Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Adam_GUI on May 02, 2008, 02:05:38 pm
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Hi, all.
I've been working on this little project since January of building a joystick out of a USB pad.
I had been working with a USB sidewinder. Then had the bright idea while sick to take my rotary tool and polish a trace. Ate right through it.
Second, I've bought a pad with analogue from Wal-Mart. The traces are smaller than that of the sidewinder. The pad is held together with screws and super glue.
Upon opening it, the usb connection area separated from the main PCB and will have to be re-soldered. As will, I'm guessing, most of the pad. It just looks sloppy to me.
So what I need is a pad with no analogue, and fairly large button connections.
My method is as follows. Scrape the black connective material. Drill through with the rotary tool. And run 22 gauge stranded copper through the button and solder to the front of the pad.
Looking at ordering this:
http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/gaming/pc_gaming/gamepads/devices/301&cl=us,en
Just need to know if it'll fit my criteria or not.
I can try and use what I've got, but the button traces are too darn small.
Looking forward to getting back to work with you guys's seasoned guidance,
--Adam
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Since this your first post, and I know nothing about your intentions, are you aware of keyboard encoders for hooking up controls?
www.ultimarc.com (http://www.ultimarc.com)
GroovyGameGear (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=76&zenid=db4505169a16b3bef8c7131465950868)
I mean, if you're out buying new gamepads to hack, you might as well see the easier methods.
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Not really aware of keyboard encoders at all.
At the time I started, I simply had the Sidewinder that worked awfully for my fighting games for PC. Virtua Fighter 2, Samurai Showown 2, Fatal Fury 3, SFAlpha, Alpha 2.
So I set out to run wires and build an encasing to make it a joystick via USB.
I already do something similar with my Tekken 5 stick and a Radio Shack USB passthrough.
But it's not really fair because I only have the one stick to plug into my PC or my laptop.
I want an even playing field for when friends come over.
Heck, they've even helped me in the process. To which I'm really grateful. :)
My goal is to have that 2nd stick made by my own two hands.
I've been eyeing some Happ parts. I know how to do what I'm doing from that aspect....I think. I just need a suitable replacement for the sidewinder I killed. Which I'm having a hard time doing.
As long as I can get the PCB intact, I can do what I want and test through Window's Gamepad/joystick calibration.
Only looking to spend $10-$15 for a pad. At this point, it could have been tossed across a room or survived a flood. Just as long as the PCB is intact and everything shows up working.
Bah, I'm probably rambling by this point.
Am I making sense, or am I just going on and on about nothing?
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$10 - 15? How about just slightly more? (Well, plus S/H)
GP-Wiz Eco 32 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_81&products_id=234)
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$10 - 15? How about just slightly more? (Well, plus S/H)
GP-Wiz Eco 32 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_81&products_id=234)
I'm listening. Not sure what you're showing me. But I'm open to ideas.
EDIT:
Taking a closer look.
You just solder one wire to button press? Not sure how to handle ground.
Looks like a good idea. Is there a manual I can read on how to use it? I'm interested.
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Hooks up through PS/2 or USB and shows up as a keyboard, so it's compatible with everything.
This is what the majority of us do to interface our controls with our PCs.
I myself use the Minipac over at www.ultimarc.com (http://www.ultimarc.com), but either product will get the job done.
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It has its own common ground.
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Here's a review of the Minipac that I use
http://retroblast.arcadecontrols.com/reviews/Ultimarc_Mini-Pac-08132006-01.html (http://retroblast.arcadecontrols.com/reviews/Ultimarc_Mini-Pac-08132006-01.html)
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The GP-Wiz looks up my alley. Running wire shouldn't bother me.
Would I split the ground to every button? Daisy-chaining it along the way?
I need eight face buttons, a select (coin) and start.
If I'm building just a one-player panel, can I borrow the two extra buttons from the Player 2 side?
Then, with the Mini-Pac, you just plug the wires down onto the pin, than the wire to the microswitch, right?
I see several prices on the Mini-Pac. Is there one that comes with all wires included?
