Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: MK3FAN on January 18, 2008, 12:45:09 am
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Got a new monitor for my arkanoid machine and when I plug it in, it does nothing. No tube glow, no hum from the caps charging up..nothing. I plug the old one back in and it turns on just fine. The new monitor is getting power and there are multiple resistors that get scortchingly hot within seconds. Anyone have a possible solution to this problem? This is all I am waiting for to finish up my restoration. The monitor is a Wells Garnder 7000 series.
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something is drawing alot of current without blowing the fuse,could be loads of things but flyback transformer and hdt springs to mind
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a horiz output issue "should" blow a fuse.
have u tried it with only the AC applied ?
if ok, then possible ground loop issue - possible leaky (bad) isolation xformer
qrz
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isolation xformer
Does your cabinet have an isolation transformer ?
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Yes. The machine had the original Q*bert monitor in it from over 20 years ago utilizing old, but effective transformer. If the transformer is bad, would that really cause the monitor to not turn on? There is a tag on the power cord of the 20+ year old monitor that says "Isolation Transformer MUST be used." The new monitor that I am having problems with has the same tag, so I can only assume that the cab contains on old, but effective transformer.
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You say this monitor is "new"...... but K7000's have been around a long time.
Is this one actually "brand new" or was it as least known to be working before you got it.
(just trying to clarify)
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There is a tag on the power cord of the 20+ year old monitor that says "Isolation Transformer MUST be used." The new monitor that I am having problems with has the same tag, so I can only assume that the cab contains on old, but effective transformer.
A new monitor would not have this tag as all new monitors manufactured by wells gardner do not require an isolation transformer anymore.
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When I say "new," I mean it has a brand new flyback transformer, Horizontal coil, and neck board. These items ARE brand new, but the tube and the rest of the chassis are the original 7000 series from 20+ years ago. It IS possible that these items were installed incorrectly or were damaged during shipment, but the monitor was working prior to shipment. I gave the monitor to a friend I work woth who moonlights as a TV/CRT repair man. Runs his own business after normal work hours. He is going to fix my problem pro bono because we are friends, but that's if he can.
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Problem is fixed. Turns out that the Horizontal Drive was not working because of a burned up transistor. Replaced the transistor and the monitor works just fine now. Thanks for everyone's input.
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I have the worst luck. About 10 minutes ago, I was playng the game, then all of a sudden the screen went all white for a minute or so, then shut off. I tried rebooting power, but it was no use. This time the fuse blew. I replaced it and the new one blew immediately, followed by a 3A, and a 6A. Any clues on what is wrong now?
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try desoldering the positor from the degauss circuit and then try it
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Check here. I'm sure there are dozens more posts on this forum because this is common with these monitors.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=75710.0
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Thanks!
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Dude, if a fuse is blowing, the worst thing you can do is start upping the amperage on replacement fuses. If a fuse blows, it blows for a reason. Upping the amperage will allow more damage to come to the monitor because you're allowing more damaging current to get to components before it blows. Never, never up the rating of a fuse.