Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: ncflagg on July 11, 2008, 11:51:08 pm
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The part pointed at in the picture is visibly broken. From the powder it looks ceramic? I think is says Ryek on it. What is it and where can I find a replacement?
Edit: This isn't a pic of my actual monitor pcb. Wife has the cam.
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That is a white ceramic power resistor.
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Thanks, Ken.
What do I need to know about it to find a proper replacement part?
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resistance/wattage value for a generic , or
the equipment mfg part # for exact replacement ;D
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resistance/wattage value
Usually can be found directly on that type of resistor.
Should be R609 - 180 Ohm 20 Watt
If it burnt in two, then you may have problems elsewhere.
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I don't see any burns on the part. The pcb itself looks kind of dark. What might cause the resistor to go? (Anyone have a flow chart?)
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Dark areas on the board around resistors of that size is fairly common. (they get damn hot)
As for failure..... that could be a number of things.
Could be anything from being old and fragile to bad caps to a bad voltage regulator to a bad flyback.
Generally a dead short of sorts to take that one out.
One end of that resistor should be Test Point 91 or something like that.
This is the B+ test point and should be around 108v DC.
Did it blow any fuses?
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The .300 fuse was missing when it came into my possession. When I plugged it no fuse blew. I looked at a resistor in another of my Sanyo's and it does appear to be a 180 ohm 20watt.
Is this a part #?
JRM 3 L02 or
JRM 3 LE3
Any ideas on where to order a replacement?
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I would assume that since the fuse was missing that it had blown.
It probably didn't blow when you replaced it due to the resistor failing. (no more short)
I believe the last resistor like that I bought.... years ago mind ya.... I got from Bob Roberts.
I didn't see it listed on his site, but a quick e-mail to him to ask if he had one wouldn't hurt.
You can also order a cap kit from him as well. (recommended)
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/ (http://www.therealbobroberts.net/)
But if it turns out to be the flyback then it starts to get spendy.
NOS ones found run around $100.
Reproduction ones (if still available) run around $45
http://arcadeshop.com/parts.htm#Monitors (http://arcadeshop.com/parts.htm#Monitors)
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I asked Bob. He didn't know either. He said he'd carry it if he was given a supplier.
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I'm still having terrible luck finding this part. Will a ceramic resistor close in value work as a substitute? Like a 20w 150ohm?
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Ohm needs to be the same ..... wattage can be higher but not lower.