Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Robert Preston on March 13, 2002, 06:35:52 pm
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Hiya, I really want to build a showcase style cab but I was wondering if anyone has some dimensions that would help me out... if not I'll take a drive down to my local arcade and measure the MvsC2 and CvsSNK (and look like an ass)... also a question, I've never done any type of wiring/soldering/anything with electronics before and I was wondering if it's possible to make it so I can connect the same controls to both a Dreamcast and a PC either at the same time, or quickly swappable?
Also, what is the cheapest type of material I can use that will still work for building a sturdy cab?
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Probably the easiest way to get something that will work on Dreamcast and PC at the same time is to use an Ipac instead of a keyboard hack, so that that you can use a common wire for all of your buttons. I kind of illustrate how this feature would work on this page, but I'm not an expert, as I have not yet verified that this works:
http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/multi.htm
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I wouldn't connect them both at the same time. It has to high a chance to blow each other up.
But if you want to go with hotswappable control panels (good idea anyway), then you will want to have a connector on each control panel and on each system. Like multiple 25pin serial connections. Then you have one female or male side for the computer and one for the Dreamcast. Then one of the other gender for the each control panel.
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Oh yeah, I also forgot to mention, a good choice for an inexpensive building material is Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF), which you can buy at the Home Depot. Either that or Pressboard, which you can have them cut for you. They won't cut MDF for safety reasons. Careful that you don't drop or bang it on anything.
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safety reasons? what kinda threat does MDF pose?
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Did some digging on www.osha.gov and here's what I found:
"Hardwoods in general such as beech, oak and mahogany and native hardwoods (eucalypts) generate fine particles of dust and this has a prime link with nasal cancers. Softwood timbers from coniferous trees such as pine, are less of a risk. Medium density fibreboard (MDF) poses another problem due to the bonding agent and should be treated the same as hardwood. A properly designed and maintained exhaust system is the best method of collecting the dust and is the ideal way. However if this is not practical, dust respirators should be used whenever you are exposed to dust, not only when you are actually processing your work. The following list of some timbers and the effects that they might have should be kept in the workshop."
I got that from this page: http://home.vicnet.net.au/~woodlink/dust.htm?
From personal experience, it makes ALOT of dust when cutting with power tools.
Later,
Billabong
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thanks cd_vision! i'll check your page out
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Oh yeah, I also forgot to mention, a good choice for an inexpensive building material is Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF), which you can buy at the Home Depot. Either that or Pressboard, which you can have them cut for you. They won't cut MDF for safety reasons. Careful that you don't drop or bang it on anything.
Why does everyone keep saying MDF is cheaper? I bought some MDF for another project and was suprised at how expensive it was! Maybe it was because the stuff I bought was primered...but damn it was expensive! For my arcade projects I found Melamine to be much cheaper (at least at Home Depot)....and no laminating needed!
-Dave
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An 8 foot by 4 foot section of unfinished MDF is about $11. That's pretty cheap.
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http://www.russprince.com/cabinet/
Check out the 'Control Circuit' Link, he made a budget radio shack hack with a switch on the front for the control panel.