Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: LeedsFan on January 10, 2008, 10:54:42 am
-
I'm using U360 joysticks with standard shafts in my panel and I'm gonna be mounting them from underneath. The entire panel (including plexi) will be 15mm thick and I don't intend to route out the underside. I've done a test mount on a pice of scrap 15mm shelf board and the joystick feels really comfortable. I can hold the ball top in a "pen" fashion and I just know the classic games will rock. The shaft pokes up 21mm through the panel (not including threaded part).
But will I encounter any hindrance with the stick as stubby as this? Will fighting games (or any other games for that matter) be at a disadvantage? I'm thinking that with the stubby stick and getting the 7 buttons as close as possible I will finally be able to be comfortable with a proper Defender button layout. (As in button 7 on Player one side being used for reverse and then using player 2 buttons for the rest.)
Out of interest (just for accuracy) how close was the reverse button to the shaft on an original Defender/Stargate cab?
-
Not routing the underside of a (nearly) 3/4" panel will look weird, and may cause problems with the length of the 'throw'. Here is a diagram to demonstrate:
(http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/9153/36945611sb2.jpg)
It's about leverage - the upper part of the stick has further to travel than the lower, and given the analogue nature of the 360, full travel is important. routing out the underside gives the base of the shaft more travel space, plus saves people who don't grip a joystick like you from smashing their knuckles on the control panel surface!
-
i've got a pair of happ competition joys that are undermounted with no routing. for me, it's the perfect height, and with a 1 1/8" hole drilled, there is no disruption whatsoever of the throw.
-
i've got a pair of happ competition joys that are undermounted with no routing. for me, it's the perfect height, and with a 1 1/8" hole drilled, there is no disruption whatsoever of the throw.
Ditto here, but with J-sticks. Maybe I'm wrong for not routing, but I like it. Maybe I just got used to it.
-pmc
-
My main concern is playing games other than classics. I'm not a huge fighter fan but I will be trying them out for sure. Just didn't want to find out later on that I'd screwed up by mounting like this.
I'm definitely making sure I'm getting full throw all round. With no restrictor plate fitted on a 15mm panel I've calculated I need 22.5mm hole to get full travel. Next size up in my hole cutting set is 1 inch so that will be ample... specially as I will be having a restrictor fitted. (Gotta cover myself for no restrictor though in case I ever remove it)
-
And of course, I failed to mention that these joysticks were installed on 3/4" plywood.
-
Too stubby is the Taito Crazy Climber sticks.
They were basically a ball that stuck out of the CP.
If you gripped the ball over the top, like you would any other game, you'd end up with calluses on your knuckles.
You should be fine routed, or not.
I've done both, and been fine.
It's more a choice of feel than anything.
I personally hate it when there's too much stick above the CP.
-
And of course, I failed to mention that these joysticks were installed on 3/4" plywood.
Ditto here, but MDF. I'll eventually add lexan which will change the effective stick height. I figure I'll considering routing at that point if I'm unhappy.
-pmc