Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Buy/Sell/Trade - non-retail => Topic started by: Franco on January 15, 2008, 06:59:31 pm
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I have some hollow joystick shafts for sale suitable for mounting an LED in or adding a top fire button to a joystick.
The shafts I have at present are for Sanwa JLWs and have a 6mm thread which screws into the Seimitsu LB-39 ball tops. The ball tops can be purchased from arcadeshop.de (http://www.arcadeshop.de/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=LB-39&osCsid=969beca264e7c80eb298868b4cfda2a1&x=0&y=0) or from Lizardlick (http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/joysticks.shtml) (scroll to the bottom of the page).
The shafts are available as a plain hollow shaft or ready wired with a modified LED and wire and suitable resistors for 5v or 12v applications. I can wire the shafts to your needs eg in series/parallel from a 5/12v source, singularly for use with a LED wiz or similar or I can also daisy chain the cathodes etc for use with an LED Wiz.
The following two photos are of the single hollow shaft and of a shaft with a shaft with a mounted modified LED and ready wired with a resistor:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/SingleShaft.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/WiredShaft.jpg)
I can currently wire the shafts with blue, red and green LEDs. I have ordered some yellow LEDs for a customer and they will be arriving shortly so they will also be available. If you require a different colour I will also try to source some for you.
The following photos are of blue, red and green (with the lights on and off) 8000MCD LEDs mounted with a clear LB-39 ball top. Unfortunately my camera is a bit crap and doesn't do the colours justice. You can see every bubble in the balls and they really do look beautiful (if I do say so myself.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Blue.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Red.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/bREEN.jpg)
The pictures look nice but the blue is really a lovely medium intense blue, the green is really emerald and the red is lovely too.
Pricing is as follows. The shafts on there own are $10/£5 each. If you require them wired with an LED and resistor add $5/£2.50 to each shaft. Extra wiring/resistors may be slightly more expensive depending on complexity.
If you want a cheaper option you can just buy the shafts and wire them yourself. You can use my guide here (http://www.retroblast.com/Articles/DIY-LED-Joysticks.php) to help you if you need it.
At the moment I can get the shafts for Sanwa JLWs, JTFs and Ultimarc T-Sticks as I can take the dimensions of the sticks that I have but I should be able to make them for most other joysticks within reason, even the Ultimarc 360s ;)
I can also supply the shafts in stainless steel or brass.
If you are intrested feel free to post her, PM or email me.
I will also be adding some more products soon including stainless steel (or brass) dustwashers (in some nice designs), stainless steel button bezels, (either single button or 3/6 button array), some very nice fan/speaker guards amongst other projects in the pipeline.
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I can vouch for these. Francos hollow shafts are better and stronger than the originals!!
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I'm very tempted. I bought some replacement T-Stik joystick sleeves from Franco recently and the workmanship was outstanding.
However, I notice his BYOAC account has been deactivated. Does anyone know why?
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that is weird, he only posted this yesterday.
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Thanks for the seal of approval guys!
Yeah im here still, my account got deleted somehow :( :dunno
Aint got a clue how though, Saint said that it must have happened my end but I dont know how it could have unless my account got hacked ???
Oh well, worse things have happened, its just annoying to lose my Trade Count and I also had a few hundered PMs saved with some valuable information in them :-[
Anyway, moan over. Just thought I would say these are still availiable. I received the yellow LEDs today and ill get a photo up as soon as I have one wired.
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Great work! Any chance you could make up a few of these for the old style Midway 49-way joysticks? That would be awesome!
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You freakin' ROCK!!! :notworthy:
These are my next toy of choice.
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Great work! Any chance you could make up a few of these for the old style Midway 49-way joysticks? That would be awesome!
Hi elsie. Im not sure what the 49 way joysticks look like. Is this one of them?
(http://www.markoates.com/rotary/Images/Step2.jpg)
Looks like it would be no problem. If you can get me some (accurate) dimensions I can write a program for them. If you cannot get accurate dimensions you could always send the stick to me (if you are willing to be without it for a couple of days) and I could send it back with the turned shafts.
You freakin' ROCK!!! :notworthy:
These are my next toy of choice.
Your too kind :) Feel free to contact me when your ready.
By the way if anyone wants any other colour LEDs then let me know and I can get them in ready. i forgot to take the yellow LEDs with me to work today so I will have to wire one up tomorrow and ill get a picture up then.
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Great work! Any chance you could make up a few of these for the old style Midway 49-way joysticks? That would be awesome!
Hi elsie. Im not sure what the 49 way joysticks look like. Is this one of them?
