Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: anewcomb on May 01, 2008, 09:50:03 pm
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I need some advice on what to do next (if anything) for my cabinet finish. Here is what I have done so far ...
1) Filled and sanded any screw/nail holes.
2) Applied 2 coats of tinted latex primer (something called ZAP from Lowes) thinned with Flotrol.
3) Sanded smooth with 220 grit sandpaper.
4) Applied 3 coats of black semi-gloss latex paint thinned with Flotrol.
I used a low volume sprayer attachment (found at Harbor Freight Tools) with my small compressor. It seems to work alright, but I have never used a sprayer like this before. The cabinet looks alright from a distance, but when you are up close and the light is shining on it it looks like this (see attached image).
The question I have is should I live with the finish the way it is, or is there a way to even out the finish without applying another coat?
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I've always rolled on the paint. To spray it on definently requires a steady hand. Looks like it was too thick when it was sprayed on.
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Not sure on cabinets, but I know on other stuff, if you get an orange peel finish like that, you can sand it with fine paper till it's smooth then give it another coat of paint. I know on motorcycle stuff you can wet sand, not sure on wood.
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I need some advice on what to do next (if anything) for my cabinet finish. Here is what I have done so far ...
1) Filled and sanded any screw/nail holes.
2) Applied 2 coats of tinted latex primer (something called ZAP from Lowes) thinned with Flotrol.
3) Sanded smooth with 220 grit sandpaper.
4) Applied 3 coats of black semi-gloss latex paint thinned with Flotrol.
I used a low volume sprayer attachment (found at Harbor Freight Tools) with my small compressor. It seems to work alright, but I have never used a sprayer like this before. The cabinet looks alright from a distance, but when you are up close and the light is shining on it it looks like this (see attached image).
The question I have is should I live with the finish the way it is, or is there a way to even out the finish without applying another coat?
It looks like you didn't sand it really smooth BEFORE applying the primer. Is that the case?
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Yeah. I thought it was too thick when it was going on, but since I had never used one before I wasn't sure. I did some tests before I started, but I got too antsy and just went for it. I have some wet sanding paper that I thought I might try once the paint cures, but I would like to avoid doing another top coat.
I did sand the primer very well (but not through to the wood) before I started the top coat.
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It looks like you didn't sand it really smooth BEFORE applying the primer. Is that the case?
Yeah I did sand smooth before the primer as well. :(
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Here's a couple tutorials I found helpful:
Tutorial 1 (http://www.mnpctech.com/case-mod-paint-computer-pc-case-mod-how-to1.html)
Tutorial 2 (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=83141&highlight=)
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Thanks Wunder. I have read each of these a couple of times. They are both going for a mirror finish which I am not. However, I noticed this time in the PC Case tutorial that he does not apply any lacquer and just wet sands and buffs the paint directly after it has cured for a few weeks. This tells me that it is possible for me to do this as well. I think I will wait a few weeks and give it a try on the back of the cabinet to see how it comes out. I will post anther picture with the result. Thanks for making me look at these another time!
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Or you could leave it that way. Has character.
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That's not a bad idea either. On my CP, I put on a bunch of coats of paint and it had a bit of a rough look to it. I then sanded it down, and in some spots the paint chipped away back to the primer/wood. Not a HUGE spot, but a tiny little nick. I was thinking about re-painting it, but now that the artwork is on the CP kind of has some used character to it that I really like. I think I might purposely scratch areas of it to make it look like it's been used. I think as a whole those of us in this hobby try too much to create pristine, brand new looking cabs. Real machines have character and signs of use, and that's what I'm trying to go for.