Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: Level42 on May 29, 2008, 01:35:36 am
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Trying to identify the monitor on my Mario Bros. (originally Radar Scope) cab. It is NOT the 20EZ. This one is boxed in a wooden cage. The CRT does have a Sanyo label.
I will upload some pics a bit later.
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Pics:
Light Radar Scope burn-in:
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF0848/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF0855/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF0859/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF0856/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF0854/web.jpg)
Fake controls ?:
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF0853/web.jpg)
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Ken ?
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Well, I think I might have answered my own question....
I downloaded the Radar Scope manual from the Arcade Archive and it has schematics of several monitors:
14-AZL (which I assume was a 14" for the cocktail)
20-DZC - I think this is the one I'm looking for. The schematic looks different from the EZ at least. It also makes sense as D precedes E....... :D
20-EZV(R-B)
20-EZV
20-EZR
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I've never seen this monitor before.
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I'm baffled !
Somehow, I always seem to end up with weird uncommon monitors. Started with the 4500 in my Galaxian (but that's still well-known compared to the others). Next was the Hantarex MC90 in my Puckman, then the LAI B/W vector monitor and now this..... ::)
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OK, in preparation of getting it ready for "semi-permanent" vertical mounting, I opened the wooden cage of my Sanyo monitor to check what's in there....
Here are all the pics, maybe some of you find the interesting...
The only reference to a model number is a little sticker on the bottom of the cage, saying TRS (which stands for Radar Scope) and 20C. I can't imagine it being anything other than 20" color. Will have to compare it to the (crappy) scan in the Radar Scope manual....
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF1168/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF1153/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF1156/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF1160/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF1162/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF1163/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF1163/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF1165/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF1167/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.mac.com/andre.huijts/100139/DSCF1169/web.jpg)
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Some friendly guys on the KLOV forum solved this: It's (the boardset of) the Sanyo 14".
Atari made a very nice manual for it:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Atari%20Monitor%20TM-151%20Sanyo%2014in%20Color%20Monitor.pdf
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OK, I tried to fully adjust the monitor and everything works fine, except for one thing:
The width-coil doesn't have enough range to get a fully width on the Mario game. It's not covering about 2 inches on each side of the CRT, so that's a waste. The coil does work, because when I turn it the other way around the picture gets narrower.
Could the coil be defective or could anything else cause this ?
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lots of far east chassis have width jumpers,worth a looky
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Grantspain,
There's a jumper near the widthcoil in the schematic, but I think it's just there for bridging some PCB tracks, not to select anything. Also there' s a "down" and "up" selecting jumper near R418 but I'm not sure if that will do anything to the width (more position probably).
Could you have a look at page 15 and 16 of that schematic I linked to 3 posts ago ? Thanks !
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Damn. I just blew something up I guess.....
I removed the sound/adjustment board from it's stands so I could see what cap values I would need to re-cap it. I put it back after writing all values down (only 4) and fired up the machine. But I forgot that I had removed the neck-board to make the soundboard easier to reach.....
After turning power off and remounting the neckboard the monitor lost vertical deflection (horizontal line) and no sound at all................pots have some effect still (except sound)....
Damn I can't believe how stupid I was ! :banghead: :banghead:
Any help welcome !
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OK, got picture again ! Phew..... one of the wires that runs to the main board got loose on the soldering (in fact the soldering plus track came loose a bit. It's a shame Sanyo didn't use proper connectors for the inter-board connects....
Resoldered it and picture's fine again. But still no sound. Well, will be rebuilding it anyway so I'm sure I will fix that too.
Glad I didn't blow up anything on the main board....
O and that hum REALLY hurts the sounds (especially the music). It's clearly a 50 Hz (mains) ripple over those sounds. It sounds like ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- and I want it fixed
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Could the coil be defective or could anything else cause this ?
Asking the obvious here since you didn't mention it...have you capped it yet?
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Hah, yeah.....well, since the picture is absolutely perfect I first had decided not to cap-kit it. I've had a pretty bad experience with cap-kitting the WG4500 that was in my Galaxian, so I thought that it would be fine without a cap-kit.
So, could a cap-kit increase the range of the width yoke ?
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Hah, yeah.....well, since the picture is absolutely perfect I first had decided not to cap-kit it. I've had a pretty bad experience with cap-kitting the WG4500 that was in my Galaxian, so I thought that it would be fine without a cap-kit.
So, could a cap-kit increase the range of the width yoke ?
Who can say? I can say that those look like original caps, and since their values diminish with time, it's a possibility. A good one.
What happened with the K4500?
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The 4500 was the first monitor I cap-kitted. The picture of the 4500 was already very poorly converged. I didn't really know what to expect so I tried the cap-kit. The picture was worse after it.
The whole cap-kit took me a lot of work and the money for the kit (and shipping) and so I decided to replace it with a TV using SCART. I can get a TV here for about the price of 2 cap-kits....
Check out the Galaxian thread for pictures and more info....
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Convergence is never helped by caps. That's a whole new ball of wax.
Size, OTOH, is.
Where did you get the kit from that you're complaining about the overall cost? They're not terribly expensive. But then you're over the pond. You didn't get it from over here, did you?
Maplin is in your locale, right? Do your own "kit" and order the caps from them.
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I had a horizontal width problem on my Sanyo 20EZ.
Turned out my B+, which should have been 108V was actually.................. 88V. OH NOES!
Once I adjusted that to the correct voltage, easy as pie!
Also fixed some color dimness.
Check your manual for B+ value you need, and for the B+ test point. Worth a shot.
don't know if you have adjusted these before but I posted a video of how I adjusted mine in The Monitor FAQ (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=45137.40)
A video which Level42 has seen because he made fun of my low light situation! HAHA
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Lutus....not a laugh, just a tip. Man I've been "working" like that for a long time before I bought that walking TL light....
As a fact, because of your thread I already had checked the B+ and it's fine (106,8 V). So that's not the problem. I guess I'll just do the cap-kit.
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Yep, definently cap kit it.
And, I did buy a light. ;)