Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: crackbone on May 26, 2003, 07:02:21 pm
-
Hi all!
I'm at the finish line for my cabinet (thank god!!!!) and I'm drilling the CP now.
My question is this-
I have a 3/4 " CP, with a 1/8" Lexan overlay, with happs competition joysticks to put in. When I'm drilling the holes, what width should I make the holes for the joysticks?
I know people have mentioned that the range of motion might be limited if I don't route the bottom out, so if that's the case can I make a wider hole to accomadate this?
Thanks for any advice... I'd like to only drill this once :)
Crack.
-
Typically people make a 1 1/4" dia hole and route out a 1/4" of the control panel thickness.
-
Well, i'll tell you my experience.
I have a 3/4 " plywood top panel and i routed out a 2/8" amount of wood from the underside of the panel to allow for my joysticks to be up high enough.
I ended up useing a black and decker rotary saw which i could set how deep it would cut and it worked great!
Ild say if you haven't put your panel together yet (ie: the sides and bottom) then use a router to cut your depth. it seems like you will need to cut out about 3/8'ths deep to get a good joystick throw.
i also ended up useing an 1 3/4 inch hole saw for the hole for the joystick. It worked great!
Might want to get a second oppinion on how deep to recess the routing to allow for the lexan as i didnt use any lexan. I found some good enamel paint works just as good. :) Lesscutting too hehehe.
-
*cough* I don't have competitions (I have super clones)... but i used 1 1/8" hole saw (same as my buttons) for my joysticks... on 3/4" plywood (no lexan on top)...
*shrug* I don't think you could go wrong with either 1 1/4" or 1 1/8" for joystick holes... just being contentious.
rampy
-
Both my supers and (hacked) competitions have 1 1/8" holes, but 1 1/4" will work too. Routered about 1/4" to 3/8" on the bottom, and am very pleased with the results, but some people complain that 3/8" isn't enough. *shrug*
-
what is a "hacked" competition?
Yes competitions have a designed mounting depth in 1/2" wood so 3/4" needs routing to clear it out for the "proper" stick height. I find that Ultimates fit fine in 3/4 but many people here hate them.
1.125" needs to be dead center if you want 3/4" + an acrylic overlay. If it's not lined up in the dead center then you'll wear a ring in your handle cause it'll hit.
-
I mounted my competitions in 3/4" mdf...like stated over and over above, I routered them in 1/4" and used 1 1/8" hole same as my buttons, plenty of room and no problems
-
I'm using 1/2' MDF with 1/8" lexan over it. Can a paddle bit be used rather than a hole saw?
-
I'm using 1/2' MDF with 1/8" lexan over it. Can a paddle bit be used rather than a hole saw?
yup if paddle== spade bit in my terminology.
you can also use a forstners bit (but better off with a drill press/guide)
*shrug*
rampy
-
wish i had a drill press, dont and i need to go through 1/8 lexan and the 1/2 inch MDF. hoping to clamp the 2 pieces together and drill in one shot.
-
wish i had a drill press, dont and i need to go through 1/8 lexan and the 1/2 inch MDF. hoping to clamp the 2 pieces together and drill in one shot.
It's not required (except it's a good idea with a forstners bit, from what I understand)... and is helpful with other bits obviously... but plenty of people have done just fine with spade/paddle/hole saw bits without a drill press, including me...
Just wanted to give you more information than you needed, i think=P
rampy
-
mucho helpful, but yet one more trip to the Home Despot shall be required. My Wife, is going to kill me.
-
wish i had a drill press, dont and i need to go through 1/8 lexan and the 1/2 inch MDF. hoping to clamp the 2 pieces together and drill in one shot.
drill press isn't the best for this because of the fact that your control panel might just be too wide. There another tool which fits on a hand drill that guilds the bit down for a perpendicular hole. I forgot what it's called. but it goes on your hand drill. I basicall put my control panel on the ground and drill down using my weight to hold the acrylic onto the MDF
-
what is a "hacked" competition?
Very much like oscar's triggerstick hack (http://www.oscarcontrols.com/projects/triggerstick.shtml)