Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: BORIStheBLADE on January 03, 2008, 07:21:49 pm
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Just curious what you guys think is the way to go to have your CP made out of?
Do you guys have plexi covering your CP overlay?
What is the best thing to make a CP overlay out of?
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I plan to build mine out of 5/8" MDF with a sheet of plexi/lexan over top.
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My CPO was printed at mamemarquees on toughtear stuff, no plexi for me.
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My CPO was printed at mamemarquees on toughtear stuff, no plexi for me.
I intend to get my CP overlay printed by Mamemarquees to. But plexi over the top still adds a touch of gloss to the final finish.
Only thing I never really grasped was the difference between Plexi (Perspex) and Lexan. I hear Lexan is tougher and unbreakable but I haven't heard any comments about how it is to work with for drilling holes etc. in comparison to Plexi.
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I don't know much bout lexan, but I know its strong and can cause cancer. if you scratch plexi, it can get ugly...
just food for thought...
Look em both up in wikipedia
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Only thing I never really grasped was the difference between Plexi (Perspex) and Lexan. I hear Lexan is tougher and unbreakable but I haven't heard any comments about how it is to work with for drilling holes etc. in comparison to Plexi.
Lexan isn't unbreakable.... But it is more scratch resistant than perspex. It cuts better than perspex and is more shatter resistant. Perspex has a habit of cracking when you put drills through it. Go for the Lexan if you can.
Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
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Only thing I never really grasped was the difference between Plexi (Perspex) and Lexan. I hear Lexan is tougher and unbreakable but I haven't heard any comments about how it is to work with for drilling holes etc. in comparison to Plexi.
Lexan isn't unbreakable.... But it is more scratch resistant than perspex. It cuts better than perspex and is more shatter resistant. Perspex has a habit of cracking when you put drills through it. Go for the Lexan if you can.
Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
Rats! And I just ordered my Perspex cover yesterday (cut to size). It cost me £14 but they will send me the offcuts from the full size sheet to practice with. So I hope it goes well.
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This toughtear stuff, how durable is it? Can anyone with this stuff comment?
I like the idea of Lexan over a CP overlay.
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This toughtear stuff, how durable is it? Can anyone with this stuff comment?
I like the idea of Lexan over a CP overlay.
It's very durable. I had a CP overlay done by Mamemarquees before for my cab but I didn't put plexi over the top.
Three years later it's still in great condition. No tears or scratches. It certainly doesn't "wear" with your hands rubbing on it or anything like that. I'm still gonna use plexi this time round just to get the glossy finish to the panel.
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I made a prototype control panel and covered it with a print I made myself laminated with transparent "book cover material". It's been in use for a few years now and it still looks great.
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Another vote for MDF (3/4" on mine) with Plexi/Lexan for the top.
I was hoping to use Lexan but Home Depot didn't have a sheet that was anywhere near the right size. One that was a touch too small, and one that was 3x the size i needed and 60 something bucks. So I got a $13 piece of plexi and it worked out great.
Go for lexan if you can though, its a better material
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I'm having really good luck w/ black pica vinyl covering. The stuff is durable and very easy to clean.
~telengard
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Actually Plexiglass (acrylic) is more scratch resistent than Lexan (polycarbonate). The hardness of plexi makes it harder to work with though. It cracks easily when you try to drill holes in it.
Personally I prefer a matte laminated CPO print, but if you must go for some extra cover then plexi is the best material
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If that stuff from mamemarquees is that good then I might just go with that stuff.
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I've used both. I prefer Mamemarquees without any plexi.
Plexi requires more maintenance. On the machines I installed it on, I need to remove it to clean the dust particles from underneath.
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I used paint...
When the paint gets worn out, I'll use either plexi or another material. Only reason I don't do it now is I don't feel like redoing all the controls :P
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I made a prototype control panel and covered it with a print I made myself laminated with transparent "book cover material". It's been in use for a few years now and it still looks great.
Thats a really good idea. Where do you get this stuff? Office store or something? I like the in-expensive solutions!
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I don't know much bout lexan, but I know its strong and can cause cancer. if you scratch plexi, it can get ugly...
just food for thought...
Look em both up in wikipedia
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You live in California, don't you?
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I don't know much bout lexan, but I know its strong and can cause cancer. if you scratch plexi, it can get ugly...
just food for thought...
Look em both up in wikipedia
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You live in California, don't you?
:laugh2:
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I made a prototype control panel and covered it with a print I made myself laminated with transparent "book cover material". It's been in use for a few years now and it still looks great.
Thats a really good idea. Where do you get this stuff? Office store or something? I like the in-expensive solutions!
I bought it at an office supply store yes. A few euro for a roll. I figured since it was designed to protect books it would work for a CP too (and indeed it does).
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Most original arcade machine control panel overlays were made from .015" or .020" clear Lexan, with the artwork reverse-printed onto the underside of it, so the ink would not wear away from wear & tear on the exposed surface.
CPO's like this last quite a while in commercial arcade settings, and are pretty much the industry standard for CPO's on any sort of industrial machinery. You'd likely never wear one out from home use.