Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: javeryh on July 24, 2008, 05:33:51 pm
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I don't have a drill press but I have a router with a plunge base. It will take 1/2" or 1/4" bits. I'd like to drill some perfectly straight holes - is there such a thing that I can use that will enable me to use drill bits?
Thanks! :cheers:
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Thankfully, no. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=5466.msg36550#msg36550)
A router will spin around 30,000 RPM while an electric drill will (MAX) around 2,200.
Putting a drill bit in your router may = death. It may spin you around ;) - or worse - may spin the router out of control and into your torso since the cutting surface of the bit is MUCH greater and has far greater "bite" than a router bit. Keep in mind that larger "router" bits such as those used for moulding and the like, are used in a shaper - which is widely regarded as the most dangerous shop tool made. 30,000 RPM + lack of solid control = flying body parts.
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IMO the drill press is pretty dang dangerous also. It's the only tool Ive ever really injured myself with. I was building a desk lamp with acrylic plastic in high school shop class. I was drilling a center hole in a 3" triangular shaped piece of acrylic on the drill press. Went down drilled the hole and I think on the up stroke it got stuck on the bit and started spinning with the bit and my immediate reaction was to grab it...with both hands!! Sliced a gash in each of my hands about 2 inches in length. Blood went everywhere! Fortunately the cuts weren't really that deep, but it really freaked me and the rest of the class out including the teacher. Drill presses, be careful.
Never had an accident with a table saw, (knock on wood) but my shop teachers always used to say that was one of the most dangerous tools in the shop. I have a friend that just recently lost a couple fingers to his table saw. I believe the router could do some damage also if it got loose. Had a close call with my chop saw trying to cut in-line with the grain (big no-no). The wife had a close call today with her rotary tool on a wood carving, lost some skin on her carving fingers.
Sorry about the off topic rambling, but maybe it could prevent someone from making the same mistakes and thus avoiding unnecessary injuries. Power tools, them's is dangerous! :-\
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Thanks guys. The link to the hand held guide isn't active anymore - can someone provide another link? I assume it was a drill attachment or something? I'd like to pick one up but I don't even know what they are called. Thanks!! :cheers:
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What diameter hole are you trying to bore?
If it isn't some oddball size you could use a 2 flute, straight, carbide-tipped router bit with a plunge tip of the same diameter to bore your hole.
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The thing you want is called a drill guide (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2405). You can find them as most woodworking stores. Not nearly as accurate as a good drill press, but much better than a hand-held drill.
As Chadwick mentioned, buying router bits is also an option, albeit an expensive one. Stores like Enco (http://www.use-enco.com/), MSC (http://www.mscdirect.com/), or McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com) may have a larger selection of bits than a typical woodworking shop. The important thing is to buy a cutter designed to spin at the 10,000-15,000 rpm that's the minimum speed of your router. Most drill bits, end mills, etc. are designed to operate at 2000-3000rpm max. The larger the bit, the slower it needs to turn.
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I have a nice router (DeWalt) - I suppose I'll make due with my 1/4" plunge bit.
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IMO the drill press is pretty dang dangerous also. It's the only tool Ive ever really injured myself with. I was building a desk lamp with acrylic plastic in high school shop class. I was drilling a center hole in a 3" triangular shaped piece of acrylic on the drill press. Went down drilled the hole and I think on the up stroke it got stuck on the bit and started spinning with the bit and my immediate reaction was to grab it...with both hands!! Sliced a gash in each of my hands about 2 inches in length. Blood went everywhere! Fortunately the cuts weren't really that deep, but it really freaked me and the rest of the class out including the teacher. Drill presses, be careful.
Never had an accident with a table saw, (knock on wood) but my shop teachers always used to say that was one of the most dangerous tools in the shop. I have a friend that just recently lost a couple fingers to his table saw. I believe the router could do some damage also if it got loose. Had a close call with my chop saw trying to cut in-line with the grain (big no-no). The wife had a close call today with her rotary tool on a wood carving, lost some skin on her carving fingers.
Sorry about the off topic rambling, but maybe it could prevent someone from making the same mistakes and thus avoiding unnecessary injuries. Power tools, them's is dangerous! :-\
I'm in the process of building poker table and a buddy of mine let me borrow his Bosch Table Saw. Thus far, the only issue I've had with it is the insane amount of sawdust it makes. I was happy as all hell I did this outside! Ripped through the planks like butter, however, so I can see how it can be dangerous.
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The thing you want is called a drill guide (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2405).
I have one of those drill guides and, IMO, they are not worth the trouble. It takes forever to get set up, especially with the drill attached cos the thing is so top-heavy and wobbly. It's really really easy to make a mistake with it compared to a drill press. In fact, I think it's easier to just use a drill free-hand, and you're less likely to make a mistake than with one of those drill guides. I dunno. Maybe I'm just not using it right, or haven't used it enough to get a quick system down. But since the thing just sits in the bottom of a toolbox unused these days, I probably never will.
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Yeah that does look like it would be top heavy if you're using a cordless. Probably not nearly as bad with a corded drill so long as you made sure to keep slack in the cord. I've been looking for something like this myself. Not for angle accuracy but as a way to keep fixed control of cut depth.
EDIT: for angle control maybe this one (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=2408&TabSelect=Reviews) is a viable alternative.