(http://www.markoates.com/rotary/Images/Step2.jpg)
Looks like it would be no problem. If you can get me some (accurate) dimensions I can write a program for them. If you cannot get accurate dimensions you could always send the stick to me (if you are willing to be without it for a couple of days) and I could send it back with the turned shafts.
That is definitely a 49-way, but I'm not expert enough to tell if it is an old Midway 49-way or one of the newer Happ 49-way. I'd be happy to send the stick to you. Do you need the whole thing, or just the shaft?
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Just the shaft will be fine. Ill PM you my address.
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PM Sent! Looking forward to getting my Daughter's cab pimped with some nice pink lit sticks!
Toonces
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Franco,
Can you add the Sanwa JLF and Seimitsu LS-32 shafts to your list? These would be great additions to my custom sticks. It might be an idea to add white LEDs to the list then they can be put in any of the bubbletops available.
TTFN
Kaytrim
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Toonces, PM replied.
Kaytrim, the JLFs are already available. I should be able to do the Seimitsu's if you can provide me with the dimensions, Im sure a master builder of your caliber can lay your hands on a digital vernier ;)
Yeah I can get some whites if people want them, will you be wanting some in the future? If so Ill order some.
(EDIT: I see what you are saying about the whites, good idea. Sorry was me being dumb)
I got the yellow wired up tonight. Once again my camera doesn't do the colour justice. I cant believe how well those ball tops refract the light :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Yellow.jpg)
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These really look awesome Franco, I'm still planning on getting them, but money priorities are crazy right now.
DB
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No problem Daniel, just give me a shout when you are after some :)
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Random question, do you have any pictures of your Sanwa modified ones in Batton handles as opposed to Ball tops?
Edit: Just looked around and can't find clear bat's anywhere. Know of any places that can do em as well?
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Hi Franco, I don't see it in your howto posts but the pink balltops I just got from lizardlick have a solid cap for the threads. No light can get through to the ball at all. Did you have to drill the balltop so the light could get through? If so, what size bit would you use to avoid damaging the threads?
Thanks!
Toonces
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Random question, do you have any pictures of your Sanwa modified ones in Batton handles as opposed to Ball tops?
Edit: Just looked around and can't find clear bat's anywhere. Know of any places that can do em as well?
Hi Thy, I dont know of anyone that carries them im afraid.
I would make you some but I did look into buying some polycarbonate to machine the ball tops out of before I found the bubble ball tops and it would just be too expensive for small runs.
Hi Franco, I don't see it in your howto posts but the pink balltops I just got from lizardlick have a solid cap for the threads. No light can get through to the ball at all. Did you have to drill the balltop so the light could get through? If so, what size bit would you use to avoid damaging the threads?
Thanks!
Toonces
Thats strange Toonces, the ones I bought had an open ended nut in them:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Ballhole.jpg)
I did buy mine from arcadeshop.de but I thought they would all be the same.
As for drill size a 5mm or 3/16" will be fine.
I've replied to your PM too.
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Thanks Franco! I'll give the 5mm bit a try and see if I can get some before and after pics. It's probably a random thing based on whatever the balltop manufacturer has on hand when they cast the balltops.
Toonces
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PM Sent to you Franco :)
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I don't suppose you could do a hollow shaft for a U360, with a small cutout at the bottom to allow for a wire to exit, and still mount the magnet on the bottom flush?
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Yeah no problem, I had already thought about that one.
Can you get me the dimensions for it?
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Franco, are you still making these hollow shafts with light-up options? If so, what line of sticks are you able to make them for?
Building a new CP and deciding what sticks to go with that can be given hollows.
Thanks.
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Do you do Perfect 360's and Super Joysticks? That would be awesome since my source for lighted joysticks is gone. I dare not say the name ::)
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Hey guys.
Im sorry but im not going to be able to offer the shafts for the foreseeable future. We have just got too much work on at the moment for me to fit them in. I cant even get them on the machine in lunchtimes etc as the shafts require some special tooling which takes a while to set up.
I have got a few shafts for the JLWs and JLFs left, Ill have to go check.
Sorry guys, I would love to say I can do them but I dont want to promise something that I cant provide. If you want to PM me your requests I can try and squeeze them in if and when I get chance but I cant promise anything.
Im going to make some stainless dust washers up soon though on another machine tool if anyone is interested.
I currently have a program for the washers for the JLW and JLFs but I can do them for any size washer, plain or grooved, all the same price - $5 each.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/closeup.jpg)
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Franco, If you have any JLW shafts left, please let me know. I need 5 of them. Thanks
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Do you have any left, I need one also.
Thanks
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You guys have PM ;)
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Franco, are you still selling these? I PMed you some questions.