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Daisy chain is right, borrow the extra buttons from the other side is right. Encoders are the way to go these days. Gamepad hacks just aren't worth it, you save nothing once you factor in your time and they tend to be quite fragile and don't always work as well as they could.
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The minipac with the wiring harness is listed on the site. You can also buy a pre-made ground harness on there as well.
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The minipac with the wiring harness is listed on the site. You can also buy a pre-made ground harness on there as well.
Here's what I'm staring at:
http://www.ultimarc.com/JShopServer/section.php?xSec=3
I see some that come with a wiring/ground harness.
Not sure which I would need though.
It's like standing in the candy isle and debating between almond joy and mounds.
One too many choices on the table.
Am I supposed to be looking at the Mini-PAC Standard. With harness (p/n MP1+028) at $46?
It looks like my best bargain and my easiest wiring choice. Well, it cost a bit more, but I'm not having to cut, strip, measure, and run wire on my own.
I just want to be sure that I'm considering the correct item.
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The last one on that link is what you need.
There's also a ground wiring harness here at the bottom:
http://www.ultimarc.com/JShopServer/section.php?xSec=2 (http://www.ultimarc.com/JShopServer/section.php?xSec=2)
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The Daisy-chain harness? Check.
Well, that's my shopping list.
Thanks!
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Shipping might seem high, but it's coming from the UK.
It's fast shipping though. I've ordered twice from there and both times, I got it here in Oklahoma in like 2 days. (though I have no clue where you even live...)
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Shipping might seem high, but it's coming from the UK.
It's fast shipping though. I've ordered twice from there and both times, I got it here in Oklahoma in like 2 days.
Ouch! This I didn't notice.
Weight 8-10 Pounds boxed? Lighter?
I noticed they had a minimum shipping of $12.
Any customs to deal with?
I know there normally isn't. I've gotten things from South America and Hong Kong without customs. I just want to be sure.
I've got ~$120 set aside for part for the time being. I want to be sure I don't blow it all on the PCB and wires.
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I ordered exactly the same thing as you and my shipping was $14 (this was two months ago).
Then a couple of weeks ago, I ordered two UltraStik 360s plus accessories for $160, plus $17 shipping.
When you see how fast you get your order, and how professional Ultimarc handles your product, you won't mind the extra that is spent.
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You might want to check with Divemaster in the buy sell forum. I think he carries most if not all of the ultimarc stuff. I bought a few things from him a while back and he was great. Plus since he's in the US should save you on shipping and/or customs.
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As far as Divemaster, he only carries the Minipac with the optical connections, not the standard. (Unless this has changed)
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Got the Mini-pac today.
I'm a little confused.
I see the wire-up connection at Ultimarc.
I have the rainbow harness on the pins correctly. That part was a no-brainer.
The color-connection path I can probably follow. But does it alternate between button/ground and connect to either side of the main plug of the microswitch?
Or does it connect one connection disconnect period and go to the metal of the microswitch on the outside part? (Isn't this common ground?)
I'm just not sure what I'm doing, is all.
Thanks.
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The very first wire that's gray or purple is the ground. Check the wiring schematic. Use the ground harness by plugging the female end into the male ground on the rainbow harness.
Then plug your grounds into the outer most microswitch connection on all of your switches, then your appropriate colored wire to the NO which is the blade closest to the ground.
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Better yet, here's a link to the AWESOME video from DeLuSioNal29 showing you all you need to know to get started. I highly recommend you watch it.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=77412.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=77412.0)
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The very first wire that's gray or purple is the ground. Check the wiring schematic. Use the ground harness by plugging the female end into the male ground on the rainbow harness.
Then plug your grounds into the outer most microswitch connection on all of your switches, then your appropriate colored wire to the NO which is the blade closest to the ground.
I've found Purple.
Okay, I see now.
I hadn't unbundled the ground harness until now. And now I see that ground is all chained together.
And thank you for the video. I now know how to wire up the micro-switches on everything.
I'm just some plywood, nails, drilling, and clear-coating away from gaming with this. =)
You guys are awesome.
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Glad I could help. (I kinda took over the helper duties on this thread)