The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: pcb on March 21, 2008, 08:10:45 pm
-
Here's the first prototype of new Nintendo 4-way joysticks.
For more pictures see: http://www.mikesarcade.com/temp/Misc/njoy4-way/
I'm trying to get a feel for how much interest there is in the project. Let me know what you think.
Best,
- Mike -
-
Very nice work Mike!!!
I would only
suggest adding the gold colored piece under the ball though, it does not look quite right without it.
I hope there is a lot of interest in these. I will want one at some point, but I just got all the parts together to complete a used one. I wish you would have had this out a month ago. :)
Paul
-
muchos interest...go forth dude.
-
I can't remember is the 4 way restrictor plate on the underside? Looks nice
-
Awesome...yes...definite interest. Please pursue it. You'd be the only supplier. That's great market share dude.
-
Amazing. I'd buy one for sure. Would you be selling the parts separately as well?
I agree that it would be nice if it had the amber collar on the shaft below the ball.
I have a few questions, out of curiosity:
- Is the shaft chromed or stainless?
- Are you having the balltops made or are they an off-the-shelf part?
- Did you end up finding a source for the centering springs?
- Will you be making the short shaft for metal control panels too?
I'd like to see the Super Punch-Out joystick reproduced. I've been thinking about having it done myself. I already have an SPO joystick but it would be nice to replace the rusted shaft at least; plus I know several people who want one (their lack of availability is one of the main barriers to converting a Punch-Out machine to Super Punch-Out).
An SPO joystick is the most versatile of the short shaft Nintendo joysticks, since it can be used for all Nintendo metal CP games, given the right restrictor.
There are 3 main parts that are different compared to a regular short shaft Nintendo joystick: the shaft (has a threaded extension on the bottom to accept the brass "bell"), the brass "bell", and the stamped steel L-shaped microswitch holder bracket (similar to the switch holder on a Nintendo pushbutton).
-
it looks magnificently
-price?
-will be octagonal restrictors?
-
Interested!!
-
Looking very nice man!! looks identical to the original! well very close anyways.
(http://neilyboy.mtco.com/pics/nintendojoys/joys01.jpg)
very impressive man.
Neil
-
I don't' have a final price yet. Still have to add up the costs.
The shafts are zinc plated steel, like you'd see on a Reunion stick.
Yes, the parts will be available.
Two ball tops will be available, 1.18" (30mm) and 1" (25.4mm), both have M8 x 1.25 threads like the original.
The 'yellow' plastic ring was originally clear, I'm looking for suitable material for these.
The springs are custom wound just for this project.
The microswtiches are Omron's closest available micro to the original, the bend was custom done specifically for Nintendo, however the straight actuator seems to work just fine on the stick.
The screws are all self-tapping screws, they work well and form a nice solid thread.
The 4-way restrictor on the bottom can be replaced with an 8-way or an 2-way if desired.
I may run some of the different shafts, I recently acquired some with the extra threads on bottom, but need a 'brass bell' to see if these can be repro'd also.
- Mike -
-
Yes! I'll take one! Nice work!
-
Looking very nice man!! looks identical to the original! well very close anyways.
(http://neilyboy.mtco.com/pics/nintendojoys/joys01.jpg)
very impressive man.
Neil
Is that a PK ring I see ?
-
WANT
-
I'll certainly buy one as well. Will the ball have a set screw in it?
-
Mike, I forgot to ask if your repro joystick was improved upon the original? The biggest problem I'm having with the original is it wobbliness at center position, largely due to the spacing between the sticks shaft and the metal leafs. Some have been looking for a nylon washer to wrap around that shaft to "snug" it up more on center.
-
Mike, I forgot to ask if your repro joystick was improved upon the original? The biggest problem I'm having with the original is it wobbliness at center position, largely due to the spacing between the sticks shaft and the metal leafs. Some have been looking for a nylon washer to wrap around that shaft to "snug" it up more on center.
Isn't that how it's supposed to be, though? I thought the point of this was to capture the original feel too, no?
-
Well, I don't know. The DK I have has an original leaf switch Wico on it from Nintendo and it is snug and great to play. It's my DK Jr. that has the regular version like this reproduction, but it almost seems broken it's so loose on center. That can't be the intent they had IMO. But perhaps it's just mine that's doing it.
-
Well, I don't know. The DK I have has an original leaf switch Wico on it from Nintendo and it is snug and great to play. It's my DK Jr. that has the regular version like this reproduction, but it almost seems broken it's so loose on center. That can't be the intent they had IMO. But perhaps it's just mine that's doing it.
That's they way they all are. It is a matter of personal preference whether it bothers you or not. It doesn't bother me for example.
If you put in a heavy enough spring it would keep it more firmly centered and give it more of a "breaking off center" feel when you move it to any of the directions.
