Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Lutus on April 19, 2008, 10:42:31 pm
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So a week back I bought that Ms Pac-man and a pinball machine for 150.
Pac played blind and I ordered a G07 repair kit from Bob.
Pulled the chassis out and the original flyback was in two pieces with the copper windings coming out the side!!!!
I desoldered the flyback and the iron core fell out the bottom.
Finished the cap kit and performed the "upgrade" bob describes in his instructions.
Turned the machine on and it's all garbled on the screen, but the monitor looked good. ::)
Opened the coin door and the gameboard rebooted and it worked great. Closed the coin door and the garbled screen again!! :dunno
Come to find out, when the door was closed it shorted some of the wires to the coin door. Cleaned all that up and the thing works like a champ.
BUT that's not all.
I moved the machine to it's resting place and turned it back on, only to see the dreaded HUM BAR. Dangit.
Opened the machine back up, after some head scratching I saw the one of the clips on the fuse block, the leg was completely gone. The fuse wasn't making a good connection.
Replaced the fuse block, put in one of those 8 dollar under the kitchen lights, and put on new CPO art and bezel.
Will post pics tomorrow but I am too busy playing Ms Pac right now.
BTW, I have some version of sped up Ms Pacman. How can I tell which version of speed hack I have and how can I revert it back to normal speed?
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WELL WELL WELL
The HUM bar is back.
Will deal with it tomorrow. Need to eraser the PCB edge connector as it is super dirty.
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Congrats on the score but a bummer about the issues.
Mate, can you do me a favour please?
I need somes measurements off a Ms Pac to complete some drawings.
I need:
1: How far is the kickplate set back from the side?
2: How far is the marquee set back from the side?
3: What size is the CP ( the front black bit and the part with the joys and buttons)
Thanks in advance.
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I will take a couple of pics this evening and you can mark on them what measurements you are wanting and I can do just that for you. No problem.
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Thanks heaps!
I need the measurements below:
(http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL757/2715941/19311410/314349410.jpg)
Top is marquee (1 measurement) and the bottom is around the CP area (3 measurements).
:cheers:
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Alrighty dimensions time peeps!
I included pictures just so you can confirm this is the dimensions you wanted.
Marquee inset dimensions: 1" exactly (not including T-molding)
Control panel top: little under 7" hard to say since it is curved
Control panel front: 3 and 3/4" curved, but easier to tell
Kick panel inset: 1/3"
Did you want the control panel dimensions or the piece of wood that the control panel sits on?
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You are a legend!!!! And with photos!!!
Thats awesome, awesome, awesome.
Thats all I need. Oh, what piece of wood does the CP sit on? Is it the one that runs side to side which also supports the plexi?
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A classic is saved! :applaud: :cheers:
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You are a legend!!!! And with photos!!!
Thats awesome, awesome, awesome.
Thats all I need. Oh, what piece of wood does the CP sit on? Is it the one that runs side to side which also supports the plexi?
Back in ten minutes with photos.... hang on
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OK, so interesting design so that the control panel covers a portion of the bezel.
On to the show...
First pic shows that the control panel rests on the two metal wings on the left and right side, on the front of the cab itself (wood) and rests/covers about an inch of the bezel.
Second pic attempts to show a side view of the wood that holds the bezel in. There is a thin lip built into the piece of wood so the bezel doesn't slide forward
Third pic, painter's tape marks the top of the CPO when installed and the last pic shows the overlap amount of the control panel.
Hope that makes sense. :cheers:
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Lutus... Did you get Paul Johnson to sneak in there and take those photos? :laugh2:
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Cool.
I thought it might look like that inside. It's kind of a standard way to build that area.
Many, many thanks.
Next week I can start my scratch build.
:cheers:
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Lutus... Did you get Paul Johnson to sneak in there and take those photos? :laugh2:
I did but I had a hard time finding him. He would be laying on the ground one second and then peeking his head around from the back of the cab the next second. Very sneaky.
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I replaced the edge connector with a new one molex one with new pins and the HUM BAR is GONE.
Thank God. I let it burn in for 2 hours at least and it is all good.
After I did this, I did have some chip errors showing erroneous graphics and such but reseated the chips and all is well.
Just posting my solution to the hum bar.
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Ok, a little more concise and to help those using the search funtion in the future....
How to get rid of hum bar in Ms Pac-man
1- remove RF filter board
2- replace fuse blocks and sand down the fuse ends before replacing in fuse block
3- replace connector that connects to the "pcb edge connector" with a new housing and new pins
4- pink eraser to the edge connector of the pcb
If that doesn't do it, you have other problems that I didn't have.
There you go. :cheers:
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Nice work and pics! :cheers:
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Bah hum bar!
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...Second pic attempts to show a side view of the wood that holds the bezel in. There is a thin lip built into the piece of wood so the bezel doesn't slide forward...
the lip... would that be this?
(see attached pic)
Third pic, painter's tape marks the top of the CPO when installed and the last pic shows the overlap amount of the control panel.
the overlap... is that 1 inch?
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The overlap IS 1 inch.
The lip you can kinda see is part of the wood. It is an 1/8" that sticks up like a 1/16" or an 1/8" higher than the rest of the wood at the bottom of the bezel.
It is at the bottom of the piece of wood (toward the control panel)
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thanks!
hmmm... the part i posted is supposed to be the bezel art retainer, wonder where that goes then... :dunno
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Well, you can only push the glass bezel so far towards the BACK of the machine. Let me take a look at mine tonight and see if it goes in the back of the machine. Quite possible.
I'll get back with you
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ok, thanks.