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Sorry massive88, I must have missed your PM.
I do have a few for the JLF left. I'm not planning on making any more standard hollow ones though as I'm working on some tangle free versions.
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Your guide in the OP is broken, is there another copy if it somewhere?
What Id like to do is get a color that closest matches the orange color in the Texas text part of my graphic here (http://omgbbq.com/hirez/tfight360_files/image002.jpg).
Since you have seen these in action, do you think it would be best with a white top and orange LED? White top and Red LED? or Orange top and white LED?
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Try [this link (http://www.retroblast.com/20071127419/Articles/DIY-LED-Joysticks.php)].
Its hard to say which single LED/balltop would match your colour scheme as haven't personally tried any orange LEDs/ball tops.
You could try an orange LED with a clear ball top but I dont think it would be too similar to the colour in your font. Then again colours differ from monitor to monitor, LED to LED etc. The only real way to get a close match would be to use an RGB LED.
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I have no clue on how to use an RGB LED to match colors. I guess I could try for an orange LED in the white ball, and if it turns out too wrong, I could switch to a white LED.
I guess since I would be potentially switching out LEDs, and since you dont have oranges handy, Ill just go for a shaft from you. Should we take this to PMs? Hit me up please.
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Hi there.
I tried those orange LEDs and the color's really great. Unfortunately I cannot make a picture that shows how it looks in reality...it's always too bright. But it definitely doesn't look like the color in "Texas". IMHO this is more red than orange. You could reduce the voltage (or increase the resistor) to make the LED shine "darker".
RGB-LEDs might be a solution but there are only 5mm-LEDs available and I'm afraid they might not fit in to the balltop nor do the 4 connectors go into the hollow shaft.
Or you could use those orange balltops
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Seimitsu-Joysticks-Seimitsu-Ball-LB-39-klar-orange_614.html
and orange LEDs......that should bring the best result.
I have both at home and could give it a try if you like.
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Yeah thats why I was thinking the red LED might be a closer match than the orange. Maybe a red LED in an orange ball?
If your willing to check it out that would be great. Im really looking for whatever can give kind of a dark orange (like used here (http://www.texassports.com/))as opposed to a bright orange (used here (http://www.utsports.com/fans/wallpaper.html)). The matching doesnt have to be perfect.
Perhaps you are right that the orange ball with the orange LED would work better.
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OK, I will try it: orange ball - orange LED / orange ball - red LED.But keep in mind: if the balltops are not lit, the will still be orange ;)
But, as I said, I didn't find a way to take pictures that come close to reality :(
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OK, I will try it: orange ball - orange LED / orange ball - red LED.But keep in mind: if the balltops are not lit, the will still be orange ;)
But, as I said, I didn't find a way to take pictures that come close to reality :(
I appreciate your help and opinion, and will take it on faith that your perception of reality is accurate, as it is all I have to go on =D
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nor do the 4 connectors go into the hollow shaft.
[cough]
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/ledcomponents.jpg)
[/cough]
;)
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Oh, the socket works? :)
Great...but there's still the problem with the 5mm-LED reaching into the balltop.....I just tried it.....the 4 connectors of the RGB-LED are too big and cannot be set into the hollow shaft (4 in a row, if you get a LED where they are arranged in a rectangle, it might work).
OK, massive88: I think you would be satisfied with the orange balltops and red LEDs. I tried to make photos that let you see the difference but again the result is very poor :(
1) orange LED with orange balltop
2) red LED with orange balltop (a dark reddish orange)
3) red LED with clear balltop
I think (hope) you can see the difference. In real it is far more different than in the pictures.
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Heh, yeah its pretty tough to tell from those pics. But it makes sense to me that the red LED + orange ball would work the best. I suppose that is what I will go with.
Thank you for your help!
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Oh, the socket works? :)
Great...but there's still the problem with the 5mm-LED reaching into the balltop.....I just tried it.....the 4 connectors of the RGB-LED are too big and cannot be set into the hollow shaft (4 in a row, if you get a LED where they are arranged in a rectangle, it might work).
It sure does :)
I got the hardware through this week (thanks Ben!) and I had a good few hours last night developing a shaft that would fit inside the standard JLW/U360 but still perform the same. If I had just been making it for the JLW it would have been easy as you could just hang the socket out the back but with the U360 you have to keep the hangout to a minimum to maintain the distance between the magnet and hall affect sensor whilst also still getting a socket (the same size as the original shaft), inside the shaft and still maintaining spring travel etc.
