Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: muffin man on February 24, 2008, 01:46:22 am
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Im attaching vinyl to he side of my cabinet and i just removed the laminate that was previoiusly on it
now i was wondering can i just leave the glue residue on the cabinet or do i have to remove it in order put the vinly on? and how do i remove the glue i tried scrapping it nothing happened :/
lmk please
GOT THE OTHER QUESTIOSN ANSWERD :D
i recently got this cab and it came with wood laminate on the sides i want to make the sides black so i was wondering what are my options? can i paint over it? or attach a black layer of laminate on it?
it also came with this cut on the corner how can i make it original cut and shape as the ohter size?
thanks heres som epics
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/musworks/IMG_0457.jpg)
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/musworks/IMG_0458.jpg)
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/musworks/IMG_0459.jpg)
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/musworks/IMG_0461.jpg)
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For that corner with missing wood, I'd cut a strip of posterboard, or thin flexible cardboard (cereal box even) the width of the t-molding slot, and brad nail it temporarily over the gap to create the curve you want the final wood to look like. Now take small piece of wood, cover it with wax paper, and clamp it to one of the sides of your cab where the wood is missing. At this point, you have a makeshift tray.
Get yourself some bondo for 20$ at an autozone, or other car repair store, and fill the tray with bondo. That's a pretty big gap, so you're likely not going to be able to do it all in one sitting. The bondo will take some time to dry. I'd probably give it at least half a day to cure, though the outside will definately appear to be dry earlier. Don't worry about making it smooth when filling, just worry about filling your tray completely. Repeat until the gap is filled.
When it's filled, remove your makeshift tray, and sand smooth. At this point, there will still be some air bubble holes and other imperfections in your fill, caused by settling of the bondo, or maybe it seaped through the tray. No worries, now you don't really need your tray. You can slap additonal bondo on the low areas; make it higher then necessary and sand down. Repeat adding bondo/sanding down process until you have a new corner.
I've repaired areas of my cab with this technique, and it worked well. Search these forums for Bondo corner repair, and I'm sure you'll find pics of the process I described above. When you purchase your bondo and sandpaper, do grab the most expensive dust mask you can get.
-csa
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thanks very much that is very helpful ill be gettin some bondo today
update i took off the side laminate and i see the original stern design on it.
im thinking of going vinyl i really do hate painting :/
can i just attach vinyl on top of the left over glue? or do i have to sand all down?
thks
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i recently got this cab and it came with wood laminate on the sides i want to make the sides black so i was wondering what are my options? can i paint over it? or attach a black layer of laminate on it?
You can paint your current laminate or laminate directly over what you have. In either case, you should sand the laminate to allow your paint or adhesive to stick to it. Companies make a product called "backer board" which is simply a sanded laminate. You can paint over it with a good primer then use whatever finish you want.
You will have a trade off with either way you do it. Painting is cheaper but more labor intensive, Laminating is more expensive and adds thickness, but is a faster process. If you are keeping the edge molding, I would suggest painting since adding laminate adds thickness. If you are getting new, then laminating would be preferred. The molding comes oversized, so that you can cover your new laminate edge.
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i recently got this cab and it came with wood laminate on the sides i want to make the sides black so i was wondering what are my options? can i paint over it? or attach a black layer of laminate on it?
I WANT A STERN CABINET TOO. :-( Shame someone laminated it!
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i recently got this cab and it came with wood laminate on the sides i want to make the sides black so i was wondering what are my options? can i paint over it? or attach a black layer of laminate on it?
I WANT A STERN CABINET TOO. :-( Shame someone laminated it!
i know :/ i took of the laminate today the stern art was perfect now it has all glue and stuff
OOOOOOOOO!!! i also did the bondo tactic came out perfectlly :D thks guys
im gonna paint the middle interior panels and then im goin for vinyl on sides
how does this soudn?
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If you've removed the laminate, the glue will probably be fairly rough. Whichever way you want to go, sand it smooth. Once it's smooth, you can go in three directions. Relaminate it black, paint it black or install vinyl.
