Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: metalskin on April 28, 2008, 06:02:46 pm
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G'day Guys,
I'm about to start building my own cocktail cab and have a question about both bracing and joining.
I've been using the PacMan plans to assist in drawing up my own plans and to help understand the construction techniques.
In the PacMan plans the author has used wooden bracing for the base corner support, corner gussets and corner supports. In the plans the material for this is pine (of various sizes). However while browsing my local hardware store I noticed a range of metal support brackets of all different shapes and sizes.
So my first question is, what type of supports should I use, if any, in my cocktail cab?
While I was browsing my local hardware store I noticed a range of hex nuts that you can embed in wood and then use a bolt to screw into them. The diagrams showed them being used on table legs. At the same time I noticed connection similar to what you see Ikea and Freedom use (sorta two ended hollow screw doohickies). As well as the classic biscuit and dowel stuff.
So for joinery, do I need to use anything and if so what is recommended?
Note that I posted the above questions on aussiearcade (cause its local to me) and got the following answer:
Block, glue and staple
I'm not 100% certain what that means, the glue is clear, the staple isn't and the block is?!?!
In advance, yhanks for your help guys.
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You can use metal brackets if you want. Blocking is better/cheaper though.
As to your last comment, I'm not sure what your question is. That quote is basically telling you how to make your joints. You line up the block flush with the edge of one side. You then glue both the piece and the block, then staple/nail/screw it together. You can also clamp it if you prefer. Then you do the same for the other side, thus forming the joint.
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In the PacMan plans the author has used wooden bracing for the base corner support, corner gussets and corner supports. In the plans the material for this is pine (of various sizes). However while browsing my local hardware store I noticed a range of metal support brackets of all different shapes and sizes.
So my first question is, what type of supports should I use, if any, in my cocktail cab?
How long do you want it to last? My personal experience suggests that for strength it's hard to beat wood glue and screws. If you use metal brackets, nut and bolts you'll end up with something that's pretty strong. If you just use screws with a metal bracket, they'll eventually start to loosen up. If your cabinet isn't moved or abused, the loosening might take quite a while.
While I was browsing my local hardware store I noticed a range of hex nuts that you can embed in wood and then use a bolt to screw into them. The diagrams showed them being used on table legs. At the same time I noticed connection similar to what you see Ikea and Freedom use (sorta two ended hollow screw doohickies). As well as the classic biscuit and dowel stuff.
So for joinery, do I need to use anything and if so what is recommended?
Using these sorts of fasteners generally requires more precision that using a block of wood, glue, and some screws. Do you need to be able to disassemble your cabinet for some reason? If not, I'd stick with the standard wood blocks (a.k.a. "blocking"), yellow glue, and screws. Simple, quick, and fairly strong...
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I used the blocking method but used 1x2s and screwed them in to the bottom, the countersank the screws from the side, then used patch-n-paint to fill the holes, sanded, painted. looks good
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Biscuits (and wood glue) are your friend. I just started using them for cabinet joinery and not only do they provide an unbelievably strong bond, they line everything up perfectly so nothing slips during clamping. Biscuit joiners are pretty cheap and really only took about an hour to learn to use. I highly recommend them. :cheers:
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Biscuits (and wood glue) are your friend. I just started using them for cabinet joinery and not only do they provide an unbelievably strong bond, they line everything up perfectly so nothing slips during clamping. Biscuit joiners are pretty cheap and really only took about an hour to learn to use. I highly recommend them. :cheers:
I used a biscuit joiner on a flower box project recently and loved it. It has its places for use, and I really think blocking is a far superior/quicker joining method for this application. Where biscuit joints really shine is in butt joints - which are not used here.
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Thanks for the info guys, really appreciate all the help.
I got a better understanding of blocking now... so basically you have an L shape join, you put a block of pine say 30x30mm or 18x18mm along the inside of the join and then you glue and screw or nail.. I presume screws are better to increase strength.
One question is do you screw from the block into boards or from the boards into the block? I would have thought the later as to me it would be stronger, but then wouldn't that mess up your painting surface? Obviously you can counter drill and fill afterwards...
Sorry for the newbish questions.
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It can go either way. If you use 1x1 pine, then it is 3/4" thick. Using 1-1/4" screws, you could go inside or outside and it wouldn't matter. If you use thicker blocking, then screwing from the outside would be preferable. Drive the screws below the service and putty over the hole.