Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: Bibliophile on April 27, 2008, 06:30:27 pm
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Hello, everybody.
I have a showcase cab with a 50" projection monitor that I believe uses three projection tubes (red, blue, and green). For some reason, the three different images are not focused resulting in a little ghost image. Some pics of it can be seen below.
I am wondering how I can focus all three images, but I am not finding any buttons to do so, and I am not finding any info on the internet on how to do so.
Any assistance on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1415.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1414.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1413.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1746.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1747.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1748.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1749.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1750.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1751.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1752.jpg)
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thats a convergence fault,aaaarrrrrrr :(
what make/model is it?
if you are real lucky you only have to converge the the colours using the handset
if you are unlucky then the convergence board is faulty
my bet is that this is a mitsubishi vs50609
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and likely analog convergence at that ( a bank of multiple pots ) . oooo, what fun !
a crosshatch pattern will come in handy if more than just a touch up.
pse post the model number ;)
qrz
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Thanks, guys.
I will see if I can locate a model number on it somewhere and post it tomorrow hopefully.
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Convergence issues is a very common problem for projection tvs. The board that focuses the three crts is going to need some assistance. What you will need is to locate the board with your convergence amps (usually has 1 or 2 large heatsinks on it) and replace the amps. They will usually have a part number on them like stk-110 or the like. In order to do this you are going to need to pull the board and fire up a soldering iron. A supplier that I have used in the past is Audiolabga.com . If they have two versions (one that is $15 and on that is $40, buy the 40s). Good luck!
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Sorry it took so long to reply. But I think I found the model number. I believe it is one of the following:
WGP5000-K00S36K
WG1699947.
I have attached photos of the numbers on it, as well as of the PCB and electronics inside.
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1960.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1961.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1962.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1964.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1965.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1966.jpg)
Please tell me how I can get this monitor to focus properly. Any assistance on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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well according to that sticker its a wells gardner-never seen it tough so i am would say that was a united states issued only
this a later type projector where the convergence can be set using a remote control(same as a tv controller)
you will need a remote for this model and the convergence guide,maybe you can get that from wells gardner or namco
if you cannot converge using the remote then the problem will be the convergence ic which is located on the left hand side board mounted vertically
http://www.namcoarcade.com/nai_tech.asp
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This is not going to be solved with a remote control. I have repaired many of this style tv, and this is going to involve some soldering and electronics skills. You will need to remove this board and desolder this part. Once you have installed your new one your tv should function normal again. If it does not go right away there are usually resistors or capacitors that blow right around the chip when this goes. This is about the easiest fix that you could hope for, but I recommend calling up a buddy who is good with soldering to replace this part.
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Okay. I have some more questions. I took some more pics:
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1974.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1976.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1976.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1977.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1978.jpg)
1. Is the black box next to the heat sink that part that I need to replace?
2. If so, what is it called? Does it have a part numbers?
3. Where can I get them?
4. Also, there are actually two similar parts, one on one heat sink visible from the rear of the machine, the other on another heat sink visible from the front of the machine. The former is shown in the first two pics above. The latter is shown in the very last pic above. Do I need to replace both of them or just the one facing the rear of the machine. Please let me know. Thanks.
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The very first picture is what you are replacing
I can't quite tell from the picture if there are 2 or 1 but you need to replace that big black part that is attached to the heatsink. If there is one on the front and the back of the heat sink then you will want to replace both. These parts are 3 channel convergence amps. The website I listed at the top of the thread stocks these parts ( www.audiolabga.com (http://www.audiolabga.com) ) . In order to get the right one I recommend unplugging the board and removing the cover that is pressing the amp onto the heat sink. There will be a part number that is silk screened right under that cover. It will say something along the lines of stk-330 or 440. You will want to head over there and order 2.
For the install I recommend getting your soldering buddy to put the new amps in. Get your low wattage soldering iron out with your de-soldering braid and remove the pins one by one, and do the same thing in reverse. Before you completely remove everything, get out a black sharpie and label each connector that plugs into this board with a letter and match that to where you plug it back in. Tvs often have many sets of connectors that have the same plug that carry different type signals. If you plug the wrong cable into the wrong place on your board you may accidentally fry your tv, and have to spend a lot of money on a tv repairman.
Hopefully once you replace these you will be done. If the issue is the same pull the board again and check your soldering joints by heating up all the pins and letting the solder settle into the joint. If its still having issues you will need to take a digital multimeter and check all of the resistors and capacitors on this board.
Last but not least, go to a local computer store to pick up some computer heat sink compound to put between the amp and the heatsink. The best brand to buy is called Liquid Silver. When you put it on, do not gob it on. Less is better and just put enough on so that you can't see the heat sink underneath TIP:use a old credit card or grocery store card to spread the compound onto the heat sink. Good luck!
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Here is a good picture of a convergence IC
(http://www.audiolabga.com/images/STK392-040.jpg)
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Curious to see how its going. Did you end up doing the repair yet?
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Curious to see how its going. Did you end up doing the repair yet?
Thanks for asking. I haven't done the repair yet, but last night my friend came over. We pulled the board out, and looked over everything. Now I just need to order the replacement convergence amps, and then we will install them. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks.
