I love that game and plan on building a bridge type set with arcade machines for the other consoles and a video projector for the screen.(video projector will be built into the seat so no front hanging on to it) I also want to build an actual cockpit with canopy and have a screen in front of it projecting the Starwars vector on it so you have to move around to see around the struts the canopy is made from. complete that with a door encloser and sound proofing so it feels more like you are in the vacuum of space and it will be complete (oh and some small actual renderings of those green screens that are painted on the read cab bezel run over some sort of very small LCD screens like the photo frames or something too:D
sorry I love and grew up on SciFi primarily and bing the USS captain or what ever was a dream of mine. NOW the REAL questions is has anyone ever made a decent Red Dwarf video game :D ;D :p
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I have worked for an hour or so on the game today. I got the I-pac and Opti-pac today. I am going wire them up in the next couple of days. And test run it on my laptop before I set up the computer I will use.
I decided I am going to remove the entire wiring harness, monitor, PCB boards, power supply, control interface, and transformer and keep them. When I get time I am going to set it up on a bench and go through it with an o-scope and determine what is wrong. Once I get it fixed I will put it all in an upright cabinet. I have a Star Trek control panel from a stand up that I will use. I have 2 cabinets that I could use to make. One is an old Super Pac-Man that was converted and the other is an old Stargate that was converted. I am thinking the Stargate will be best because it has nice large side for the artwork. It may take me a year or 2 to find the space and time to do this but I will someday. LOL
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I am soooo jealous! I've always wanted a Star Trek Cabinet!
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Outstanding idea on the cab, cant wait to see it in all its glory
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Hardware is about done. I need to get the software working. I am running Windows 2000, 20 gig hd, 512 meg RAM, VIA EPIA Nehemiah M10000G 1GHz All In One Motherboard, the monitor, I-Pac, and Opti-Pac.
I added 2 receptacles for 4 outlets under the monitor. I wired them to the original switch so that turn them on and off. I have the computer to boot when power is turned on. I am not sure if I will need more than 2 but I put them in case I need them. Right now just the computer and monitor is all that are plugged in. I may have to plug in speakers but I have not done anything with the sound yet. My plan on that is to splice in from the PC sound output to the speakers directly then use windows to control the volume. I am not sure if it will be loud enough. If not I will add in a small amp to boost the signal to the needed level and the need for additional outlets. I had to cut the insulation off the VGA cable so it would bend nice
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3587.jpg)
I bolted the computer mother board, hard drive, power supply, and CD drive on a pieces of plywood that I screwed on to the plywood insert that the original power supply PCB boards, and transformer were attached to. I can pull it out carefully to work on it. When it is in place it is pretty solid.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3588.jpg)
I attached the I-Pac inside the chair on the side where the buttons are. The I-Pac is working perfectly right out of the box. I loaded the Win I-Pac and looked at it but I do not think I will need that. I have the 4 buttons on the arm rest, the coin switches, the player 1 button and the 2 added buttons hooked to it. They are all working good.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3589.jpg)
The Opti-Pac attached inside to the left side where the spinner is. For some reason the computer will not load the Opti-Pac. I get that the drive will not work because the device did not tell windows what kind of device it is. I have not done anything but hook up the spinner and plug it in. I need to check the jumpers and make sure the driver is working correct. I hooked the coin door light to the +5 V and ground on the Opti-Pac and they are on so I know it is getting power. I also need to make sure the wires are hooked up to the right connectors.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3590.jpg)
This is the monitor controls. I have to pull the front glass back and I can make adjustments on it. You can also see the top of the 2 buttons I added. I added them on the bottom near the back where the coin door pieces meet the shelf that the monitor sits on. You can not see them unless you bend down to look.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3592.jpg)
The 2 buttons I added. I still need to brush off the saw dust. LOL
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3593.jpg)
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:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
As you can tell by my name I am Star Trek all the way... I am watching this with great envy!!!
Live Long and Prosper
Spock
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:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
As you can tell by my name I am Star Trek all the way... I am watching this with great envy!!!
Live Long and Prosper
Spock
I like the name. How much do you look like Spock? ;)
Anyway update.
I set the jumper on the Opti-Pac to USB and it worked perfectly.
I modified a button to activate two micro switches. That way I can use it for the X axis and then I push the button and it moves the Y axes. This way I can use the spinner as a mouse and get to the whole screen. I made the 2 buttons under the cabinet as the mouse 1 and mouse 2 buttons. See the pictures from a couple of posts ago.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3740.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3733.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3725.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3728.jpg)
It boots, into the front end and you can choose what games you want to play and play.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3732.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3734.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3738.jpg)
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Great job! I somehow missed this first time around.
I like your wiring skills..
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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so I have a question. was it my imagination or did some one say that there are modified sound bytes for the mame startrek? I noticed that a number of the samples are just too loud while others (sulu's voice when being welcomed on the bridge) are just to quite. If some one knows where they are now would be a good time to speak up else I will break out soundforge and fix the situation and post a link to the fixed samples here (unless you already have the sample problem worked out stan:D if so you should post links and how to on that as well :D:D:D) by the way I am still following this with more than just a little enthusiasm. I really wish I had the equipment you have now. when I get space I will definetly begin looking around for an actual startrek sit down cab as well as a starwars one.
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so I have a question. was it my imagination or did some one say that there are modified sound bytes for the mame startrek? I noticed that a number of the samples are just too loud while others (sulu's voice when being welcomed on the bridge) are just to quite. If some one knows where they are now would be a good time to speak up else I will break out soundforge and fix the situation and post a link to the fixed samples here (unless you already have the sample problem worked out.
No I have not worked this out. I just hooked up the sound and got the computer running good to where I can play it and the monitor went out. The sound I have is running straight from the sound of the computer to the speakers. I control the volume in windows. I currently have it turned up as high as it will go in windows and it is just about right for the most part.
I hooked up another monitor to make sure it was the monitor and it is. The power light is on like the monitor is getting signals but I am getting no picture at all. I am looking into getting another monitor for it.
Stan
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Latest update. I got another monitor from Craigslist for $30. This one was shorter and fit without being decased. It is a tight fit. I need to cut the bolts that hold the fan cover off they stick out about 1/2 inch. That will give a bit more clearance. Also I need to make a permanent holder to hold up the back end. The 2 by 4's are ok for now but not for the long run. You can not see them in the picture but I put 2, 12 volt computer case fans on the bottom to get some air flow through the monitor area.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3742.jpg)
As you can see I need to fix the bezel to match the monitor. I can do that later. I got MAME and Windows 2000 running good.
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u293/stan2323/DCP_3741.jpg)
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Nice! Someday I need to find a Captain's Chair Star Trek. Love the game, and TOS!
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How did you work out the sound up by the speakers?