Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: jhartley111 on June 08, 2008, 11:39:14 am
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I'm to the point of needing to paint a metal atari control panel. The only thing I'm worried about is the 23-24 inch long hinge that runs the length of the control panel on the bottom. It bolts to the cabinet at the bottom of the panel and allows the panel to swing down.
Common sense and google searches tell me that I shouldn't expect painting that hinge to go very well (once the paint dries it will split and crack if I swing the hinge.
I'm wondering if there are any good alternatives to this. Rust is what I'm worried about. Right now the plan is to paint it and give it a good wd-40 lubing. I have no idea if that will work but it's the best thing I can think of. I'll be painting with Rustoleum flat black enamel
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated
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Don't use WD-40, that tends to attract dirt. It's also not very friendly to some types of paint it seems. Never tried mixing it with Rustoleum though.
In any case, why bother painting it? If you use any sort of oil (including WD-40) it is usually sufficient to prevent general corrosion.
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I intended to paint it because I stripped all the paint off of the hinge when I stripped it off of the rest of the panel. Now it's exposed and vulnerable to rust.
So you're saying I should leave the actual hinge unpainted and just use oil? if so, what to use besides WD 40 since it attracts dirt?
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Use several layers of plasti-kote and seal it with lacquer. Shouldn't worry about rusting on exposed parts - you're not going to be getting it wet are you? :D
Failing that, swap it for a brass or galvanised hinge.
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I would suggest replacing it. If not then at least remove it, paint the cab then put it back on. I know it's a lot easier to paint over it but it looks like ass when someone paints over a hinge. Sloppy work. I hate seeing that.
Once you remove it perhaps you can re-paint while its bent back so the whole area is covered in one coat.
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I would suggest replacing it. If not then at least remove it, paint the cab then put it back on. I know it's a lot easier to paint over it but it looks like ass when someone paints over a hinge. Sloppy work. I hate seeing that.
(http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/6651/61360047ue5.png)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=74322.0
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Eugh!
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So you're saying I should leave the actual hinge unpainted and just use oil? if so, what to use besides WD 40 since it attracts dirt?
Just about anything actually. WD-40 is an awesome oil. Removes rusts, loosens bolts, lubricates in a pinch. But when dirt is a concern, I tend to avoid it.
Try using an oil specifically designed for bicycle chains. It's non-dripping so that will minimize stains on your cabinet. Penetrates through the close tolerances of the metal. Does a pretty darn good job of resisting moisture and dirt. I don't have a brand name for you though, but any well equipped bicycle shop will carry it. If they're nice they might even fill up a small applicator bottle with their repair shop supply for a dollar or two.
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I built a metal panel for my centipede, and I just bought a new piano hinge and primered and painted it and it looks perfectly fine to me. I painted it black though, not pink. :P
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You could use gun bluing, or you could buy a brass piano hinge (probably big bucks though...)
Personally, I wouldn't be worried about the paint looking bad unless its out in the open. Do you have any pics?
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Thanks for all the input
Here's a pic of the hinge. It's very long (23 or 24 inches) and welded onto the CP so I am very reluctant to even think about replacing it. Knowing what I know now, I wish I had left the hinge when I initially stripped the CP of all but metal.
Boogieman:
What is involved with "gun bluing"? Is it just a chemical that is applied or is there special equipment involved.?
Turnarcades:
Why do you suggest "plasti-kote"? looks like a spray paint manufacturer to me
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Gun bluing is something that is done to guns to keep them looking black. You can get it at any sporting goods store in the hunting department. You can even find a thread about it somewhere here on BYOAC (that's how I learned about it).
Why not at least try spraying primer then paint? It turned out just fine on mine. Worst case scenario - you have to re-strip.
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Looking at it now plasti-kote wouldn't be great as the hinge is part of the actual panel and you would have to blend it in to the rest o your panel which probably wouldn't work.
Plasti-kote (as it's known here in the UK anyway) is a specific spray-paint with polymers, creating a paint-thin, flexible paint layer that is resistant to scratches and cracking like regular sprays. I use it for loads of diferent tasks, from bezel-spraying on perspex to painting heat-prone surfaces.
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He could just mask off the main part of the panel.
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I would suggest replacing it. If not then at least remove it, paint the cab then put it back on. I know it's a lot easier to paint over it but it looks like ass when someone paints over a hinge. Sloppy work. I hate seeing that.
(http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/6651/61360047ue5.png)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=74322.0
Exactly, that looks horrible. Whoever did that ought to be shot.
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That person did a bad job but it's not that hard to do a good job of painting a hinge.
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why not go the easy route here and drive the pin out fo the spine on the hinge? I have done it several times including on a coindoor raised from the dead and it looks fantastic. Once the pin is removed youll have the 2 spearate pieces. Spray them individually and allow extra time to dry. Got an old oven laying around? Baking the finish or powder coating are other viable options as well. If you do pull it apart make sure to apply about 3 layers of paint. And make it as thin a layer as possible, youll notice the hinge is not completely covered with paint after the first application and this is correct as your slowly building layers and allowing it to bond and cure properly. You may go as far as using #000 steel wool to gently scuff the areas. Be sure to go in a singular motion when doing so. Applying your paint aftwerwards once cleaned may be even better as the abrasions can make the paint adhere much better.
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Great idea, NIVO. When I get home I'll see if I can take the hinge apart.
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Problem with painting a hinge is that the paint can easily chip or scratch off on the exposed parts.
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That's the problem with painting ANYTHING. The hinge, relatively speaking, is not likely to get banged into by objects that might chip or scratch it by nature of where it is (since I have the same setup, and mine isn't chipped or scratched), or worst case scenario it's probably not going to be noticeable anyway.
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25 year old, 23 inch long hinges don't disassemble very easily. I couldn't even budge it. Judging from what you guys have said, I'm probably over reacting to this situation. My primary concern was rust, since the hinge is hidden from view when installed. I'm just gonna paint it along with the rest of the CP and not worry about it.
Thanks for all the help
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I think I tried to separate mine too without luck. When you paint it, just make sure that each coat has the hinge in a different position so that you get the hinge from all angles. I think you'll be satisfied with the results.
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What about something like this: one piece on each surface of the inside, and they're both a quarter arc in shape and the top part has an end with a knob that fits inside the lower part (which has a slot) and slides in it. I can't think of what that might be called, but I know I've seen it. Would solve lots of issues, including being nice an tidy.......na, wouldn't be stable, though. That's only a sort of guide to support a hinge. Hmm.