If you want to do vinyl, seal your sides with a coat of primer, let it sit a couple of days to off-gas, and then lightly sand it smooth with 220-grit or higher. Once it's sanded, you should be able to install the vinyl smoothly. Be careful about air bubbles and tiny specks of dust. They show up like boulders under the vinyl.
Hope it turns out well!
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If you've removed the laminate, the glue will probably be fairly rough. Whichever way you want to go, sand it smooth. Once it's smooth, you can go in three directions. Relaminate it black, paint it black or install vinyl.
If you want to do vinyl, seal your sides with a coat of primer, let it sit a couple of days to off-gas, and then lightly sand it smooth with 220-grit or higher. Once it's sanded, you should be able to install the vinyl smoothly. Be careful about air bubbles and tiny specks of dust. They show up like boulders under the vinyl.
Of the three techniques you mention, I think vinyl is probably the most difficult to execute! As you say, any imperfections in the surface (or the application of the vinyl) tend to stick out like a sore thumb. I would think that black laminate or black paint would be easier to make look good...
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I've used the Happ Controls vinyl "d" :
http://www.happcontrols.com/vending/acesor/49057200.htm
It looks great but you have make sure the surface is CLEAN or you will be able to see the bumps. Also use a plastic scraper to keep air bubbles out as you apply it.
Even with that you will still get small air bubbles but you can fix those with a pin to get the air out.
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Of the three techniques you mention, I think vinyl is probably the most difficult to execute! As you say, any imperfections in the surface (or the application of the vinyl) tend to stick out like a sore thumb. I would think that black laminate or black paint would be easier to make look good...
You're right, but he seems to want to do the vinyl. If he's going for it and asking advice, may as well advise him about the pitfalls in the hopes that he can avoid them. If he can afford a printed vinyl, he can get a really cool effect without additional stickers. Personally, I would relaminate, but I don't know his circumstances. Maybe he has a line on cheap or free vinyl in which case a person on a budget would be inclined to do such rather than spend money on laminate.
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Of the three techniques you mention, I think vinyl is probably the most difficult to execute! As you say, any imperfections in the surface (or the application of the vinyl) tend to stick out like a sore thumb. I would think that black laminate or black paint would be easier to make look good...
You're right, but he seems to want to do the vinyl. If he's going for it and asking advice, may as well advise him about the pitfalls in the hopes that he can avoid them. If he can afford a printed vinyl, he can get a really cool effect without additional stickers. Personally, I would relaminate, but I don't know his circumstances. Maybe he has a line on cheap or free vinyl in which case a person on a budget would be inclined to do such rather than spend money on laminate.
ya this is suppose to be a cheap project nothign to fancy and what not besides im 16 anythign works with me :D
so yea anyone could help me out how do i remove the glue?
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so yea anyone could help me out how do i remove the glue?
I've heard of people using goo-gone, which you can find at Walmart in the cleaner isle, or at a place like Home Depot etc. You problaby should gently scrape off ass much excess as you can w/o harming the wood, then try that stuff. My experience trying to get it to loosen velcro off a windshield tells me that it will probably take you a pretty long time and a couple of applications.
On my cab, I took an orbital sander of the entire cab and figured it was faster. If you're laminating over top, and not trying to save the artwork, this might be the route for you. I have no experience myself using the said chemical approach, so don't necessarily listen to me ;)
-csa
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A belt sander removes everything.
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I've heard of people using goo-gone, which you can find at Walmart in the cleaner isle, or at a place like Home Depot etc.
Goo Gone is great at removing adhesive! Just remember, though, that MDF soaks up moisture like a sponge, swells, and then never looks the same again. While I haven't tried using Goo Gone on MDF, I suspect you'd want to work quickly and make sure that none of it soaks into the wood!
On my cab, I took an orbital sander of the entire cab and figured it was faster.
This is probably what I'd do. I'd be worried that the glue would gum up the sandpaper quickly. Maybe those new Abranet sanding discs (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5922&mode=details) from Mirka would work better... They're a bit pricey to start with but are supposed to work very well, though I haven't tried them yet. They seem similar to drywall screens, which work much better than sandpaper... if you're sanding joint compound.