And your Wico was not from Nintendo, it was from Wico (they made a version that was a direct replacement for a Nintendo DK stick, but Nintendo had nothing to do with it).
-
I don't' have a final price yet. Still have to add up the costs.
The shaft in the picture is chrome, but the finals will be in Stainless Steel.
Yes, the parts will be available.
Two ball tops will be available, 1 1/4" (31.5mm) and 1" (25.4mm), both have M8 x 1.25 threads like the original.
The 'yellow' plastic ring was originally clear, I'm looking for suitable material for these.
The springs are custom wound just for this project.
The microswtiches are Omron's closest available micro to the original, the bend was custom done specifically for Nintendo, however the straight actuator seems to work just fine on the stick.
The screws are all Stainless self-tapping screws, they work well and form a nice solid thread.
The 4-way restrictor on the bottom can be replaced with an 8-way or an 4 way if desired.
I may run some of the different shafts, I recently acquired some with the extra threads on bottom, but need a 'brass bell' to see if these can be repro'd also.
- Mike -
Excellent. I can't wait to try one out. BTW, how long would you need to have access to a brass "bell" from an SPO joystick for in order to make a reproduction? I'm planning to take the relevant SPO stick parts to a local machinist and see what they think, as soon as I get my truck back from the garage. What if I could get the parts documented? Would that be something you could work with? Or potentially, what about you working directly with my local machinist? I'm just thinking out loud here though; I don't even know if it is something they can/would do or how big of an order they would require, what it would cost, etc.
-
BTW, how long would you need to have access to a brass "bell" from an SPO joystick for in order to make a reproduction?
I'd need it long enough to measure it up and draw it. Same with the extra switch pieces on the bottom.
FYI, the only difference is between it and a DK stick is the treads on the bottom, and the part under the ball is 17.5mm instead of 22mm. It's close enough that I could change the shaft design to just add the threads for the bell at the bottom.
As for the slop, yes it still has the same slop! I'm looking at different things to try and minimize it. I could offer a fatter actuator that would make contact quicker. But it probably wouldn't work well as a 4-way in that case, I'll play with that idea after the repros are done.
-
BTW, how long would you need to have access to a brass "bell" from an SPO joystick for in order to make a reproduction?
I'd need it long enough to measure it up and draw it. Same with the extra switch pieces on the bottom.
FYI, the only difference is between it and a DK stick is the treads on the bottom, and the part under the ball is 17.5mm instead of 22mm. It's close enough that I could change the shaft design to just add the threads for the bell at the bottom.
As for the slop, yes it still has the same slop! I'm looking at different things to try and minimize it. I could offer a fatter actuator that would make contact quicker. But it probably wouldn't work well as a 4-way in that case, I'll play with that idea after the repros are done.
If you "fix" the slop I hope you only do it as an option. Some people like Nintendo joysticks just the way they are, and some people want them to feel original whether they like that particular feel or not (for the sake of authenticity and/or nostalgia).
Also, I mentioned this thread over on the KLOV forums so you may want to keep an eye on that too for gauging interest - link (http://forums.webmagic.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=705737&an=0&page=0#Post705737).
-
Actually, I think strick original is fine. For preference though, I am going to try a stronger spring as MaximRecoil suggested because I'd like to feel the break from center when playing. Should make it feel more sturdy too.
-
I knew that yellow piece wasn't originally like that. I've been following the 2 threads and was just looking at one of my sticks I cleaned up and was wondering if it came off. Thought it just looked dirty.
I'd be interested in a couple of the sticks. A spare Super Punch-Out and I'm interested in the larger ball top version for a Playchoice. Not sure if I'd pick it up at launch as my list of things needed from you is rather long.
If necessary, I'm willing to donate my SPO stick for measurements. PM if interested.
-
What holds the clear (which usually ends up yellowed) plastic shaft collar in place anyway? Just friction?
-
What holds the clear (which usually ends up yellowed) plastic shaft collar in place anyway? Just friction?
Yes it's just pressed on and after years hardens and turns yellow.
- Mike -
-
Count me in!
-
Me too (if the price ain't crazy, and knowing Mike, it won't be) for the short shaft. ( i have a top router nintendo stick that was originally on a metal CPO.
-
What holds the clear (which usually ends up yellowed) plastic shaft collar in place anyway? Just friction?
Yes it's just pressed on and after years hardens and turns yellow.
- Mike -
Are they originally soft, like rubber?
-
Are they originally soft, like rubber?
I believe so.
-
What's the current status and ETA of this?
Thanks,
Rick
-
I'd be in for one as well.
-
Finally, we have all the pieces in stock and are shipping the TKG-23-50 reproduction joysticks. You can order them online here:
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TKG-23-50 (https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TKG-23-50)
Let me know if you have any questions or comments!
Best,
- Mike -
PS. We have the springs, bushings and other parts available also. So if you are rebuilding your stick, we have the parts to rebuild it.