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I'm excited to see how it works:-) :cheers:
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I got the parts, and I am trying to replace them, but the two amps appear to be glued (heat sink compound) to the heat sink. How can I get them separated from the heat sink without damaging anything?
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when i replace ic's i tend to cut the legs first with high quality side cutters,it makes it very easy to remove the component without breaking track and also easy to desolder the legs-normally i pull each leg out by applying the solder iron for a few seconds and pulling them out with side cutters,then i desolder the track through holes.
when you remove the ic you will need to apply new heat sinc compound,first clean the old stuff off
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id be willing to bet the heat sink compound just dried to it. Also check for any rogue screws. Just insert a screw driver right in between the ic and the heat sink and pry ever so lightly. If its not coming along, most heat sinks are soldered into the board it sits on. Just de-solder the whole assembly in one piece.
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This monitor looks like a Pioneer RPTV that I had in my Namco Prop Cycle.
after taking off the front echoen for cleaning i found the control PCB well hidden with the Auto convergence, They can be upset by transporting the units.
in my case I had a gased blue tube (internal arcing) keeping an eye out for a 50" RPTV with SCART.
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Okay, today, I finally got around to removing the two convergence amp IC chips and replacing them with new ones, and I am still getting the exact same problem. It hasn't helped one bit.
I'd appreciate it anyone could help me figure out what is wrong with my monitor, and how I can fix it. Thanks.
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you need to see if the convergence adjust has any affect on the colours before you can move forward with this
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K, you are going to need the service manual at this point. From here on you are, as Grant said, going to have to test the manual convergence and from there you will need to pull the board and go component to component to check for faults. Also make sure that you triple check all of your solder joints on that ic. There are plenty of options to either cross a pin or make a cold solder. Outside of that my board level expertise starts to get iffy. All I know is that if the adjustment doesn't help, you'll need to do some more serious work.
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if a convergence ic develops an internal short it may take out the safety resistors on the convergence board and pico fuses on the power supply board.
that is extreme though and the most likely fault would be the convergence ic only,sometimes when you change these ic everything is almost back in convergence and other times it isn't-this is why you need to test the manual convergence and normally you need a remote to some degree
although not the same monitor here is a link to some of my work concerning rptv-it gives an idea of what to look at
http://www.killercabs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13411
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you need to see if the convergence adjust has any affect on the colours before you can move forward with this
I changed out the two convergence IC's, and it seems to have had no effect at all.
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thats a bummer,
you need to see if you have lost a voltage,check all the resistors and meter at test points.
dunno about your rptv but toshiba convergence boards have voltage reference points so you can check you are getting the +25v and +15v
so what happened when you tried to adjust the convergence using the handset?
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I don't think this unit has a handset. (Do you mean remote, or something else?) If it is supposed to have one, I didn't get one with it.
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i mentioned the remote control/handset at the beginning of this post,you will need this to make any adjustments to the convergence
bit pointless trying to fix this without a remote control
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Hello, everybody.
I just wanted to give everybody an update to let everyone know how my convergence issue turned. I finally got the convergence fixed. It turns out that there were about 12 bad capacitors on one board that connects to the main convergence board.
The board with the bad capacitors is circled in the pic below:
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/My%20Arcade/IMG_1965modified.jpg)
The bad capacitors look like the following:
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/My%20Arcade/IMG_2702.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/My%20Arcade/IMG_2703.jpg)
Now that the capacitors have been replaced, the convergence is normal as it should be, as shown be the pics below:
BEFORE
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1748.jpg)
AFTER
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/My%20Arcade/IMG_2694.jpg)
BEFORE
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1749.jpg)
AFTER
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/My%20Arcade/IMG_2701.jpg)
BEFORE
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1750.jpg)
AFTER
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/My%20Arcade/IMG_2697.jpg)
I especially want to say thanks to Grantspain and Uprightbass360 for their helpful information. Thanks to both of you.
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wow looks great and i am happy it is all working
a very strange set of problems you had-no way i would have gone toward those caps unless this is a common fault with that board
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wow looks great and i am happy it is all working
a very strange set of problems you had-no way i would have gone toward those caps unless this is a common fault with that board
Grant, you were right about one thing. There is supposed to be a remote/handset for this monitor, that I am missing. However, the remote controls the vertical/horizontal position of the display, not the convergence.
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Well done ! :applaud:
I'm just wondering what led you to look at those caps ? Did you see anything strange involving one or more of them (crack / burn marks) ? Or did you use trial n error to test and locate them ?
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Well done ! :applaud:
I'm just wondering what led you to look at those caps ? Did you see anything strange involving one or more of them (crack / burn marks) ? Or did you use trial n error to test and locate them ?
To be honest, I didn't look at them. I had a local television repairman take a look at it. From what he said, I think he just found them to be the source of the problem by trial and error and excluding everything else. There was nothing physically noticeably wrong with the caps. But once he tested them, he noticed something wrong.
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just an FYI,
most surface mount 'lytics have a very short sevice life ...
(< 5000 hrs) as compaired to their thru hole cousins.
congrats on getting them changed . that can sometimes be a challenge .
qrz