I don't know how you got your shafts machined but I added a 30 degree chamfer (to the thread OD) to the shafts I made to give more room for LED mounting. I'm pretty damn sure I will be able to slightly bend the wires into a 2x2 array , solder to them, heat shrink them and still fit them inside a ball and down the shaft. It will be a tight fit and some slight drilling of the bubble tops may be required (which is necessary with the never batches of closed end insert nuts ) but it will be done.
Hell, personally I only need to get two wires in a JLW but its more fun trying to get four in a U360. :)
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My shafts have a simple (hollow) thread on top. I don't do them on my own but have to order them. If I make changes to the shafts I'll have to pay more and people won't buy them if they are more expensive.
I'm looking forward to your solution :applaud:
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Ok, this is the plan. For reference, below is a 3/4 section model of the standard Sanwa JLW/U360 shaft assembly:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Sanwashaftsection.png)
Ive coloured the components for clarity. The red part is the shaft, the yellow part is the steel elbow joint, the blue part is the upper spring keeper, the black section is the spring, the green section is the lower spring keeper/micro switch actuator and the pink part is the e-clip.
My solution has gone through quite a few changes and is likely to change very slightly again (dimensionally) but this is how the shaft assembly should look.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Sanwareplacementshaftsection1.png)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/Sanwareplacementshaftsection3d3.png)
The 4-pole sockets I'm using require a mounting hole of 9mm. The standard shaft is 9mm so I had to enlarge the lower shaft to 12mm so it can house the socket. The only problem with this was that the shaft is normally inserted into the joystick base from the top and has to pass through the 9.05mm elbow joint and so the larger 12mm section would not pass though. I solved this by moving the e-clip to the left of the elbow joint so the shaft can be inserted from the bottom.
I have also taken the upper spring keeper and lower spring keeper/micro switch actuator out of the equation to allow the socket to be housed. Ive built the lower spring keeper/micro switch actuator into the shaft. It does not need the hood as its only in place on the standard shaft to keep the spring central as the standard shaft diameter is much smaller than the 'bore' of the spring. The increased lower shaft diameter will now keep the spring central.
The upper spring keeper will be replaced with a more basic nylon washer which will allow extra room for the socket and also for extra wiring clearance. Once again, it does not need the extra section of the standard spring keeper as the increased shaft diameter will keep it central.
Well that's the plan anyway. I'm off on holiday (vacation :P) for two weeks in a couple of days so I'm going to get a prototype made when I get back.
EDIT: Added another view if it helps to visualise it.
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Franco,
I have PMed and emailed you about buying a JLF shaft with red LED and gotten no response?
Luigi, if Franco falls through do you ship to the US? Could you quote me a price to ship a JLF shaft with red LED for 5v source wired up and ready to go to Dallas TX?
Thanks.
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Hey massive88. I emailed you this morning. I cant do 5v red with the resistors I have, Im sure Luigi can sort you out tho.
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Hey massive88. I emailed you this morning. I cant do 5v red with the resistors I have, Im sure Luigi can sort you out tho.
Which email address did you send it to? I have a yahoo account listed here, and I emailed you from my google account.
Id be willing to give it a shot wiring it myself (more gratifying in the end anyway). Do you have the LED and shaft that you would sell/ship? Or just the shaft?
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I emailed you back to your google address.
I have RGB LEDs and resistors for 12v. I cut the cathodes off that I dont need so Im left with a red, green or blue cathode and the ground anode.
I can quite happily send you a shaft + pre cut red RGB LED and resistor but I think you want a to power it from a 5v source do you not? I would pick you up a resistor suitable for 5v but im not going to get chance before I go on holiday.
If you want a 5v solution im sure Luigi will be happy to help you out.
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Franco,
Are you planning on attaching the magnet to the jack like Bender did?
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Yup, thats the plan. I made the first prototype, it just needs some slight adjustment.
Im hoping to take another look in a couple of weeks when I have some other projects out of the way.
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Hey Franco,
I quit fiddling arround to find a way for a lighted ball top since you told you were working on one.
However i recently bought a restrictor plate and this is great!
Do you have a restrictor plate? As i am wondering if i can leave it on when you are done and eventually make me a few :D
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Yup, thats the plan. I made the first prototype, it just needs some slight adjustment.
Im hoping to take another look in a couple of weeks when I have some other projects out of the way.
How is it attached? Glue?
Do you see any issues with accuracy or centering using this method?
Keep up the good work. I don't have a desire to light one of these but it would give me a basis to make a cool Tron-Cocktailesque type trigger stick. 8)
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Are these still for sale? Id like to purchase one of the hollowed shafts.
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Look up FrancoB.
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PM sent!
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These are no longer availibale.
Kaytrim sells modded shafts, his website is http://www.kaytrimskustoms.com/Shop/