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Well, my only drills are a cordless and a wired hammer drill. The hammer drill is way heavier than the cordless (just a 9.6v Black and Decker). I don't think I've ever even tried to use the drill guide with the cordless because it's really too weak to handle serious work, and for work that isn't serious I don't need the kind of precision that would call for a drill guide.
The thing is really something to set up, though. It has a couple of set screws with points on them that you screw down and they press into the wood, giving the thing some traction. Obviously this isn't an option on a piece that can't be marred. But you have to be careful, because it's very likely that the last time you used it you just picked it up, unhooked the drill and put it away, so the set screws are still protruding down past the base. Set it down on something without thinking and you just marred your surface.
Then just getting the thing all lined up is very difficult. Once you have it, because it's so top-heavy and unwieldy, it's easy for it to move out of place (which defeats the whole purpose of the thing). Controlling depth is nice, but just get those little drill stops you screw onto the bit for that. They work well enough and are 1000x easier to use.
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The drill guide is handy for large pieces that won't fit on the drill press. I suggest getting a set of "brad point" drill bits to use with it. Makes hitting your mark a lot easier.
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Just an FYI - I've owned and used a drill guide with my electric drill (never my cordless) and never had any problem with it. I used it just yesterday to drill the holes for my CP (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=67651.0). You just have to make certain the drill bit is centered properly (no wobble) and I always use the extra handle (wearing gloves) for stability. My only complaint is no depth meter - you have to either eyeball it and tighten down the screw that limits the depth cut or use a t-square to get more accurate.
Jim
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you might consider using a hand drill that has the bullseye level on the back of the handle. I have one and it has always given me great results. and trust me I am pretty picky about such things considering I try to use my mill to do everything.
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Ive also had no problems using a Drill Guide. They work great Imop.
Either you were not using it correctly, or you have a faulty model... ?
However, I prefer my the $180 floor standing Radial Drill press that I bought from Harbor Freight years later. :)
The crappy 9" drill press I had before that wasnt worth it. Couldnt
do very much due to limited throat depth. Theres almost nothing
that the Radial cant handle with ease... as the throat depth is incredible.
(as well as vertical depth as well)
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Couldnt do very much due to limited throat depth. Theres almost nothing
that the Radial cant handle with ease... as the throat depth is incredible.
(as well as vertical depth as well)
I dated a girl like that in high school.
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I just thought I would reiterate how retarded those drill guides are. I had to drill six button holes tonight, so I decided to give it another shot. I drilled the first three with the guide and the second three without. The three without were far easier and produced MUCH nicer, cleaner holes. The drill guide just adds a bunch of length between the surface and your drill, as well as adding a second collet into the mix which generates slop. The spade had a tendency to dance around once it got near 50% through the wood. It also had a tendency to bind in the wood, forcing me to stop and retighten both collets.
I hadn't planned to do a comparison, actually. I just got fed up with how ---smurfy--- everything was going and took the guide off. After that everything was as smooth as butter. The thing is garbage. I'll keep it around because the base can pivot, which might make drilling angles easier, but frankly I don't even know if it will help there. It's seriously wonky.
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I bought a drill guide and I'm about to test it out. Just from the looks of it, anything other than a drill bit probably isn't going to work... we shall see.
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This looks like the one I have. Damn! It looks like I may have spent nearly $50 on that thing. What a waste. ::)
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That looks exactly like the one i bought but mine was only $30 - it is the only one they carry at Home Depot.
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I also have that one.. .which was $30.
Spade bits are pretty darn good at going in straight on their own.
Once both sides make contact, it leaves almost no ability for the spade to
lean into a different direction. Also, As it first starts to go in, both sides of the
blade meet the material squarely at the same time.. which prevents changes in entry angles that usually occur with normal drill bits.
However, when it comes to accuracy with drilling straight holes with a
regular drill bit... its much better to use a guide. Now, this really
does depend on the accuracy you need... as well as the depth of material.
For the cleanest 'smooth' holes.. you would want to use a Fostner bit.
Spade bits are the fastest however.
Hole saw is average in speed and edge roughness/damage.
Edge damage is rarely a concern with arcade buttons however,
because the buttons lip overhangs the hole, covering up any slop
or damages.
The biggest problem is getting the holes lined up perfectly so that
a group of 6 buttons holes is perfectly spaced equally in all directions.
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The biggest problem is getting the holes lined up perfectly so that a group of 6 buttons holes is perfectly spaced equally in all directions.
I lay out all of the center points and then use an awl and a hammer to mark them. This gives the foerstner bit something to sink into before spinning so it won't go off center at all. It works perfectly every time!
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I have seen drill press stands that allow you to attach your hand drill to it and use it like a drill press.
I cant find a picture, but I will post one if I can. (It would help if I could remember what it is called.)
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Here is one I found:
Click (http://brantford.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-tools-equipment-Drill-Press-holder-for-hand-drill-W0QQAdIdZ55648596)
For 12 Shucks, it aint bad..
Heres another on Craigslist for 15 shucks.. (No picture tho)
http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/tls/791234694.html
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I have one of those "drill press type guides". I'd say it does work rather well. Not as perfect as a real drill press, but it comes close.
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That does look nice. I probably paid only $30 for mine too. I probably got it at Home Depot. But I can't remember and the site where I found that pic sells it for $50.