Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Ninja-chicken on May 28, 2008, 06:27:43 am
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Hi everyone!
This forum is really great. I've posted a question or two before and been very very pleased with the answers. Hopefully you guys could help out with the latest issue with my cab :)
So I bought a KI machine which came with a coin mech. The guy who sold it said just before he shipped it he was playing street fighter on it perfectly and the coin mech was working 100%.
I plugged in the JAMMA harness to my J-PAC and opened a text editor. I constantly got "5". The coin mech wires are attached to the JAMMA harness via a easy release plug thing so I simply unplugged that and the constant "5" stopped.
I assume this means there is something screwing up with the wiring. Could there be anything you know of causing this? Could it just be broken?
It's also worth noting I replaced the bulb, but that doesnt come on when it's plugged in and when I put a coin in it just gets rejected.
FYI the coin mech is attached to a board called "Klingon v1.1". Other then that I don't know what make it is.
Thankyou for any help you could give me :)
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Does the coin mech have microswitches?
Maybe the wire is connected to Normally Closed (NC) instead of Normally Open (NO), I think if you have it connected to NC it will give you the constant '5' you are getting.
If you do have microswitches try swapping the wire to the other terminal (NO)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/microswitch.gif)
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Does the coin mech have microswitches?
Maybe the wire is connected to Normally Closed (NC) instead of Normally Open (NO), I think if you have it connected to NC it will give you the constant '5' you are getting.
If you do have microswitches try swapping the wire to the other terminal (NO)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/microswitch.gif)
It doesn't have a microswitch no :(
I'll have a look at it at lunch to see if there is anything similar, and I'll take photos of all the wiring etc. I think that should help :)
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Definitely take a picture. Unless it has some weird kind of coin comparator it should have switches. They likely have a wire arm that moves when a coin drops thru.
FYI the coin mech is attached to a board called "Klingon v1.1". Other then that I don't know what make it is.
Yes, take a picture of that whole works.
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I've done the best I can. Any questions please ask
(http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/5461/dscf0563ca1.jpg)
(http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/6611/dscf0564ng4.jpg)
(http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/9849/dscf0565gt7.jpg)
(http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/6253/dscf0567yr7.jpg)
(http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/3421/dscf0568qe6.jpg)
(http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/3895/dscf0569me0.jpg)
(http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/3943/dscf0570tx7.jpg)
(http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/5647/dscf0571ds8.jpg)
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Okay...you have some kind of coin comparator.
The JAMMA spec, IIRC, says that coin switches are normally closed. So that's what this device is doing.
Mame, OTOH, has coin switches as normally open.
How you could correct that with this device, I don't know. but I do believe it to be working properly within the JAMMA spec.
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Okay...you have some kind of coin comparator.
The JAMMA spec, IIRC, says that coin switches are normally closed. So that's what this device is doing.
Mame, OTOH, has coin switches as normally open.
How you could correct that with this device, I don't know. but I do believe it to be working properly within the JAMMA spec.
Ah ok so I could configure mame to expect it as always closed?
Also, the coin just drops straight through to the reject when I put one in, and the bulb (which I bought brand new so it isn't broken) doesn't come on. This leads me to believe it's broken, but could there be another reason?
Thankyou
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Ah ok so I could configure mame to expect it as always closed?
I don't *think* so, though I've been wrong before.
Also, the coin just drops straight through to the reject when I put one in, and the bulb (which I bought brand new so it isn't broken) doesn't come on. This leads me to believe it's broken, but could there be another reason?
Removing it from an actual JAMMA board may have interfered with the way it operates. Sounds to me like it's not being powered, so it's rejecting all coins (since who wants to pay to play a machine that's not plugged in?) and that also affects the light.
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Do u have the manual for the credit board?? If so it will say what the jumper settings on the board are for, and you may have to change one of the jumpers??
(http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/9783/dscf0567yr7va6.jpg)
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Ah ok so I could configure mame to expect it as always closed?
I don't *think* so, though I've been wrong before.
Also, the coin just drops straight through to the reject when I put one in, and the bulb (which I bought brand new so it isn't broken) doesn't come on. This leads me to believe it's broken, but could there be another reason?
Removing it from an actual JAMMA board may have interfered with the way it operates. Sounds to me like it's not being powered, so it's rejecting all coins (since who wants to pay to play a machine that's not plugged in?) and that also affects the light.
I'll have a look tonight what wires are going into what pin on the jamma harness. I am using J-PAC which I assume emulates a PCB's pretty well so surely that can't be the problem? Or can it...
Do u have the manual for the credit board?? If so it will say what the jumper settings on the board are for, and you may have to change one of the jumpers??
I managed to find info on the jumpers online and they are set to take 10p as a credit
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I'll have a look tonight what wires are going into what pin on the jamma harness. I am using J-PAC which I assume emulates a PCB's pretty well so surely that can't be the problem? Or can it...
All a J-PAC does is route keyboard connections (and video) thru a JAMMA harness. It doesn't emulate anything.
When you remove the power supply from the unit (which is what's happened here essentially) your comparator is no longer getting power. Therefore, it's not working.
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Standard coin mechs are cheap. Just order some and be done with it. Much easier than this...
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Standard coin mechs are cheap. Just order some and be done with it. Much easier than this...
If it were just the mech it would be one thing. Check out that setup - basically the cheapest thing would be to get a whole different door.
Besides, what's the fun in that? Maybe he can get this solution working.
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The way it looked to me was as if it attached to a standard door, just without the parts that hold mechs in place.
Guess I was wrong.
And, yeah, of course it's more fun to get it working if possible.
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sounds like the 50p line is short,unplug the coin mech only so you leave the credit board still connected then fire up the machine,if you still get 5 credits then most likely the credit board is faulty
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sounds like the 50p line is short,unplug the coin mech only so you leave the credit board still connected then fire up the machine,if you still get 5 credits then most likely the credit board is faulty
He's not getting five credits, he's getting "5", which is the Mame keystroke for left coin switch.
I agree with the first part of that though...unplug the mech and see if it still does it. I'm betting it does.
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oh i see,the actual number 5 as a switch stuck on
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In your picture, notice that pin 3 is labeled as N.C. As stated above this is opposite of what you want. If you are comfortable around a soldering iron, you could make a simple inverter with a little piece of perf board and a 7404 inverter chip (should be a couple of bucks, total).
Notice also that pin 9 is 12V. Most likely the comparator (and light) will start working if you connect 12V to this line.
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the N.C means Not Connected on the c220 mechs(wierd british thing),basically its a keyway
the fact that you have no coin light could be that the +12 volts is missing-looks like they spliced that into the main loom rather than use the credit board connection
the credit board should give no signal to the game board until a coin is inserted,if you disconnected the coin mech and still get the problem it is likely credit board at fault
the jumpers on the credit board are coin inhibits
there are 2 dil switch banks,one is under the eprom which has the country settings and 2 channel/direct option(as used on twin games)
the other switch is the coin for credit
strange how it is wired though,the yellow/grey is connected to output 2-i have only ever seen this connected on twin machines not single cabs
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Just to add more info to this little quest:
When I unplug the mech from the board the problem still persists, so I think the credit board is either wired wrong or is broken.
Also, buying a new coin mech is a last resort, obviously I'd like to restore the original one if possible.
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from ultimarc site
Important Legal Note.
For legal reasons we must state here that the J-PAC is not designed to be used in revenue-earning applications where a credit mechanism is used. The J-PAC contains no specific interface functionality for any credit device. Although it has inputs which connect to the JAMMA coin signals, these are designed such that activating a switch connected to them causes the MAME "coin" keycodes (5 or 6) to be sent. These are designed to be used with panel pushbuttons not coin doors or note acceptors.
well you can see the problem,like peale said its to do with normally open/closed config
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from ultimarc site
Important Legal Note.
For legal reasons we must state here that the J-PAC is not designed to be used in revenue-earning applications where a credit mechanism is used. The J-PAC contains no specific interface functionality for any credit device. Although it has inputs which connect to the JAMMA coin signals, these are designed such that activating a switch connected to them causes the MAME "coin" keycodes (5 or 6) to be sent. These are designed to be used with panel pushbuttons not coin doors or note acceptors.
well you can see the problem,like peale said its to do with normally open/closed config
darn. Well what would be the electronic solution for flipping the signal...
From electronics class I would say a NOT gate, but since that was a long time ago I have no idea what to do :)
Any suggestions?
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Had a play at the weekend. When plugging it in bulb does come on for a second then it fades out and is on, but very dim. Then when you turn it off the bulb stays dim for a bit, then shines bright again, then goes off.
Very odd...
I'll just buy a replacement from ultimarc if I don't get this fixed in a couple of weeks
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the best suggestion was made earlier,install a machanical coin mech-it is possible to fit one to that door but you need some good tools and good diy skills.
basically you can fit a mech cradle onto that door buy cutting a few holes,i have done it loads of times.
the bulb dimming thing leads me to believe your +12volts is shorting somewhere-if you got a multimeter on the 12v line you could prove it